Which Cruise Control?

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lunch truck larry

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Is the McCruise cruise control system still the "Mac Daddy" of the aftermarket units? Are there any new options? After a site search the old Audiovox one is still available (CCS100 ,, $180) but a lot of those posts are pretty old. Do you guys that bought the Audiovox have any regrets? Is the McCruise really that much better? My 2007 is really been doing a good job of sucking all the money out of my little motorcycle fund. Between my 25,000 mile service, valve job, new CCT valve, new front suspension, heated grips and new gloves my pot is almost empty. Do you think I should go ahead and empty the whole thing??

 
Valve job? Or just valve check/adjust? I assume the latter.

CCT is a spring loaded cam chain tensioner, not a valve.

What did you do for the front suspension?

I don't think the McCruise is better but it is supposed to be a very straight forward install. Depends on if you are doing it yourself or paying someone else.

Your motorcycle budget goes a LOT further if you learn to do some of these things yourself.

 
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lunchtrucklarry said,

"Is the McCruise cruise control system still the "Mac Daddy" of the aftermarket units? Are there any new options? After a site search the old Audiovox one is still available (CCS100 ,, $180) but a lot of those posts are pretty old. Do you guys that bought the Audiovox have any regrets? Is the McCruise really that much better? My 2007 is really been doing a good job of sucking all the money out of my little motorcycle fund. Between my 25,000 mile service, valve job, new CCT valve, new front suspension, heated grips and new gloves my pot is almost empty. Do you think I should go ahead and empty the whole thing??"
No, don't empty the whole thing. Yer gonna need a tire or two!

Take a look at the Kaoko throttle lock. A bit pricey but simple install and even simpler operation regardless of glove thickness worn. I got one from a fellow member and love it!

And ditto what

RossKean said,

Your motorcycle budget goes a LOT further if you learn to do some of these things yourself.
 
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I have a McCruise and it is the bomb. It does everything that you would expect a cruise to do. The big difference between the Audiovox / Rostra and the McCruise is the throttle connection. The McC uses a single connection to the throttle where the other units add an additional connection to the tang. The other big benefit, the directions and the wiring harness The McC is a plug and play system with excellent instructions. That is not saying that it is free and clear of a little hard work and some tricky tool manipulation. I couldn't justify spending the $900 or so on my '06. Then a forum member posted a non-working unit for $100 - That is a chance I am willing to take. I got a little help from the guys at McC to troubleshoot it - they are an awesome group. I did end up ordering a new cable harness and left hand control - so I had a couple hunnert more into it. In the end it is freaking awesome. Before that I was running a throttlemeister which did the job. But like any throttle lock - they work fine on a flat road. Up and down hills you are going to be making some adjustments. In the end they are intended to give your right wrist a break and there are several that meet that mark.

Joe

 
It was a valve check/adjustment ,and replacement of cam chain tensioner , GP kit for forks ,, springs and valves inside of forks , and you are right it does suck to pay the shop guy a hundred dollars per hour to work on your bike , when you can do it yourself , , , But at 60 years old , you start to realize your limitations and whats really in your wheelhouse,and whats not . I sure I could of taken it all apart , putting all back together ??? I don't know . But If you need lunch for 300,or so ,I'am your man !

 
Ride and Eat to Larry's Lunchtruck coming soon! Cleveland is beautiful in summer!

..and my CCS Audiovox still working great. Installed 2006 by Sir Smitty.

 
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If you are paying someone else to do it, then McCruise is your only option, but the labor to install it will be pricey. Throttle lock might be best for you.

 
Empty the whole account. I can always spend your money faster than mine
rolleyes.gif


 
It was a valve check/adjustment ,and replacement of cam chain tensioner , GP kit for forks ,, springs and valves inside of forks , and you are right it does suck to pay the shop guy a hundred dollars per hour to work on your bike , when you can do it yourself , , , But at 60 years old , you start to realize your limitations and whats really in your wheelhouse,and whats not . I sure I could of taken it all apart , putting all back together ??? I don't know . But If you need lunch for 300,or so ,I'am your man !
Hell, age 60, when I retired, was the age at which I got really into doing all my own maintenance. There is a good deal of help available out there on the interweb thingy.

 
... and you are right it does suck to pay the shop guy a hundred dollars per hour to work on your bike , when you can do it yourself , , , But at 60 years old , you start to realize your limitations and whats really in your wheelhouse,and whats not .
Baby steps!! Oil and filter - anybody can do that. Air filter - a bit of a pain-in-the-ass but no need to pay someone for that. Spark plugs, coolant change, brake/clutch fluid change - easy once you see them done once. Brake pads, pivot point lube (except the front of the relay arm), general maintenance and lube. All do-able. Perhaps you should get yourself to a "Tech Day" somewhere and watch/learn. Although reasonably mechanically competent, I knew nothing about the care and feeding of the FJR until I spent a couple days looking over someone's shoulder while they did stuff. I also spent a lot of time reading on this forum and diving into maintenance issues with the knowledge that I could get some on-line help if I found myself out of my depth. Takes a little while to build some confidence.

Lots of people draw the line at tires (equipment and some expertise needed). Likewise for things like valve checks and CCT replacement. Not impossibly difficult but the consequence of doing something wrong could be expen$ive. (I got some help when I changed my CCT but did my first valve check solo without ever seeing one done - that was nerve wracking!)

I fully understand that there are many who want nothing to do with servicing their bikes but knowing what to do can be very helpful when you run into trouble on the road. (I also understand that there are those who have zero mechanical aptitude and paying someone to do this stuff is a necessary evil. Not a criticism but a painful reality for some.)

In addition to saving you quite a bit of cash, the ability to do much of your own stuff might keep you on the road when the dealer shop tells you it will be a couple of weeks before they can even have a look at your bike (in the middle of the riding season)!

(Lunch for even 30 would be a big stretch for me. To say nothing about 300!)

Cheers!

 
I thought the the reason to buy the McCruise , was that you could install it yourself . The interweb is full of comments of how well the instructions are laid out, and how this system is FJR ready,basically a plug and play thingy .Tried a couple of those other devices ,just not what I was looking for. I have done the baby steps,Oil,filters,plugs, install MCL risers ,highway pegs, throttle tube, windscreen,Givi rack , R1 mirrors ( +1 on those ) Hand guards ,Hell, I even have a manual and a lift ! ...But taking the top of the motor off,and trying to do those values .Was something I did not want to screw up .

 
If you have done all the other stuff, I doubt you would have much trouble with the McCruise. (or even the Audiovox with some coaching)

I certainly understand stopping short of taking the top off the motor. I was pretty nervous about it the first time. If you do all the other stuff and pay someone for a valve check every couple of years, it isn't too bad (especially if you have a service guy who you trust).

 
I thought the the reason to buy the McCruise , was that you could install it yourself . The interweb is full of comments of how well the instructions are laid out, and how this system is FJR ready,basically a plug and play thingy .Tried a couple of those other devices ,just not what I was looking for. I have done the baby steps,Oil,filters,plugs, install MCL risers ,highway pegs, throttle tube, windscreen,Givi rack , R1 mirrors ( +1 on those ) Hand guards ,Hell, I even have a manual and a lift ! ...But taking the top of the motor off,and trying to do those values .Was something I did not want to screw up .
IIRC the '07 (you list that as the one you have) took a different setup or program or something from McCruise. Make sure you get the right stuff otherwise it won't work right. That '07 is still a red-headed bass turd stepchild in many ways.

 
Well that's the thing ,,,I wanted to get my bike professionally serviced because of the valve check thing @ 25000. miles, and all the other stuff that I thought goes along with that; professional dealership service experience . I bought this 2007 with about 17000. miles on it.Paid $7000..But never had it to a dealership .They found that my ground block recall, that was never done.And there was a computer thing that needed upgrade . El Tore Joe, turned me on to his shop. Breyley Yamaha, where I met Ed. An Awesome guy that knows FJR's inside and out! He even owns a 2006 with over a hundred thousand miles on it. With about a life time,of working on stuff, this guy,,, is the guy! It's so nice to find a shop that you don't mind paying, because you feel

you get your moneys worth.Anyhow ... So if I wanted to add the cruise control thing, I know it would be done right if ED did it . But, I almost feel challenge to do it myself . On a scale from 1 to 10 . How hard would it be,for the average FJR Forum member to install a McCruise cruise control system .How many hours do you think it would take? And in the end wound it be done right,.Or should you just pay a pro to do it ?

 
Larry,

I would say spend the coin to get the MotorCycle Cruise system. You have the skills already to install it yourself, based on what youve shared with us here in this thread. Its an excellent system which is bulletproof when done paying strict attention to instructions. It took me a full day for my initial install, it is rather involved, but not that hard.

When I bought my unit back in 2007 for my 06 Advanced Edition, I was still a bit intimidated by all that bodywork on my $15,999.98 wonderbike, I was hesitant to disturb any of it. Their excellent installation manual, loaded with photographs, took me by the hand and showed me every single fastener and body panel to remove for proper access. About the only thing it didnt show was the charcoal canister that my California emissions compliant possessed. Thats all I needed to break my cherry regarding servicing my full bodywork FJR.

One thing I will recommend, if you buy the system, it typically has the actuator mounted under the seat, however, the AE bikes have an electronic Black Box in that location, which forced them to find another spot. They chose to mount it under the right lower fairing just ahead of the frame and behind the radiator. The control pad was also relocated to the right hand grip because of the lack of a clutch reservoir on the left handlebar. I think it is a superior location. Tell them you want the AE setup, only with the non AE harness because your bike has a clutch handle; they omitted the pair of wires to a nonexistent clutch handle on that bike. Other than those two details, the system is the same for both the AE and non AE bike. And by the way, the 07 and 06 bikes are identical , you wont find any issues there.

Ive also installed the AudioVox system on a friends 08 standard FJR, and I wasnt nearly as impressed by it, having to have to be creative with setting up the beaded chain throttle linkage. I much prefer the fully engineered cable interface, and the extra safeguards the electronics provide in the MC Cruise installation. It is a system designed expressly for motorcycles, not an adaptation of a generic automotive unit - much safer in my opinion.

You wont be disappointed with the system once in place. It will be money well invested.

Just sell more sandwiches.

Brodie

🤗

 
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Hmmm...

On my 1st Gen FJR I decided to put on an audiovox CC. Im a relatively competent mechanic, made my livelihood from working on electromechanical devices for 40 years. I had no problem installing the AVCC. It did what it was supposed to, and was cheap at right around a hundo. But, being a guy that tries NOT to ride on the highway unless absolutely necessary, I found I didnt really use it all that much. I eventually removed it and sold it off used for almost what I paid for it. Simplify, I said.

Fast forward 8 years and 100k FJR miles and I bought a 2014 ES model, which includes a factory CC. While it wasnt really something I thought I wanted or needed, I now find I use it a lot more than that old AVCC. It might be me that changed, or it might be the factory cruise is that much better, or even more likely it might be a subtle combination of the two.

Only you could possibly know if the cost of adding the aftermarket cruise will be worth it for you. And even you may not know until after you try it. ;)

 
I've installed 6 or 7 cruise controls over the last 20 years. All were Audiovox CCS-100's except the last one done a year ago on my Gen1 FJR (McCruise). The other bikes were ST1100's (3 or 4 times), VStrom 650, and KLR650. In my opinion the CCS-100 installations were easier than the McCruise.

It is probably not a fair comparison because the McCruise I installed on my FJR was not custom made for the FJR. It was one of the earlier models that was made to install on a 1998 ST1100. It did not have a speed sensor connection to a coil wire but used a hall effect sensor that monitored rear wheel rotation. That part of the installation was not too difficult, I was able to reshape the bracket that the pickup coil mounted on and attach it to the rear axle pinch bolt. 2 small magnets are inserted into 2 of the rear rotor allen bolt heads. (later models utilized 6 magnets)

The wiring harness was completely different because of different component locations. The Computer was placed under the tail section just in front of the tail / brake light assembly (same location as ST1100). The wiring to the brake light switch and the speed sensor was relatively simple.

The tricky part of the install was figuring out where to mount the cable interface unit (CIU) and the vacuum servo. There are 3 cables to the CIU, one from the throttle "pull" cable, one from the vacuum servo, and one going to the throttle bodies (connects to the place where the throttle "pull" cable was removed. I experimented with different locations for the CIU and ended up placing it under the fuel tank on the left side. This location could not have been used if the hoses / valve for the PAIR system were still present. I used the nicely machined plates from Dave at WynPro to free up some space between the valve cover and the fuel tank. The connections to the CIU were a little tricky because the orientation of the unit in relation to where the cables go was different between the ST1100 and the FJR. So new holes had to be drilled and tapped into the plastic CIU housing. This would not be a problem if you bought a unit from McCuise that was designed for the FJR.

I mounted the vacuum servo under the seat where there was just barely enough clearance because of the ABS unit that is just below the storage compartment.

There is a 3 position switch on the computer for sensitivity (low, med, hi). I ended up using medium which maintains speed within 2 or 3 mph without harsh engagement (which happens in high). Low works ok but speed can drift 4 to 6 mph in hilly country.

I initially mounted the control switches on the left handlebar under the clutch master cylinder but it was difficult to reach the switches so I removed the assembly and simplified the wiring using micro switches from my "parts stash" (former computer tech). I put the switch for "set / accelerate" above and to the right of the left handlebar grip and the "resume / decelerate" switch just above the kill switch on the right side.

I added a safety relay to remove power from the unit when either brake is depressed and a switch on the clutch lever to disengage the cruise as soon as lever moves. I pull vacuum from all 4 throttle body connectors (with 4 check valves) and fabricated a vacuum cannister in front of the rear shock. I mounted a small vacuum gauge on the dash so I can see when the cruise engages and make sure there are no vacuum leaks.

McCruise tech support is excellent and they helped me out with installation and troubleshooting documents even though I was not the original purchaser of the unit. I also got support from a member on the ST-Owners site who has installed several units on ST1100's

McCruise has an optional servo (motor driven) that is smaller in diameter than the vacuum model which should be easier to fit. Probably costs extra though (not sure).

If I were to buy a new unit from McCruise (unlikely because of cost) I would want to be certain all components were designed to mount on the exact model of FJR that the unit was being installed on.

Sorry no pics were taken of install (but it really DID happen
smile.png
)

Tom

Aurora, CO

2004 ABS / McCruise

10:33 final drive gears from Royal Star Venture

General G-Max AS-05 205/50ZR17

 
All I can add is empirical data: My Audiovox CC has worked well without issue for about 85,000 miles. I was on a trip once with a buddy that had a McCruise on his '08 and we traded bikes for a while. He commented that he thought my cc held more accurately and engaged more smoothly. It's all about the care in installation, and my brother in law basically did it for me and is a master of all things electrical / auto, and at the time he owned a custom audio install business.

 

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