TBS Tuners Please Tune in....

Hello All,

Question?

I am getting ready to make my own Carb Sync that is suppose to be better(cheaper...Under $5) than the mercury ones(they claim more sensitive).

Here is the link below for the recipe:

https://www.lloyddotson.com/carbsync.html

I was wondering what size tubing do I need to get? So I won't need to attach any adapters to fit the FJR's vacuum ports on the throttle bodies...

THANKS A BUNCH,

WW

My Motion Pro uses 1/8 tubing WW, and they slip right on, no trinkets needed.

:jester:

Bustanut joker said:

My Motion Pro uses 1/8 tubing WW, and they slip right on, no trinkets needed.
:jester:

Click to expand...

Thank You, Very Much BustanutJoker!!

WW

I built one of these years ago, just recently used it to sync the FJR. Works great.

I disagree with the recommendation to build a "double" to sync a four cylinder bike. On the FJR, cylinder 3 is the master, cylinders 1,2, & 4 are synced to it. I connected one end to cylinder 3, then synced the other three cylinders one at a time. Yes, it took a bit more time than it would have using a typical sync tool. On the plus side, it only required five extra minutes, it gives a very accurate sync, and you don't have any risk of heavy metal poisoning.

Highly recommended.

- JimY

Hey Wicked, me again. This time all friendly.

FWIW, when I did my CC install I used 5/32" windshield washer / vacuum tubing.

Seemed like a perfect fit on TB nipples. hope this helps.

SLK50,

Thanks for sharing. Now I am curious... When they quote the windshield washer/vacuum tubing as 5/32.. Are they talking about the exterior hose measurement or interior measurement??? I am guessing interior...All though, 1/8 to 5/32 is only 1/32nd difference.

Slk50 did your tubing slip on easy or really tight??

Bustanut Joker,

How bout that 1/8 tubing?? Really tight?

Oh, thanks again Fellas!!!

Nice to hear from you SLK50(bygones be gone!),

WW

SLK50,

Thanks for sharing. Now I am curious... When they quote the windshield washer/vacuum tubing as 5/32.. Are they talking about the exterior hose measurement or interior measurement??? I am guessing interior...All though, 1/8 to 5/32 is only 1/32nd difference.

Slk50 did your tubing slip on easy or really tight??

Bustanut Joker,

How bout that 1/8 tubing?? Really tight?

Oh, thanks again Fellas!!!

Nice to hear from you SLK50(bygones be gone!),

WW

Hi WW,

Tubing would ordinarily be sized by it's inside diameter, no consideration given to

it's thickness. Fittings would be sized by their outside diameter. Assuming all fittings

are male to fit into the tubing. Hence a 3/16" fitting would fit into 3/16" tubing and so

forth. Tubing is commonly used a little undersized ( 1/32" ) to insure a snug fit and

no leaks. I used a 3/16" drill bit as a visual gauge to size up the ports on my CC

and TB's and purchased check valves ( 3/16" ) and tubing ( 5/32" ) to match.

All connections were smooth yet snug with no undue stress to tubing or fittings.

Tight enough so there's chance of a vacuum leak yet I can still disassemble it if

I have to without breaking any fittings.

Good luck with your project.

2 dubs. The 1/8 th fits tight enough, shouldn't be a problem as theres a bunch out there using it

:jester:

Bustanut joker said:

2 dubs. The 1/8 th fits tight enough, shouldn't be a problem as theres a bunch out there using it
:jester:

Click to expand...

Gunny on that!!

I built my own for about 7 bucks. Used a couple of yardsticks mounted to a board with 1/8 tubing.

Used some old 2cycle motor oil in the tubes - if anything should go wrong, I wouldn't worry about the oil going down into the throttle bodies.

This works so don't waste your tiime and money on mercury.

make your own manometer.

Orient_Express said:

I built my own for about 7 bucks. Used a couple of yardsticks mounted to a board with 1/8 tubing.Used some old 2cycle motor oil in the tubes - if anything should go wrong, I wouldn't worry about the oil going down into the throttle bodies.

This works so don't waste your tiime and money on mercury.

Click to expand...

You cheap Bastage! :lol: I hope you injest 2 cycle oil inta the innards of your high priced 4 cycle engine and the fuker busts it's guts all over your Garage :fuck:

:jester:

[SIZE=10pt]WW[/SIZE]

Even if you stick with the one tube U design --

I'd still recommend calculating the volume (or empirially determining) of the fluid.

Then design some PVC traps to collect the fluid in the event that one of the tubes comes off the vacuum port (without traps -- this will allow the fluid to be drawn into the port if you are unable to shutdown quick enough)

jcyuhn said:

I built one of these years ago, just recently used it to sync the FJR. Works great.
I disagree with the recommendation to build a "double" to sync a four cylinder bike. On the FJR, cylinder 3 is the master, cylinders 1,2, & 4 are synced to it. I connected one end to cylinder 3, then synced the other three cylinders one at a time. Yes, it took a bit more time than it would have using a typical sync tool. On the plus side, it only required five extra minutes, it gives a very accurate sync, and you don't have any risk of heavy metal poisoning.

Highly recommended.

- JimY

Click to expand...

Thanks Guys for the helpful suggestions,

Jcyuhn,

I agree that only two tubes really needed. And it really isn't much more time involved. Rickster your manometer loks really SLICK! I already make my tubed version with the Trans fluid. But I did do what you said on the Volume..THANKS AGAIN FELLAS!!

WW

Rickster said:

WW
Or -- you can make a 4 tube homemade differential manometer Picture link: Clicky

I think I still have the WORD document somewhere -- PM me your email addr, and I'll send it to ya.

Regards,

Rick

Click to expand...

Pretty slick my man... Nice work there and love the trap idea!!

Ok All,

Update. Finished my fist TBS on my 07. For those that haven't done it on their own yet..It is pretty quick and easy and on the 06/07 models you have to remove the Tbar and heat blanket. I used my "home-made" sync as described above. Also, like JimY said...You only need the one meter (with 2 hoses). It worked great.

I did do the little trick with the Vacuum caps(I used some metal twist ties)so I wouldn't lose them.

Am I missing some thing Or is the #2 cylinder vacuum cap a PAIN IN THE ASS to put back on??? Just curious if I was doing this the hard way or

if anyone has any tricks to it??

Also, what tricks have any of you used to re-line up the gas tank to re-install the allen bolts below the bars after propping it up?? I used a piece of 1x2 to pry it up from underneath by the seat like the FAQ BIN offers.

THANKS TBS TUNERS!!

WW

I have to laugh when I see stuff like this. What a bunch of okies! :lol:

QUOTE(Wicked Webby @ Jul 30 2007, 09:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...

Also, what tricks have any of you used to re-line up the gas tank to re-install the allen bolts below the bars after propping it up?? I used a piece of 1x2 to pry it up from underneath by the seat like the FAQ BIN offers.

...

WW

Sounds like you haven't loosened the rear nut and bolt on the rear of the tank. If you slacken the nut, the tank hinges up very easily (no "prying"), and when you lower it, it almost self aligns for the front screws.

mcatrophy said:

Wicked Webby said:

...Also, what tricks have any of you used to re-line up the gas tank to re-install the allen bolts below the bars after propping it up?? I used a piece of 1x2 to pry it up from underneath by the seat like the FAQ BIN offers.

...

WW

Click to expand...

Sounds like you haven't loosened the rear nut and bolt on the rear of the tank. If you slacken the nut, the tank hinges up very easily (no "prying"), and when you lower it, it almost self aligns for the front screws.

Click to expand...

Thanks MCATROPHY..

I will try it that way next tune!

WW