Looking for a tiny waterproof 12v switch

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Dangerous Dave

The older I get, the faster I was...
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My GPR125R has dual headlights, but they are one for high beam and one for low beam. Being a European bike, it has a "flash" switch on the left switch case which will momentarily illuminate both lamps. I'd like to have the option to turn them both on for slightly longer periods than I'd wanna hold on to the silly switch. I could fish a couple wires through the stock harness and mount a switch somewhere else on the bike in parallel to the flash switch, but it would be much nicer if I could find a really small waterproof (or even one I could make waterproof) switch that I could mount right in the left switch case. A rocker switch would be my first choice, but a push on/push off would do the job as well. I've hunted online until I can't see straight anymore without finding what I'm really looking for. Yes, I am aware of current draw concerns in the circuit. This would be for short term use only when conditions necesitate it, but it would be nice to have. So...anybody know here I can find a reeeeeally tiny 12v switch that's not just a momentary contact??

IMG_2878.jpg


 
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Any marine outlet will have waterproof switches. You don't really need 100% waterproof btw, it's only 12 volts, and will only get wet when it rains and the bike is sitting still. Not like you're going to submerge it in salt water.

Clicky The Surf N Turf's sound like they are what you want. There are thousands of other places.

Google search

 
Clicky The Surf N Turf's sound like they are what you want.

Probem is, all those are (relatively) huge for my application. I installed a tiny momentary contact switch in the left switch case of the feej for garage door opener. Fit beautifully and you'd hardly even know it was there. If I could find an on/off that size, I'd be in like Flynn.

There are thousands of other places.
Google search

Yeah...I think I've already been to the first 500 or so. I can barely read the screen anymore. :dribble:

Dave, have you read this thread?

I have now! Nice little switch Highlander's got there. Have to get a better look at the GPR switchcase to see if there's room for one like that. I also hadn't previously thought about mounting underneath, but certainly worth looking at. I'd like to avoid the complexity of relaying if possible. With a massive 14 rwhp on tap, every little bit adds up. ;) Thanks guys.

 
Here is a post of the switches used for some of the Audiovox CC's.... clicky

Post 2 for the picture and post 9 for part numbers...

 
You could install a latching relay, one click of the existing switch would turn them on and a second click would turn them off. Google latching relay for data or PM me.

 
Here is a post of the switches used for some of the Audiovox CC's.... clicky
Post 2 for the picture and post 9 for part numbers...

Those are certainly nice and small on the inside, but I'm not crazy about the amount of protrusion on the outside. It would certainly do the job, but I'd like to find something more discreet if possible.

You could install a latching relay, one click of the existing switch would turn them on and a second click would turn them off. Google latching relay for data or PM me.

That is a way slick idea. It doesn't get any more discreet than that. I found several possibilities at digi-key, although some of the specs are confusing. Like the one that says "Coil Voltage 12VDC "..."Control On Voltage (Max) 9.6 VDC " To me, that reads that it takes 12v to operate the coil, but the contact side won't handle that much. Am I missing something? I found that one HERE.

 
Check into an AutoSwitch. Sounds as though it could do what you want it to do. Wire the power in parallel from the AutoSwitch to the headlights and allow both the AutoSwitch and switch cluster to control the headlights.

 
Check into an AutoSwitch. Sounds as though it could do what you want it to do. Wire the power in parallel from the AutoSwitch to the headlights and allow both the AutoSwitch and switch cluster to control the headlights.

Also a cool product, but looks like it's only made to power a relay (low current draw), not the lights themselves. There's also apparently a "6 to 7 foot long LED wire" that they tell you NOT to cut. That would make one hell of a bundle on a small bike. The latching relay is still sounding like the hot ticket if I can find the right one. Thanks for the tip though.

 
I found several possibilities at digi-key, although some of the specs are confusing. Like the one that says "Coil Voltage 12VDC "..."Control On Voltage (Max) 9.6 VDC " To me, that reads that it takes 12v to operate the coil, but the contact side won't handle that much. Am I missing something? I found that one HERE.

On that one you could only run 9.6 volts to the coil maximum, the coil is designed for 5 volts.

Let me look around a bit.

 
I looked around and it looks like old Jags and old VWs used latching relays for their hi/low headlights.

I actually found one for a fraction of the price HERE. However, I'm not sure this will do it...at least not alone. Looking at the schematic of the relay, it appears that it actually sends the power to the lamps, whereas I already have power to and through the lamp and need to supply a ground. I don't think it will work the other way since there appears to be a diode in the relay. I could use that one to control another relay and make that one work the right way. That way I could use the existing flash switch as an on/off switch. Have to think that one through when I'm more awake...been a long day. I did go to Radio Shack today and found a relatively small push-button on/of switch, but once I opened up the Derbi switchcase, there was clearly room for alot of NOTHING in there, so the relay idea is starting to look even more attractive. I'll think through the two relay thing in the morning.

Thanks man.

 
I looked around and it looks like old Jags and old VWs used latching relays for their hi/low headlights.

I actually found one for a fraction of the price HERE. However, I'm not sure this will do it...at least not alone. Looking at the schematic of the relay, it appears that it actually sends the power to the lamps, whereas I already have power to and through the lamp and need to supply a ground. I don't think it will work the other way since there appears to be a diode in the relay. I could use that one to control another relay and make that one work the right way. That way I could use the existing flash switch as an on/off switch. Have to think that one through when I'm more awake...been a long day. I did go to Radio Shack today and found a relatively small push-button on/of switch, but once I opened up the Derbi switchcase, there was clearly room for alot of NOTHING in there, so the relay idea is starting to look even more attractive. I'll think through the two relay thing in the morning.

Thanks man.

Cool. If you have any other questions let me know.

 
Well, here's what I came up with. (note to self; Damn glad I make my living as a mechanic and not a graphic artist!) The VW headlight dimmer relay is actually a 5-pin, but for my purpose it wasn't really necesary to illustrate all 5 terminals here. The other relay is a standard 12v 4-pin relay. The high beam already has 12v switched power to it, I want to control the ground side. So I can use the standard relay to control the ground, and use the VW relay to control the standard relay, using my flash switch to give the ground pulse to turn on the V-dub latching relay. I just need to find a switched 12v source to power the V-dub relay, as I suppose the two relays could actually kill the relatively small Derbi battery over time if they were left on. So tell me if this looks do-able.

highbeamcircuit.jpg


I also discovered that by the time I pay shipping from the guys I mentioned above, I might as well just buy it from my local Autozone for $25 + tax. So whaddaya think??

 
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Well, here's what I came up with. (note to self; Damn glad I make my living as a mechanic and not a graphic artist!) The VW headlight dimmer relay is actually a 5-pin, but for my purpose it wasn't really necesary to illustrate all 5 terminals here. The other relay is a standard 12v 4-pin relay. The high beam already has 12v switched power to it, I want to control the ground side. So I can use the standard relay to control the ground, and use the VW relay to control the standard relay, using my flash switch to give the ground pulse to turn on the V-dub latching relay. I just need to find a switched 12v source to power the V-dub relay, as I suppose the two relays could actually kill the relatively small Derbi battery over time if they were left on. So tell me if this looks do-able.
highbeamcircuit.jpg


I also discovered that by the time I pay shipping from the guys I mentioned above, I might as well just buy it from my local Autozone for $25 + tax. So whaddaya think??


Your high beam will only work if the relay is on like that, try it like this:

highbeamcircuit.jpg


 
Your high beam will only work if the relay is on like that,

Yikes! You're right.

try it like this:
highbeamcircuit.jpg

Nope...we're both wrong. Needs to be like this;

highbeamcircuit2.jpg


But glad you caught my mistake for me. And I'm still not giving up my day job to become a graphic artist. :)

Your right. I was thinking the switched 12v+ was from the high/low switch........... cars & bikes switching the grounded leg is so backwards it throws me sometimes.

 
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