Throttle position sensor installation

[JustHoward]

I will be installing a new TPS on my 2008 67,000 mile FJR. The bike is exhibiting symptoms that many of you have told me cold only be from a failing TPS.

However, my dealer says he has never installed one, and frankly, I'd rather do the job myself. He has ordered one for me (under YES warranty) and i can use his shop. in previous posts on this subject, the comment was made that the installation is pretty simple and straight-forward. However, I don't see how the TPS is removed, since it sits immediately to the side of the right frame, and one bolt is almost impossible to get at.

If somebody has the instructions from the original recall, please post those. or better yet, just please tell me how to change out the TPS.

You guys always know what you're doing.

Thanks, Howard

 

[RadioHowie]

Pretty simple, really...

Unplug the connector (arrow), remove two Security-Torx bolts and remove TPS.

Sorry, don't know the size of the Torx wrench needed. I'm thinking it's a #10, but I'm probably wrong on the size.

Just make sure when you take off the old TPS, the O-ring at the base of the shaft comes out with the TPS. The new TPS should have an O-ring with it.

After replacing the TPS, you'll have to enter the DIAG system on the dash display to pre-set the upper/lower limit of the new unit.

 

[ionbeam]

Old 'How To' from a Gen I.

 

[JustHoward]

Old 'How To' from a Gen I.

Great write-up!

When testing with an ohmmeter, which of the three terminals are tested? Do I need to do the ohmmeter test, or can I merely use the diag test on the bike diag screen?

You sure know a hell of a lot about this bike. I appreciate that.

Howard

 

[SkooterG]

I did my own twice just using the DIAG screen. No ohmmeter. You don't need it.

Both accomplish the same things.

 

[RadioHowie]

I did my own twice just

Crash Landings damage?????

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

[ionbeam]

In the end it is what shows on the diAG screen that matters. The ohm meter is just a way to get the adjustment close first. Before you remove the connector from the TPS note which terminal the Black/Blue wire is on. You will be ohming the new TPS between the Black/Blue terminal and the Yellow middle terminal without the connector plugged in. Set the resistance ball park, then plug in the connector and go to the diAG screen to dial in the lower number, the diAG reading should be real close. Note in my procedure I say to set the TPS with the ohm meter but don't tighten the screws too tight so that you can look at the diAG display and rotate the TPS until it reads the correct value. Only the low end of the TPS can be set. The span of the TPS -- from minimum to maximum is fixed by the design of the TPS all you can do is change the range of the lower reading. With the throttle fully closed the diAG should read 15 to 17. The top end can not be changed, it will be what it is once the lower reading is set.

 

[SkooterG]

I did my own twice just

Crash Landings damage?????

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Oh....somebody's a FUNNY boy. I can't decide when the time comes that I finally get to meet you in person if I am going to buy you a beer...... or punch you in the face!

Maybe both. :lol:

Two different FJRs scrotum breath. Wonder if I'll have to do it with FJR#3?

 

[RadioHowie]

I did my own twice just

Crash Landings damage?????

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Oh....somebody's a FUNNY boy. I can't decide when the time comes that I finally get to meet you in person if I am going to buy you a beer...... or punch you in the face!

Maybe both. :lol:

Two different FJRs scrotum breath. Wonder if I'll have to do it with FJR#3?

Anesthetic first.....punch second.

 

[ionbeam]

And, the real answer gets lost in the noise.

 

[Donal]

And, the real answer gets lost in the noise.

If you're not sure just which size you need; have a look here

Don

 

[JustHoward]

In the end it is what shows on the diAG screen that matters. snip....The top end can not be changed, it will be what it is once the lower reading is set.

My lower end is 17. I get smooth reading increases as I twist the throttle. But the top end, with full throttle, is only 79. (All this is with the engine off).

Is this OK or is it indicating a malfunction?

Howard

 

[SkooterG]

Only 79? That doesn't sound right. Should be closer to 97-100. Do you own a shop manual for your year FJR? I am assuming it's the same for a Gen I vs. Gen II.

 

[ionbeam]

My lower end is 17. I get smooth reading increases as I twist the throttle. But the top end, with full throttle, is only 79. (All this is with the engine off).

Is this OK or is it indicating a malfunction?

Yes, this is a malfunction. Make the checks listed below and let us know what you find before you embark on a troubleshooting mission.

Unplug the TPS connector, turn the ignition key ON. On the harness side, put the black DMM probe on the Black/Blue wire and the red DMM probe on the Light Blue wire. You should read between 4.75 and 5.00 volts. What did you read? If the voltage is low it would account for your WOT reading being low. Turn the key OFF and plug in the TPS connector. Start the engine and make this same measurement again. If it is still low you will need to troubleshoot the 5.00 volt reference circuit coming from the ECU.

1. the 5.00 volt reference circuit goes to several sensors and they all will be giving the ECU erroneous information if this voltage is low

2. the problem could be the ECU, the connector at the ECU or a wire problem with the Black/Blue wire --or-- the Light Blue wire

3. these two wires go through sub-harness connector A the only rectangular connector on the FJR with 12 wires arranged in three rows with 4 columns

4. the Black/Blue wire and the Light Blue wire are differential wires from the ECU, you can not measure these wires accurately by putting the DMM black test lead on the frame, engine or battery

If the voltage is correct, turn the key OFF and plug in the TPS connector if it is still unplugged. Turn the key back ON and put the black DMM probe on the Black/Blue wire and the red DMM probe on the Yellow wire. Roll the throttle completely open, you should read >4.5 volts on the yellow wire. What did you read? If this voltage is low:

1. the TPS is defective, or -->

2. there is a problem with the Yellow wire dragging the voltage down

3. there is a problem with the throttle linkage not allowing the throttle to achieve a fully open position -- You may want to check this first.

 

[JustHoward]

My lower end is 17. I get smooth reading increases as I twist the throttle. But the top end, with full throttle, is only 79. (All this is with the engine off).

Is this OK or is it indicating a malfunction?

Yes, this is a malfunction. Make the checks listed below and let us know what you find before you embark on a troubleshooting mission.

snip.....Start the engine and make this same measurement again.

How do I get this reading if the connector is connected?

snip.....turn the key OFF and plug in the TPS connector if it is still unplugged. Turn the key back ON and put the black DMM probe on the Black/Blue wire and the red DMM probe on the Yellow wire.

Same question, how do I get the reading if the connector is connected?

snip....

3. there is a problem with the throttle linkage not allowing the throttle to achieve a fully open position -- You may want to check this first.

I will check this first!

 

[Fred W]

How do I get this reading if the connector is connected?

You have to "back probe" the connector. What this entails is slipping something thin, like a needle or paper clip, in the connector body from the back (accessible) end to touch the metal contact surfaces inside, then clip your meter leads to those pins.

 

[ionbeam]

You have to "back probe" the connector. What this entails is slipping something thin, like a needle or paper clip, in the connector body from the back (accessible) end to touch the metal contact surfaces inside, then clip your meter leads to those pins.

Yup, that's how it's done. I've got some canvas sewing needles and heavy sewing pins that I use. Then I use an insulated alligator clip lead and clip one end to the needle/pin and clip the other end on the DMM probe. This makes a solid and easy to use connection (at least for me). Once the probe is inserted in the Black/Blue connector it can then remain there, hands free so you can fiddle with the Yellow and Light Blue wires. You can buy a bag of these test leads from Radio Shack -- or contact Skooter who has a bag full and only needs two.

Remember to remove the needles/pins when done.