2015 First TBS - what the...?

Advertise with us!
Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Intech

Intech

Mr. Camping Meet
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
3,990
Reaction score
1,013
Location
King George, VA
Just finished performing my first TBS at 15K. Got it all set up and they were not even close. Found two of the vacuum screws closed and the other two barely cracked. that would lead me to believe that it was never even done on the initial setup. It will be interesting to see if I notice any difference.

Guess I will be looking a little closer at everything else. I do know I can get my oil drain plug out, though!

 
POS Yamaha's
weirdsmiley.gif


Bike may run the same after your tbs.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am very glad to read this Intech. Now that you are experienced in this, you can ride down here and sync mine for me.

Since it was so bad you can give us a follow up report on just how much improvement you got. I am hopeful that now your FJR:

1. Runs smoother. Not as smooth as a BMW K1600 of course, but smoother than it did.

2. Gets better fuel mileage.

3. Accelerates harder.

4. The mirrors are positioned better.

5. You turn fewer RPM in 5th gear.

6. The Hooter's waitresses all wave to you as you ride by.

Seriously, I am interested in YOUR evaluation. Especially if it was as far out of adjustment as you say.

 
did my first synch over the winter and could only get perfect readings with all four screws closed completely...adjustments were made on the throttle plate screws and only very small adjustments were needed. With the vacuum screws open I could not get the idle down...yours doesn't have an idle adjustment . Only difference I saw was that along with the correct idle speed she starts instantly now.

 
There should be one screw marked with a paint daub. That is the reference screw (can be any one of the four as I understand it). You will find it screwed all the way in. Adjust the others to it. The FSM says if you can't get them adjusted, clean the TB's....... er, ya right, scratching my head...... haven't run into that yet but maybe it works?

The Yamaha approach with GenIII seems to be to take the one with the least flow and call it the reference........

As lnewolf says, the ECU does the idle adjustments......

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Now Bob.... the instructions on the Motion Pro manometers CLEARLY state that you may NOT start drinking until after you are done. Did you stray from the rules..... even just a little?

Seriously, I wonder how much "off" it really takes to make a noticeable difference? I'll be doing mine at the first valve check unless conditions require otherwise.

RFH - Don't wait for Bob. Just come over to my house. Bring your Dad - we can sync ya'll up good. Trust me - I did MikeP's with his valve check. Heck - after that timing chain thingie.... everything else went just fine!!
aikido.gif


 
I am not going to your house 'pants. I keep reading how hot it is over there!

I am Very Interested in reading what Intech has to report about his results. I am Completely Happy with the way Scar runs and performs right now but if it makes a huge difference I could be tempted. Plus, Pop has over 50K on his bike and I am never certain exactly what has and has not been done on it. My memory has been disremembering a lot of stuff lately.

 
Redfish Hunter said:
I am not going to your house 'pants. I keep reading how hot it is over there!
I am Very Interested in reading what Intech has to report about his results. I am Completely Happy with the way Scar runs and performs right now but if it makes a huge difference I could be tempted. Plus, Pop has over 50K on his bike and I am never certain exactly what has and has not been done on it. My memory has been disremembering a lot of stuff lately.
Click to expand...
Just dropped my wheels and a new set of PR2's off at the tire place this morning. The bike is currently shoeless. I will be riding it tomorrow, so I shall see.

You should ride up here and I will take care of you TBS. You know how much cooler it is up "north"!

 
RaYzerman19 said:
The Yamaha approach with GenIII seems to be to take the one with the least flow and call it the reference........
Click to expand...
Yamaha takes the one with the least vacuum (with all 4 air screws fully closed) and marks that one as the reference and opens the other 3 to match it. Increasing air flow will lower vacuum.

The idea here is to only open the air screws as much as it takes to get the 4 vacuums balanced. That way, the majority of the air is going through the throttle bodies giving the ECU the max range of adjustment for the automagic idle speed. It is quite likely that Bob's just had two cylinders with the same amount of low vacuum.

If for some reason one of the 4 ports measured a lower vacuum than the one marked as reference, I would make that one be the one that is all the way closed and adjust the other three to it, ignoring the factory paint dot. You just want all 4 to be balanced, and opened as little as possible.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
All that technical stuff is fine Fred but I wanna know how much better it works. Is it faster? Is it smoother? Better fuel mileage? Shinier paint? Let's focus on what is important here.

Actually, thanks Fred. I have never done this and do not know exactly what is involved even though I have read extensively on this forum how to do it. Since I am so lazy I would need a lot of incentive and a guaranteed payback to make this worthwhile for me. I would hate to just throw my credit card at it until it gets done.

 
All that technical stuff is fine Fred but I wanna know how much better it works...
...I have never done this and do not know exactly what is involved...I would need a lot of incentive and a guaranteed payback to make this worthwhile for me. I would hate to just throw my credit card at it until it gets done.
Click to expand...
What you get is improved power balance between the cylinders because they all now have (nearly) identical intake flow.

If you have seen a TBS performed, especially with a Gen III you will see that it is easy to do and hard to screw up. If you already own a sync too or can borrow one the cost will be zero. Once you have the tank propped up most of the hard work is done. Follow the FSM, take your time and it all will work out. Finish the hard work of putting the gas tank back down and feel the glow of success and accomplishment
smile.png


There are some engines that are hard to sync like my Honda V4 (carb) and my V-Max (carb) where the balance levels at each cylinder were interactive with each other, the FJR is easy peasy to set and be done with it.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The return on investment on a 3rd Gen FJR is very small because you can't fiddle with the throttle plates. They are fixed in their positions.

I would say, borrow a tool and do it once, then don't worry about doing it again unless you feel it may have gone out of whack, which should not be for a very long time. YMMV

 
Fred W said:
RaYzerman19 said:
The Yamaha approach with GenIII seems to be to take the one with the least flow and call it the reference........
Click to expand...
Yamaha takes the one with the least vacuum (with all 4 air screws fully closed) and marks that one as the reference and opens the other 3 to match it. Increasing air flow will lower vacuum.

The idea here is to only open the air screws as much as it takes to get the 4 vacuums balanced. That way, the majority of the air is going through the throttle bodies giving the ECU the max range of adjustment for the automagic idle speed. It is quite likely that Bob's just had two cylinders with the same amount of low vacuum.

If for some reason one of the 4 ports measured a lower vacuum than the one marked as reference, I would make that one be the one that is all the way closed and adjust the other three to it, ignoring the factory paint dot. You just want all 4 to be balanced, and opened as little as possible.
Click to expand...
I just finished a tbs on my '13 and I ran into the problem of 2 cylinders would not come up to the white paint cylinder even when they were all the way in.The Yamaha manual says don't mess with the white painted screw.So,it's ok to move the white painted screw and just use the lowest cylinder as my reference?That's what I was going to do,but I didn't want to go against the service manual and have bad shit happen.

It's not running bad so I just left it the way I found it.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I didn't even look for a paint mark. I just balanced them all with the closest to closed on all of them that I could.

 

Similar threads

J
1300AE Fast idle, shift error code SH__48, intake clean and recondition, bench testing wax motor (gen 1, gen 2 relevant)
Replies
3
Views
1K
Mikesgts1000
Mikesgts1000
MajBach
Starter, relay or battery?
Replies
8
Views
1K
road runner
road runner
Goodman4
Southwest Colorado on the FJR with my nephew
Replies
0
Views
472
Goodman4
Goodman4
J
1K Miles - An honest review !
Replies
17
Views
3K
Gleaming Alloy Air Car
Gleaming Alloy Air Car
Auburn
Ride Report: Heart of Texas Rally
Replies
6
Views
824
chazglenn3
chazglenn3

Latest posts

Top