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Frame Tee - stripped threads


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#1 Roy Epperson

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 09:08 PM

Not sure if it was me, the shop, the shops or the combo over time :angry2:

It does not matter. The top bolt threads are stripped from the flange attached to the frame. Remove it and went to tighten this afternoon and threads are gone. The bolt threads are fine.

What is the best way to fix? Find a M10 heli coil set or try to find a larger bolt and re-tap?

#2 FJRBluesman

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 09:45 PM

Dang! That stinks. I would guess heli coil would be the way to go. Those T-bar fasteners take some pretty good torque if I recall, like about 52ft.lbs. Did the shop go way over on torque?

On torques that aren't real critical to me, like that T-bar, I usually go a couple or so pounds under torque, just cause that's me. ;)
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#3 SkooterG

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:12 PM

Yeah, you aren't the first with this problem, though I haven't seen any public mea culpas in quite some time. Steel threads into aluminum. Relatively high torque spec. Bad ju-ju! :(

Put me in the camp of 'better to a go a bit low on this bolt' camp. Wish I could give you some good advice on how to proceed now, but it's not my area. I'm sure some will come along with some good advice.

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#4 ahchiu

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:40 PM

There is one on e-bay, this one for $25.00 http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr
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#5 SkooterG

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Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:46 PM

There is 2 on e-bay, this one for $25.00 http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr


For the 'top' or forward bolt, the threads are in the frame. A new T-bar does him no good whatsoever unfortunately.

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#6 lnewlf

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 04:50 AM

longer bolt with a nut and washer ?

#7 JamesK

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 05:06 AM

longer bolt with a nut and washer ?

+1, I started typing that, but didn't post it because I thought I would catch too much flack from the purists :rolleyes:

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#8 RaYzerman19

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 05:14 AM

I believe the torque is 27, not 52. The cupped washers are an advantage here.

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#9 gumba

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 06:34 AM

Gen1-51 Gen2-27 WTF I don't trust any yamaha torque values.

#10 Roy Epperson

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 06:41 AM

longer bolt with a nut and washer ?


Good idea :yahoo: Much safer for a DIYer!

#11 Roy Epperson

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 06:18 PM

longer bolt with a nut and washer ?


Went to the local hardware store and found a M10x1.25x50 fender bolt, nut and lock washer. Drilled out the remaining threads with a 7/16" drill to give some clearance. And through bolted. Plenty of clearance between the end of the bolt to get the nut and washer in place and get a box end wrench on to tighten.

#12 dsmack

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Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:19 PM

I love a story with a happy ending! :yahoo:

Good job...
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#13 Colin24

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 05:16 PM

Had this happen to both my bike and my Dad's bike. (Yeah, I think the specs in the manual are _way_ too high).

Simply drilled the threads out and replaced all three with a fine pitch bolt+nut. used the smallest drill possible that would remove the rest of the threads then found the biggest bolt I could to fill the hole. (Sorry, can't remember what size exactly). Made sure to used a good wide heavy duty washer on both the bolt head side and the nut side.

The only hassle is trying to get my fingers underneath to hold the nut in place long enough to get the threads of the bolt started. Fiddly work, but can be done.

Did this fix probably in the first or second year I had the bike (its a first year 05 model). So I figure (as a guess) I have 75000 miles and at least 5 years with this repair and have had no problems at all.

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