2008 AE clutch issue

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Denis99

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Joined
Oct 13, 2014
Messages
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Location
UK
Hi

I have recently bought a low mileage 2008 AE model.

Very pleased with it.

However, today I had my first problem with it.

Started the bike up as normal, and rode out of my drive.

The rpm's seemed a little higher than normal for when the bike is cold, but it rode ok.

After 1.5 miles ans waiting at some traffic lights, the clutch felt like it was dragging and the yellow light came on indicating that I should change gear.

I placed the bike in neutral at the sign of the warning light.

I could not shift into 1st gear after that.

Turned the engine off and restarted the bike, thinking it was the sidestand switch playing up, I tried to select 1st gear with the side stand down and the engine running.

The bike just would not shift into 1st at all.

Eventually I got the bike started and shifted into 1st gear, just crawled back home in 1st gear.

I'm sure I saw an error code 53 or 54 flash up on the display.

Contacted the dealer who sold me the bike, they said no problem and would pick the bike up this afternoon ( which they have done).

When they came to pick the bike up, it started as normal and would shift in and out of first and back to neutral no problem.

Anyone else have a similar problem? once the dealer has had a chance to look at it I'll report back.

I did liberally apply contact cleaner to the sidestand switch etc.

 
While I don't have a cause or a cure, mine does act up on occasion, and is not happy and the dreaded yellow light comes on or flashes. Usually for me, a restart of the motor has set it right again.

I, of course, have, ahemm, have never left the side stand down and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't shift .
no.gif


 
There's no SH__53 or 54.

Sh__51_1.jpg


Sh__51_2.jpg


Nothing to do with the side-stand switch.

If nothing is broken or loose ...

If the bike had been standing for a long time, maybe some stiffness/corrosion in the operating mechanism.

If it fixed itself, it was most likely an electrical connection that had damp or corrosion in it, or could possibly be a ground spider issue. I suggest checking all connectors particularly those associated with the gear-change stuff.

If the bike had been standing for a long time, maybe some stiffness/corrosion in the operating mechanism.

Try putting the bike on its centre stand and running it up and down the gears a few times, make sure the gear changes are snappy.

 
Thanks,

I think it was error code 51 , I need glasses for near sight and don't ride with them on.

Yellow blinking light with a message to SHIFT.

Dealer has picked the bike up, and will check it over.

I'll let you know what they find.

 
Just by way of an update on the issue.

Contacted my dealer today, he found the problem to be too high an idle speed.

He has adjusted the idle speed to 1000 - 1100 rpm and everything is fine.

If only I had known that... still posting it here for others who might have a similar issue.

I'll have to have a look for the idle adjustment dial now.

 
Just by way of an update on the issue.
Contacted my dealer today, he found the problem to be too high an idle speed.

He has adjusted the idle speed to 1000 - 1100 rpm and everything is fine.

If only I had known that... still posting it here for others who might have a similar issue.

I'll have to have a look for the idle adjustment dial now.
I'm a little curious about the error code. "SH__48" says "Improper idling speed", not the "SH__51" you saw. Unless your eyes are really bad
nerdsmiley.png
.

If you'd said "SH__48", about three hundred of us would have replied to tell you what to do
omg2.gif
.

Anyway, I hope it's fixed.

 
Thanks mcatrophy.

My eyes and my memory by the looks of it.

To be honest I got in a bit of a flap when the bike wouldn't engage gear , I created a bit of a traffic issue at the lights.

SH 48 though , thats what the dealer told me when they plugged their diagnostic software in.

Everything will be fine now , thanks for all the info etc

 
Thanks mcatrophy.
My eyes and my memory by the looks of it.

To be honest I got in a bit of a flap when the bike wouldn't engage gear , I created a bit of a traffic issue at the lights.

SH 48 though , thats what the dealer told me when they plugged their diagnostic software in.

Everything will be fine now , thanks for all the info etc
Sounds good.

I've noticed car drivers get very impatient with bikes that stall or otherwise hold them up. Particularly if you've just filtered to the front of the queue.

Your flap is understandable, BTDT.

 
The dealer delivered the bike back to me, excellent service from the dealer that sold me the bike. 100 mile round trip to pick it up, run the diagnostics and return to me explaining the issue.

Went for a ride, and all is well again.

Good job I have got the AS model, as the gear shift stub for the foot control fell off. I had taken it off and re positioned it, obviously I didn't put enough threadlock on the thread as it has gone.

Stopped and then used the paddle shifters to get home.

I have since put a bolt with two lock nuts on either side to prevent it falling off again.

Salt on the roads now in the UK, so bike will sit in the garage for a while.

 
The dealer delivered the bike back to me, excellent service from the dealer that sold me the bike. 100 mile round trip to pick it up, run the diagnostics and return to me explaining the issue.
Went for a ride, and all is well again.

Good job I have got the AS model, as the gear shift stub for the foot control fell off. I had taken it off and re positioned it, obviously I didn't put enough threadlock on the thread as it has gone.

Stopped and then used the paddle shifters to get home.

I have since put a bolt with two lock nuts on either side to prevent it falling off again.

Salt on the roads now in the UK, so bike will sit in the garage for a while.
Good to hear all is well.
I keep riding through road salt. The FJR doesn't suffer too much, particularly if you can hose it down, especially the underside.

Both of my Gen IIs went through three winters each, ridden unless there was ice on my drive or road, or snow was actually falling. A bit of superficial rust on the centre-stand, rust on the brake discs (clears next time you ride), some dulling of bright screw heads, that's about it. But if you do, make sure the rear suspension is serviced properly, it has been known to seize with catastrophic results. Rare, but it has happened.

I am also in the habit of using copper grease on any bolt threads I come across. Don't know how much good it does, but on my first, the wheel ABS sensors seized (the bodies, not the bolts) because I simply left them until too late; on my second I used the copper grease and they remained free. I've used some on my 14 already. And on many other bolt threads.

And installed my heated vest controller :) .

Bring it on ...

 
Bring it on ...
Mr. Trophy, you say "bring it on ..." but have your forgotten your winter of a few years back?
I also said
... unless there was ice on my drive or road, or snow was actually falling. ...Bring it on ...
Perhaps I should have added "or when snow, hail, fog etc is/are forecast and likely to make riding impossible for me", but I assumed this would be obvious to the intelligent readers of this Forum. I forgot about the other readers ;) , so I apologise.
Anyway, I forget most stuff that goes on, whether it be weather or whether it be our reader's intelligence. I've got a feeling it's something to do with my age, but I can't really remember ...

I do remember one time on my way to Spain, I had to squeeze the bike out within an hour or so from when one lot of snow had melted until the next lot was due. Without that thaw window, I'd have missed out on a great ride (and lost money in prepaid ferry fares, hotel bookings and the like).

 
Mcatrophy,

I will have a look at the front and rear abs sensors this weekend.

Is it just a case of removing the bolts, and a general clean of the sensor unit?

Do I grease the internal parts of the sensor?

I use copper grease on the bolts as normal.

Thanks.

 
Mcatrophy,
I will have a look at the front and rear abs sensors this weekend.

Is it just a case of removing the bolts, and a general clean of the sensor unit?

Do I grease the internal parts of the sensor?

I use copper grease on the bolts as normal.

Thanks.
Undo the screw, the sensor should pull out on its fixing plate. If it's tight, try twisting the plate to and fro a bit as you pull. Take care not to damage the wire.
Just smear a smidgen of grease round the sensor and on the face of the fixing plate. The grease won't affect operation, even if thick and over the sensor's end, but no need to go over-board, and may prevent proper seating if thick.

Push the sensor back in, wiggle it to smooth and thin out the grease on the fixing plate, do up the screw. Check after a few hundred miles to see that it's still tight.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Removed both the front and rear abs sensors this morning.

No corrosion, but they were both in very solidly.

Cleaned the back plate and all the parts.

Reassembled with a smear of ACF50 grease.

Should make it easier to remove next time.

Thanks for the advice etc.

 
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