technical questions: auto-choke, vacuum line and cam chain tensioner.

[damianomigani]

hello

i have a 2007 FJR1300A 65k miles. it runs great but there are few minor things that bother me and i want to see if any of you have advice on how to sort them out.

1. when new the bike used to start at first press of start button, sit at higher revs for a while and then adjust to idle. Now the auto choke seems to be no longer working. when cold i need to keep the throttle open a little bit for 30 seconds of so and then it holds idle revving. if i don't do that it stalls after a little while. when it's warm it starts and idles straight away. i've done the valves and throttle body sync around 12000 miles ago. what do you think it is and how can i fix it?

2. i want to use a product called seafoam to clean up engine/seals and other internal parts. it can be put in the fuel tank, in the motor oil 100 miles before changing the oil and a neat way is to put it into the vacuum line so that it goes straight to the combustion chamber (where spark plugs are), a whole white smoke comes out and then is good to go. where is the vacuum line? anyone has done this? is it necessary/recommended?

3. at 65k miles sounds like a good idea to check and change the cam chain tensioner. is it a hard job? is it necessary? how would i know if it needs to be changed? does it make a weird/unusual noise? to be honest it sounds great as usual, so i don't know if i need to check on it.

That's it!

i would appreciate any info/advice!!

damiano

 

[rbentnail]

Wow! As my wife says, "you're just full of it today, ain'tcha?"

#1 & 2, can't help. #3, not too bad to replace but I did mine when I had the covers off for a valve clearance check so it was a lot easier. Others here famously disagree but my recommendation is to NOT replace the CCT unless you can check the timing marks on the cam & crank shaft sprockets.

But historically, a loose CCT will begin to sound like marbles in a tin bucket down low on the right. It's easy to check- pull the timing chain cover, there it is. IMHO if you don't hear it then just wait until your next valve check.

 

[Ignacio]

helloi have a 2007 FJR1300A 65k miles. it runs great but there are few minor things that bother me and i want to see if any of you have advice on how to sort them out.

1. when new the bike used to start at first press of start button, sit at higher revs for a while and then adjust to idle..... what do you think it is and how can i fix it?

Hmmmm...did you look at #2 of the New Owners Read This section? I'd bet a $1 it's this case.

2. i want to use a product called seafoam.....anyone has done this?

Google is your Friend.

3. at 65k miles sounds like a good idea to check and change the cam chain tensioner. is it a hard job? is it necessary? how would i know if it needs to be changed? to be honest it sounds great as usual, so i don't know if i need to check on it.

In order of your questions: It's not too bad of a job and been discussed many times before on the forum...again Google is Your Friend; it's necessary if you cam chain tensioner is failing; If you motorcycle is making a weird or unusual noise; & see previous answer.

As for thread title....there is not "choke" on the FJR...auto or otherwise. It's fuel injected with a computer controlling the amount of fuel going to things.

 

[ionbeam]

As for thread title....there is not "choke" on the FJR...auto or otherwise. It's fuel injected with a computer controlling the amount of fuel going to things.

Except for the wax motor on the bottom side of the fuel injection rail which operates linkages to all 4 intake throttle bodies. The linkages can stick, and there is a screw for high idle speed adjustment (pointed out below).

2. Typically, for car intake cleaning with Seafoam you are advised to use a single hose like the one that connects to the brake booster to suck in the fluid. On the FJR you would have to pull off the throttle body synch caps one at a time, connect a hose to the nipple and run it to a can or non-Styrofoam cup filled with Seafoam, start the engine and let the intake suck in a little Seafoam while using the throttle to keep from stalling the engine. Unlike a car with a large intake plenum with relatively long runners, the FJR's short intake doesn't really have issues except for the throttle plates which you can't get to with Seafoam, you can only get some cleaner on the exhaust valves. Instead, take a look at using Yamaha Ring Free added to your gas.

3. Has been covered.

 

[RaYzerman19]

...........run it to a can or non-Styrofoam cup filled with Seafoam.........

Spoilsport!

 

[Mihalis fjr]

As for thread title....there is not "choke" on the FJR...auto or otherwise. It's fuel injected with a computer controlling the amount of fuel going to things.

Except for the wax motor on the bottom side of the fuel injection rail which operates linkages to all 4 intake throttle bodies. The linkages can stick, and there is a screw for high idle speed adjustment (pointed out below).

2. Typically, for car intake cleaning with Seafoam you are advised to use a single hose like the one that connects to the brake booster to suck in the fluid. On the FJR you would have to pull off the throttle body synch caps one at a time, connect a hose to the nipple and run it to a can or non-Styrofoam cup filled with Seafoam, start the engine and let the intake suck in a little Seafoam while using the throttle to keep from stalling the engine. Unlike a car with a large intake plenum with relatively long runners, the FJR's short intake doesn't really have issues except for the throttle plates which you can't get to with Seafoam, you can only get some cleaner on the exhaust valves. Instead, take a look at using Yamaha Ring Free added to your gas.

3. Has been covered.

Two questions please ionbeam:

Can you easy adjust the high idle speed from this screw when the throttle bodies are installed on the engine?

And,in what rpms is normal to run the engine when this thing is in open mode when you start a cold engine?In mine is about 1900-2000rpms.

 

[ionbeam]

As for thread title....there is not "choke" on the FJR...auto or otherwise. It's fuel injected with a computer controlling the amount of fuel going to things.

Except for the wax motor on the bottom side of the fuel injection rail which operates linkages to all 4 intake throttle bodies. The linkages can stick, and there is a screw for high idle speed adjustment (pointed out below).

Two questions ionbeam:

Can you easy adjust the high idle speed from this screw when the throttle bodies are installed on the engine?

And,at what rpm's is normal to run the engine when this thing is in open mode when you start a cold engine?In mine is about 1900-2000rpm's for about 30 sec to one minute..

No, you can't easily adjust the cold engine high idle speed with the throttle bodies installed. If there is no idle speed increase when starting a cold engine something is probably amiss with the cold start idle system and not just the adjustment. Use a mechanic's mirror and take a peak under the throttle bodies as best you can.

A non-AE engine should have a cold idle speed of 1900-2000 rpms. Just like your FJR

 

[Fred W]

2nd Gens reportedly have lower fast idle speeds than the 1st Gens did (do?), even the ones that have a proper clutch lever.

 

[ionbeam]

Even though none of the service manuals or Technical Guide manuals actually mention the cold idle control hardware it is shown in the FSM along with the plumbing:

Gen I manual, Page 2-40 shows the coolant lines
Page 3-23 the hardware is shown under the TB

The Gen II FSM calls the hardware a "Plunger Control Unit" but does not actually mention or describe the hardware
The Gen II FSM, Page 7-6 shows the Plunger Control Unit and how it is up against the engine block

 

[audiowize]

If your wax motor isn't actuating, no amount of adjusting that screw will impact your high idle, since it will never actually engage. The fix for all this could be as easy as cleaning the actuator on the wax motor and ensuring that it is allowed to move freely.

Also, have you messed with the coolant lately? How's the level in the overflow tank?

 

[damianomigani]

ohh now i remember fiddling with that screw a while back.. maybe thats what it is..

thanks for the suggestions wizards!

 

[damianomigani]

If your wax motor isn't actuating, no amount of adjusting that screw will impact your high idle, since it will never actually engage. The fix for all this could be as easy as cleaning the actuator on the wax motor and ensuring that it is allowed to move freely.
Also, have you messed with the coolant lately? How's the level in the overflow tank?

i changed it a year or so ago.. it looks fine, it never needs top-ups..

i'll have a look at next service thanks!

 

[Mihalis fjr]

As for thread title....there is not "choke" on the FJR...auto or otherwise. It's fuel injected with a computer controlling the amount of fuel going to things.

Except for the wax motor on the bottom side of the fuel injection rail which operates linkages to all 4 intake throttle bodies. The linkages can stick, and there is a screw for high idle speed adjustment (pointed out below).

Two questions ionbeam:

Can you easy adjust the high idle speed from this screw when the throttle bodies are installed on the engine?

And,at what rpm's is normal to run the engine when this thing is in open mode when you start a cold engine?In mine is about 1900-2000rpm's for about 30 sec to one minute..

No, you can't easily adjust the cold engine high idle speed with the throttle bodies installed. If there is no idle speed increase when starting a cold engine something is probably amiss with the cold start idle system and not just the adjustment. Use a mechanic's mirror and take a peak under the throttle bodies as best you can.

A non-AE engine should have a cold idle speed of 1900-2000 rpms. Just like your FJR

Thanks!