Fuel Cap re key advise needed please

I tried a search on how to re key the tank fuel cap but no luck.

My bike came with 2 keys because the po had the ignition switch replaced at one point. One key for the igntion, one for the rest of the bike. Not a huge deal, but add a newly purchased trunk with....wait for it...a 3rd key!

I thought I'd have a locksmith take a look at the ignition and trunk tumblers to get them re keyed to match the rest of the bike. He took one look at the ignition switch and said no, he couldn't do it because that style was not serviceable, and that he'd instead have to re key the the other locks to match it.

I thanked him for his time and have since figured out how to disassemble the side bags, trunk, and seat lock tumblers so I can now re key them myself. Which leaves me with the tank filler cap, the one remaining lock I haven't figured out how to get the tumbler barrel removed from yet.

Has anyone had one of these things apart? If so, please tell me how. The only other choice I see is maybe buying a matching lock set online or maybe a used set, and re keying the bags, seat lock, and trunk to match them. I hesitate on buying non oem parts, especially the ignition switch with all the posts on switch failures and recalls. Any suggestions?

TIA

Hmmm.. I saw somewhere a how to on how to disassemble and clean the gas cap. Not sure what Web site it was on. It showed getting to the tumbler I believe.

Find a better locksmith. That ignition tumbler IS servicable. When the recall was done, the shop was supposed to do that for the customer. Many shops didn't do it and got away with it. I had the recall done on my '07 and only have one key.

The trunk lock would be easy enough to change, so I would start there. However, it almost sounds like you already adjusted the bag locks. Is that correct? If so, changing the gas lock may be the easier solution at this point. Only a few of us have had the gas cap all the way apart. FredW is one of them. If anyone knows how to disassemble and reassemble that mechanism, he will. There are some small things you need to know to make your life easier.

Good luck!

Finally found this one in a non FJR Yamaha listing

Looks do able to me.

I had no problem getting my ignition switch apart to the point of servicing the individual tumblers. All that's needed is to drill out a couple of security screws - no big deal.







Brodie

For the fuel cap, first remove it from the tank via three hex recess screws. The one at 12 O'clock and the two at 5 and 7 O'clock. The other two are fake. Once you have the whole thing out, you'll kinda figure out what to do. Here is the thread you were looking for.........

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/18042-gas-cap-modification/page-2

RaYzerman19 said:

For the fuel cap, first remove it from the tank via three hex recess screws. The one at 12 O'clock and the two at 5 and 7 O'clock. The other two are fake. Once you have the whole thing out, you'll kinda figure out what to do. Here is the thread you were looking for.........https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/18042-gas-cap-modification/page-2

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Thanks for the link. Man, FredW did a great write up on the fuel cap disassembly. I had actually gotten mine to that point earlier today, but I'm stuck at not being able to remove the tumbler assy for the re key.

Good thread. I won't re-comment on the notable sketchiness of Yamma locks, but I will say that that inherent sketchiness is more irritating in the fuel cap. If I could figure out how to make the stock one keyless, I would.

As a fall-back you can have a new key blank cut with the key pattern of one key on one edge and the other key pattern on the other edge. Depending on which item you are using the key in, rotate the key 180° for one lock and back to 0° for the other lock. One key, you just rotate the key appropriately for the lock. Mark one side of the key head so you know which side is 'up'.

ionbeam said:

As a fall-back you can have a new key blank cut with the key pattern of one key on one edge and the other key pattern on the other edge. Depending on which item you are using the key in, rotate the key 180° for one lock and back to 0° for the other lock. One key, you just rotate the key appropriately for the lock. Mark one side of the key head so you know which side is 'up'.

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I did this way back in high school when I had a key cut for my '71 Comet on one side and Dad's F150 on the other. I put a notch in one side to designate the Comet so I always knew which way to orient the key for each vehicle.

When my ignition was replaced (before the recall, and again with the recall) the dealer cut keys with the ignition on one edge and the other locks on the other. It is a minor pain to align the key with what lock you are using, but it is a very minor pain. This has worked for many years and seems fine.

This all sounds like a lot of work to me, wouldn't it just be easier to order a new lock set from the dealer and have them install it? Then you have a factory key that goes to everything like original?

erixun said:

This all sounds like a lot of work to me, wouldn't it just be easier to order a new lock set from the dealer and have them install it? Then you have a factory key that goes to everything like original?

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Well, that's how it was supposed to work in the first place. Hate to say it, but some people didn't read the recall notice and let some shitty service department do a half-assed job and not key the bike correctly. Now people are running around with two separate keys, like it's cool, and really it's not.

What I know is, mine was done correctly, because my service department is awesome, but if it hadn't been done correctly, my bike wouldn't have left the dealership until it was.