Kelvininin
Well-known member
I finally finished the Rostra Cruise install on my 2010 FJR. Much thanks to my fantastic wife who ran interference with our toddler and infant twins to give me time to install the cruise while I should have been doing stuff around the house.
After much research I wanted to go with the McCruise, however, the McCruise is cost prohibitive at the moment so I weighted my options and went with the Rostra. I like the rostra because its electronic, and made in the US. I would rather putz with electronics and wiring than vacuum lines.
Probably the must frustrating part of this install for me was connecting the cruise cable to the throttle and anchoring the cruise cable. I’m picky, and anal retentive, I went through several iterations before settling on the KISS method. I drilled and tapped the throttle stop for a 4mm machine screw. I ground the screw head so that it would clear the throttle cable. I used a 4mm nylon lock nut to fasten the ball chain connector to the 4mm screw. For the throttle cable I used the threaded cable clamp, some cushion camps and a small piece of 3/8” thick wall copper tubing to direct the cruise cable. Picture below.
I attached the Rostra module to the tray under the seat, I used some aluminum angle to make a bracket for relays and a ground termination block.
Now down to the wiring… This is where things get a little interesting.
I tied the Rostra Grey VSS in the FJR ABS communication wire, wire color white with yellow.
The cold side brake wire (purple) was tied into the yellow wire with green; this wire is hot when the brakes are applied.
Rostra dark blue Tach wire tired in to the FJR orange coil pack 1 fire signal.
I pulled a relay trigger wire, and power for the Engaged LED from the power to the taillight. This is the blue with red FJR wire.
The Rostra wire harness comes with a ton or wire, I cut most of it out, and solder where appropriate.
I used the Rostra key pad with the engaged light. I potted with the pad with black non-corrosive peramatex to weather proof it.
The rostra keypad calls for power from three locations, the white is switched power, the red is hot side brake wire, and the brown with red drip is part of the 4 pin harness to the rostra unit. I tired both the 4 amp red wire, the white wire, and the brown rostra power wire into the output side of the power relay. The power relay provided the rostra power from the battery via single from the taillight. The purpose of the using the hot side of the brake switch is to disable the cruise control if the brake circuit ever fails, my wiring setup defeats this, so if the brake light circuit fails, tapping the brakes will not disengage the cruise. I am betting my brake circuit doesn’t fail. If it does there is always the “off” button.
The keypad with the engage LED uses a ground signal from the Rostra to turn on, this requires a relay to function. The Rostra provides the ground, I provide the power.
Here is the picture of the wiring in progress, I admit there was a, “this thing will never run again” moment.
And the finished wiring.
I used the is opportunity to build a bracket for the cruise control key pad and the oxford heated grips controller.
After getting everything done, and installing all the body panels, I ran the diagnostics, passed with flying colors.
Took it out for an 80 mile test ride, I have working cruise control. I tested speeds from 35 to 80 mph all worked great. The Rostra handled rolling hills no problem, the accel button adds about 1 mph the coast subtracts 1.5. Tapping the brakes disengages cruise.
I have around $300 total into this project, worth every penny and I love shop time so wrenching on stuff is always fun for me.
Life is good. Looking forward to getting some serious time with this thing.
After much research I wanted to go with the McCruise, however, the McCruise is cost prohibitive at the moment so I weighted my options and went with the Rostra. I like the rostra because its electronic, and made in the US. I would rather putz with electronics and wiring than vacuum lines.
Probably the must frustrating part of this install for me was connecting the cruise cable to the throttle and anchoring the cruise cable. I’m picky, and anal retentive, I went through several iterations before settling on the KISS method. I drilled and tapped the throttle stop for a 4mm machine screw. I ground the screw head so that it would clear the throttle cable. I used a 4mm nylon lock nut to fasten the ball chain connector to the 4mm screw. For the throttle cable I used the threaded cable clamp, some cushion camps and a small piece of 3/8” thick wall copper tubing to direct the cruise cable. Picture below.
I attached the Rostra module to the tray under the seat, I used some aluminum angle to make a bracket for relays and a ground termination block.
Now down to the wiring… This is where things get a little interesting.
I tied the Rostra Grey VSS in the FJR ABS communication wire, wire color white with yellow.
The cold side brake wire (purple) was tied into the yellow wire with green; this wire is hot when the brakes are applied.
Rostra dark blue Tach wire tired in to the FJR orange coil pack 1 fire signal.
I pulled a relay trigger wire, and power for the Engaged LED from the power to the taillight. This is the blue with red FJR wire.
The Rostra wire harness comes with a ton or wire, I cut most of it out, and solder where appropriate.
I used the Rostra key pad with the engaged light. I potted with the pad with black non-corrosive peramatex to weather proof it.
The rostra keypad calls for power from three locations, the white is switched power, the red is hot side brake wire, and the brown with red drip is part of the 4 pin harness to the rostra unit. I tired both the 4 amp red wire, the white wire, and the brown rostra power wire into the output side of the power relay. The power relay provided the rostra power from the battery via single from the taillight. The purpose of the using the hot side of the brake switch is to disable the cruise control if the brake circuit ever fails, my wiring setup defeats this, so if the brake light circuit fails, tapping the brakes will not disengage the cruise. I am betting my brake circuit doesn’t fail. If it does there is always the “off” button.
The keypad with the engage LED uses a ground signal from the Rostra to turn on, this requires a relay to function. The Rostra provides the ground, I provide the power.
Here is the picture of the wiring in progress, I admit there was a, “this thing will never run again” moment.
And the finished wiring.
I used the is opportunity to build a bracket for the cruise control key pad and the oxford heated grips controller.
After getting everything done, and installing all the body panels, I ran the diagnostics, passed with flying colors.
Took it out for an 80 mile test ride, I have working cruise control. I tested speeds from 35 to 80 mph all worked great. The Rostra handled rolling hills no problem, the accel button adds about 1 mph the coast subtracts 1.5. Tapping the brakes disengages cruise.
I have around $300 total into this project, worth every penny and I love shop time so wrenching on stuff is always fun for me.
Life is good. Looking forward to getting some serious time with this thing.
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