Carefull w/ oil drain bolts

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jtd

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Recently experienced a problem on my '04 Kawi Mean Streak that could apply to the FJR, which I also own: Stripped the oil drain bolt using a torque wrench. I always used a torque wrench on all oil changes. At 28K miles, the bolt stripped - steel drain bolt in aluminum case - go figure. When I explained the problem to a mechanic friend he said "bring it in, I've done a million of them (Helicoil repair).

The hardest part was laying the bike over on its side to get at the bottom of the engine w/ a drill - take off everything you can on the left side and use old tires and blankets for cushion; drain gas and take out battery to lighten. 12 MM x 1.5 Kit cost $87! But it only took 10 minutes and it was done. Coat drill bit with grease to catch shavings. Cut Helicoil spring to same lenth as casing thickness. Twist / break the tension pigtail after insertion w/ the supplied tool. I recommend buying a new (magnetic) drain plug with sharp clean threads and never use a torque wrench on these bolts; always use a new aluminum washer for aluminum on aluminum seal. The new bolt spun right in and tightened nice with 1/8 turn after snug. No leaks.

The Time Sert looked like at good product but it looks like it would require removal of more material for a larger hole. Seemed like if the Helicoil didn't work, then the hole could be made bigger for the Time Sert sleeve, but not the other way around. Helicoil worked great.

 
jtd said:
Recently experienced a problem on my '04 Kawi Mean Streak that could apply to the FJR, which I also own: Stripped the oil drain bolt using a torque wrench. I always used a torque wrench on all oil changes. At 28K miles, the bolt stripped - steel drain bolt in aluminum case - go figure. When I explained the problem to a mechanic friend he said "bring it in, I've done a million of them (Helicoil repair).
The hardest part was laying the bike over on its side to get at the bottom of the engine w/ a drill - take off everything you can on the left side and use old tires and blankets for cushion; drain gas and take out battery to lighten. 12 MM x 1.5 Kit cost $87! But it only took 10 minutes and it was done. Coat drill bit with grease to catch shavings. Cut Helicoil spring to same lenth as casing thickness. Twist / break the tension pigtail after insertion w/ the supplied tool. I recommend buying a new (magnetic) drain plug with sharp clean threads and never use a torque wrench on these bolts; always use a new aluminum washer for aluminum on aluminum seal. The new bolt spun right in and tightened nice with 1/8 turn after snug. No leaks.

The Time Sert looked like at good product but it looks like it would require removal of more material for a larger hole. Seemed like if the Helicoil didn't work, then the hole could be made bigger for the Time Sert sleeve, but not the other way around. Helicoil worked great.
Click to expand...
Yep.. been plenty o' FjrPilot with the same issue.

True fact? I hardly ever use a torque wrench. I'm 51 years old and know the 'feel' for proper tightness. Sure, purists, flame on.. I don't care, nor do my rides have stripped out fasteners.. :fuck:

 
Used a torque wrench the 1st time I changed my oil and while tightening it to specs it just felt odd so I didnt go all the way. Found out later in doing some more research that plenty of FJR pilots have joined the ranks of those who stripped their threads.

Now, as I do with my cars I just tighten it up and check for leaks.

 
dbvolfan said:
Used a torque wrench the 1st time I changed my oil and while tightening it to specs it just felt odd so I didnt go all the way. Found out later in doing some more research that plenty of FJR pilots have joined the ranks of those who stripped their threads.Now, as I do with my cars I just tighten it up and check for leaks.
Click to expand...
+1 gunny. In addition, 39k and I'm on the same crush washer-go figure.

 
It's not the torque wrenches fault...it's the improper torque. The torque wrench only tightens it to the setting you set it at. The oil drain bolt torques in the manual must be too high. Compensate.

But don't blame your 3 wood for a bad slice or hook.

 
wheatonFJR said:
It's not the torque wrenches fault...it's the improper torque. The torque wrench only tightens it to the setting you set it at. The oil drain bolt torques in the manual must be too high. Compensate.
But don't blame your 3 wood for a bad slice or hook.
Click to expand...
Tru dat- I set the torque wrench at 25 ft/lbs- could probably be less even but 25 feels about right. If'n you are really worried, somewhere on this forum there is a petcock type valve that you only have to screw in once..

 
but you have to wonder if the herculean type of tightening that they do at the factory has anything to do with the amount of stripped drain plugs. I agree that the spec in the shop manual is too high but jesus H christ the first change on each of my FJRs took the the 1/2 inch socket with a six food breaker bar and in both cases I was worried that I'd snap the wrench!

approximately 15 oil changes without an issue on the first FJR would discount it but I never tightened to spec either?

 
So do most who have stripped use the HeliCoil as the fix?? I unfortunately had this happen today. I have changed the oil on two different FJRs but never experienced this.

 
Nobody could accuse you of not doing a search before posting - 11 years...

Out of curiosity, were you using a torque wrench to tighten to Yamaha spec?

I have heard of people using Helicoils as well as Timeserts. I think the Timesert is a better product but the OP seemed to indicate that it would require a larger hole?

I also remember reading that someone drilled it out to the next largest size drain bolt available and just retapped for the larger size. Can't remember the details.

Good luck with the repair.

Here's one that used a Timesert...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/170021-stripped-oil-bolt/

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I find torque wrenches too long for this job. In fact, I find my 1/2 " ratchet handle too long. I keep my fingers up close to the axis of (bolt) rotation, where the socket is, if you will, maybe a finger down on the handle shank, and turn it until it feels "good n'tight." That's enough. I'd rather have it a little loose and weep oil than strip the threads. I can always tighten it a little more if it leaks. WBill

 
I use the torque wrench everywhere else on the bike that proper tightness is critical. Never used it on the drain bolt on either FJR. I also reuse the gasket. Hand tighten and have never had a leak.

 
I found when I stripped out the threads using a torque wrench on an oldwing ('83) after further inspection I found that the bolt would only engage half of the threads in the oil pan. I purchased a longer bolt to engage the unused half of the threads and then just hand tightened from then on.

 
This just in from the Dumbass department (that's me):

I use the torque wrench on the drain plug bolts. EVERY TIME.

Here's why:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/163627-4-lessons-costly-but-priceless/?hl=+pumpkin++plug

If you don't have time to read the dribble, I failed to properly tighten the drain plug for my pumpkin on my (then) BRAND new 2014 FJR. About 200 miles thereafter, the plug fell out and I ruined my pumpkin, although I will give a plug (pun intended) to Yamaha for designing a rear end strong enough to run with NO OIL for at least 25 miles at 75 mph (or higher) and not lock up. Used the fill plug as a temporary drain plug, used a fishing cork for a fill plug, and filled it with outboard lower unit oil (no whale jizz available), and rode the dammed thing home 50 plus miles. Yamaha builds tough stuff, man.

Now then, I torqued the drain bolts (oil and rear end) only to 20 ft pounds (35 is ridiculous), but it gets done with the torque wrench. That's more "dumb ass proof" - DAMHIK....

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Same bolt and washer is used on the final drive -- the oil fill bolt. Specified torque at that location is 17 lb-ft.

Maybe the engine sump is made of tougher or thicker aluminum.

If you use a new crush washer each time you could compare the thickness of a new washer with a used (crushed) washer and determine how many degrees to turn the bolt after it first touches.

Knowing the bolt threads per inch you could calculate how far the bolt must turn to crush the washer to the desired thickness.

 

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