Final Drive 4 Acorn Nuts-Torque

Searched thru FAQ Bin-O-Facs and cannot find torque value for the four acorn nuts on the final drive/swing arm connection. Can one of you experienced Gen3 folks please let me know? Thanks.

art miller said:

Searched thru FAQ Bin-O-Facs and cannot find torque value for the four acorn nuts on the final drive/swing arm connection. Can one of you experienced Gen3 folks please let me know? Thanks.

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Not specific for Gen3 - but it seems this would be the same for all generations.

According to this : https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/spline/spline.html

should be 42 Nm (30 ft-lbs)

See item #9

FSM says 30 ft. lbs., but that is the most I'd go on that size of stud..... also a good application for loctite.

30 FT-LB per Gen 3 shop manual. I'd recommend NOT using Loctite. You would have a heck of a time removing in the future and the shop manual doesn't call for it.

I'd forget the torque wrench on those...good and snug is the way to go.

Usually on fasteners that small I will not get out the torque wrench. Snug with a 3/8 ratchet is good enough. Also you can feel free to use BLUE loctite.It is the lower strength and easier remove locker that still does the job.

Just do what the engineers put in the shop manual. 30 and no locktite.

Seems reasonable to me and anything else is opinion.

I bet that the guys that designed it know what they are doing.

Why loctite.......... we've discussed this before.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/165174-startling-discovery/?hl=%2Bfinal+%2Bdrive+%2Bnuts

Why loctite.......... we've discussed this before.<br />
<a href='https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/165174-startling-discovery/?hl=%2Bfinal+%2Bdrive+%2Bnuts'>https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/165174-startling-discovery/?hl=%2Bfinal+%2Bdrive+%2Bnuts

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No kidding. The shop manual was not written for no reason. Follow it. You will be fine.

I've pulled the swing arms off of 6 different FJR's for maintenance - pumpkin goes back on at 30 ft lbs, and no loctite - as per the factory specs.

But don't forget the washers when you re-assemble.

If you're going to use the manual specified torque, make sure the stud and the nut threads are thoroughly degreased so that they are as dry as when first assembled in the factory, which is what that value refers to.

Personally, I don't use a torque wrench, Just my patented "pinch test" .

(Click on image for larger view)

Ouch!!! Been there done that!

mcatrophy said:

If you're going to use the manual specified torque, make sure the stud and the nut threads are thoroughly degreased so that they are as dry as when first assembled in the factory, which is what that value refers to.Personally, I don't use a torque wrench, Just my patented "pinch test" :mda: .(Click on image for larger view)

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Dayum...I get that weird feeling in my stomach every time I see that picture. That had to hurt. Ouch!

HotRodZilla said:

...Dayum...I get that weird feeling in my stomach every time I see that picture. That had to hurt. Ouch!

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Barely felt it.
You know what they say, no sense, no feeling .

Actually a fairly minor injury by my standards. Most of my jobs end up blood-stained, usually with my own blood. .

kaitsdad said:

<snip> But don't forget the washers when you re-assemble.

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Once the acorn nuts are removed, I wiggle the pumpkin to loosen the washers. They do like to roll...DAMHIK

--G

There is no down side to using blue loctite. Use it if you want to. Dont if you dont.

Thanks guys for all the advice. I'll give it 30 lbs/ft and dry threads.

One more question if I may. While the final drive is out and the shaft removed, I would like to clean and lube the splines on the engine end of the unit. Do I have to remove the foot peg assembly to enable my pulling the U-joint. I removed the dust guard but could not figure how to remove the fastener that holds the other shield. It looks like a punch rivet but it does not release even with a good deal of pushing force. The diagram on the Forum thread seems to show it as a threaded fastener. There is no hex head or screw driver slot on mine. If any of you who have a Genlll removed that plastic please do tell. Did you have to remove the foot peg bracket in order to remove the plastic? Thanks for your usual good advice. Art

art miller said:

Thanks guys for all the advice. I'll give it 30 lbs/ft and dry threads....

Art

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Personally, I always lubricate threads before doing them up, and I've never used a torque wrench, I do them by feel. I can't remember the last time I had a problem with something that I'd done up being too loose and undoing itself, too tight and stripping a thread, or seizing due to corrosion.
Of course, this doesn't apply to stretch bolts (typically used on cylinder heads and the like), where a torque wrench is essential. I've never done a cylinder head since my Tiger Cub days, when I didn't know what a torque wrench was, and the manual simply said "... finally tighten down the four sleeve nuts". I suppose it's the many, many hours of working on the Cub that helped teach me that "feel".

(click on image for larger view)

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If you go with lubricated threads (I always do), use about 60% of the recommended torque if you fell you have to use a torque wrench................