AE clutch feeling

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samamoto

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I was looking today at a 2008 FJR1300AE that I could be interested in. I didn't make a test ride but I did try it a bit stationary. I started the engine (it had to crank a bit) and with the brake on set the first gear. I was surprised with the strong push/kick and sound it made. Is it normal? I was expecting more like a sound of the gear getting in and that the clutch would try to engage when I touch the throttle. Not sure how it should work. The bike has 62k miles - that could be partially a reason.

 
It is pretty hard kick in. I have an AE that I just crashed a few weeks ago. One thing I found that I don't like about the auto clutch is slow speed turns. Other than that, I love the auto clutch especially in my daily traffic commute and the paddle shift. I crashed mine as I was making a u turn, as it was slowing engaging into first gear as I was making the turn it jerked and caused my throttle to jerk and send me off an embankment. Being able to feather the clutch in these situations is very useful. I have been riding this bike for several years so I am pretty used to it but this really makes me wonder if it is such a good idea at least I will be very careful in the future.

 
OK, that is something that I'll have to keep in mind than. I'm thinking about an AE mainly due to the heated grips and paddle shift which seem to be interesting but if that kick in is supposed to be hard that's something to take into consideration too.

 
I have a 2013 and would not hesitate to own an AE if they were available here in that year as i have to have the cruise control

.

My son has a 2007 AE and it is fun to ride. As for slow speeds , a little rear brake does wonders

 
The somewhat loud clank you heard as it went into first gear for the first time is apparently common. Mine does it the first time its run each day. Thereafter its much quieter and smoother, from N to 1st and all other shifts.

Low speed turning is the only issue with the AE, and as others have said you can adjust to that.

 
The FJR's shift from neutral to 1st is almost always clunky and feels hard. However once the bike is in gear, going from stop to start should be pretty smooth.

Modulate the clutch with the rear brake because under certain RPM, the clutch will engage and you'll lose power. Keep the revs up with the rear brake and the AE is pretty capable during slow maneuvers.

Ride it before you decide. Most owners wouldn't give their's up.

 
Wouldn't give mine up. I'm on my third (but then I get the '14 version
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, and I have left hand issues
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).

A clunk is normal with the FJR when selecting 1st. If changing from neutral to first with the engine running, I always put my rear brake on to prevent any bike movement.

If the bike's been stood for a while, that can make the clutch reluctant to let go.

If the clunk is really severe, it could be that the clutch is sticking, a not uncommon "feature" that can be cured with a little time, nothing to worry about.

The actuators make a bit of a noise when operating; without helmet and earplugs, these will sound quite loud.

Many FJR owners start their bike in first, the starter motor frees the clutch if necessary (long arguments debates about whether that's too much of a load for the starter motor/battery). In theory, you never need to change into neutral with the AE unless you want to put the bike on its side-stand with the engine running.

As for the U-turn, two ways to deal with it. Dragging the rear brake works well as mentioned above. The other way, if you know it's a really slow turn, slow the bike right down before the turn until the clutch disengages, now bring the throttle up gently so that the clutch is slipping. Hold the clutch slipping through the turn. I've used this many times on steep uphill tight hairpins.

These take a little learning, but once perfected, not a problem.

 
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I am a recent owner of a 06 AE, coming from a 99 Buell S3. Mine also clunks when dropped into first gear, more so I think using the paddle shift than foot, but could be my imagination. The challenges are adjusting to the lack of clutch lever and the ability to feather it on speeds of 0-5 MPH or so. You'll learn to "feather the clutch" using judicious throttle/rear brake. Start by practicing U turns in a safe place, slowly tightening the radius, but be careful not to let the revs drop below where the clutch disengages. Other places where lack of clutch becomes problematic are where you need to move slowly like traffic making left turns.

 
... Mine also clunks when dropped into first gear, more so I think using the paddle shift than foot, but could be my imagination. ...
Definitely your imagination. The same mechanism is used regardless of which trigger you used to tell it to change gear.

 
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