Lithium-Soap-Based Grease

[FJRski_2007]

Page 3-42 of the Service Manual says to use Lithium Soap Based Grease for lubricating levers, pedals, sidestand. Where can I get such grease? Is this someting I can get at Home Depot or Auto Zone?

Thanks.

 

[RaYzerman19]

That is just general purpose grease, most of which are soap based. Many of us upgrade to something better, e.g., Mobil 1 synthetic grease. For your final drive splines and u-joint, use Honda Moly 60 paste because they can generate a lot of heat.

 

[Burnspot]

Sears, NAPA, typical auto part stores, yes...pretty common stuff. Comes in a tube about 8" long or so...at least the stuff I get.

 

[FJRski_2007]

Thanks for the info. I called Auto Zone and Pep Boys and they had no idea what I was asking.

I wonder if this gease is something that dirt and dust wont stick to as much?

I also called Home Depot and they dont have Lithium Soap Based Grease. Is there some other name that this product might be called?

Should it be called somewhere on the bottle "Lithium Soap Grease"?

 

[Burnspot]

Thanks for the info. I called Auto Zone and Pep Boys and they had no idea what I was asking.

I wonder if this gease is something that dirt and dust wont stick to as much?

I also called Home Depot and they dont have Lithium Soap Based Grease. Is there some other name that this product might be called?

The auto part stores probably have it, but the clerks aren't up with the full name of that grease. It commonly comes in a two pack of tubes. Sears has a single pack that includes a metal pump with it in the tool section.

 

[FJRski_2007]

Would this work?

https://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=SL3151&S=Y

 

[FJRski_2007]

Also, I'm assuming that Lithium Soap Based Grease should be waterproof, since I will be using it on levers, pedals and sidestand.

 

[Fred W]

To find it, remove the words "soap" and "based" in your google search

 

[FJReady]

Lucas Oil Grease web page

I posted this because my local Home Depot carries Lucas grease products, regular lithium soap stuff, marine stuff, super sticky stuff and wheel bearing grease.

 

[FarWestFastEddie]

Would this work?

https://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=SL3151&S=Y

Yes. Also known as White Lithium Grease. We use it where I spend my days. Good Stuff.

FWFE

 

[FJRski_2007]

Local ACE store has this one.

https://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1295693

This should work. Thank you everyone for your replies.

 

[FJRski_2007]

I called Lucas Oil company and it appears that I should use this product.

https://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=46&catid=14&loc=show&headTitle=%20-%20Red%20'N'%20Tacky%20Grease

 

[Geezer]

I called Lucas Oil company and it appears that I should use this product.

https://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=46&catid=14&loc=show&headTitle=%20-%20Red%20'N'%20Tacky%20Grease

I use that sticky stuff once in a while, but not for everything where lithium grease is called for. It can be too sticky for things like the clutch and brake levers and the shift linkage.

As others have said, any good grease will be fine. I use Valvoline synthetic because it was what the store had in stock last time I needed to buy some. You can buy it in the tubes which are intended for a grease gun, but I find the tub more convenient to dip into.

 

[ULEWZ]

I use the Maxima waterproof Lithium grease from Cyclegear:

Maxima Grease Linky

 

[FJRski_2007]

Thanks

I use the Maxima waterproof Lithium grease from Cyclegear:

Maxima Grease Linky

 

[ionbeam]

Here are a couple of 'used' posts that I wrote in days gone past.

Greases have a number of characteristics, one biggie is the Drop Point. When soap-based grease is heated until a critical temperature is reached the gel structure breaks down, and the grease becomes liquid. When grease is heated above the Drop point and then allowed to cool it usually does not fully regain its grease consistency therefore it will not lubricate.

Lithium-soap greases have very good stability and good water resistance. They have a buttery texture and are a brownish-red color. The 'soap' is actually a metallic salt resulting from the interaction of fatty acids or esters typically with an alkali. Lithium soap greases have a Drop point of ~350ºF. LiSoap grease is a good general purpose lubricant/protectant for low temperature and wet environments.

Moly Paste has a non melting, lubricating base containing a high percentage of low-friction molybdenum disulfide. It is a thick paste type grease that has a temperature range up to 750°F when in contact with air. Moly paste 'plates' the work surfaces with moly disulfide which remains and protects working surfaces even if the grease gets squeezed out. Moly also fills microscopic voids in surfaces. Moly has a film strength of 300,000 psi and adheres tenaciously to metal surfaces. Moly paste is almost always blue to black in color. One last trait is that moly does not fling off at high speeds.

Wheel Bearing Grease is also a lithium complex grease which contains petroleum base oils. The primary application for it is in high temperature operations such as wheel bearings. It may be used at continuous operating temperatures up to 325°F. It prevents rust and corrosion, reduces wear, and provides extreme pressure protection. Dropping point is ~500° F. Color typically white.

T120TT then asked:

Can wheel bearing grease be safely substituted for lithium soap based grease of a lower Drop point? I assume the reverse wouldn't be true. Correct?

Down the slippery slope.....

Generally you can substitute white for red-brown grease in non critical applications when the temperatures will be well below the drop point, thickness (viscosity) isn't critical and water exposure will be minimal. When da BIG BOOK says Moly, use it.

Soap based greases are generally in a family of 'short fiber greases'. Most soap-thickener fibers are microscopic and the grease appears smooth; if the fiber bundles are large enough to be seen, the grease appears fibrous. The texture of a grease is observed when a small portion of it is pressed together and then slowly drawn apart. Texture can be described as:

• Brittle — ruptures or crumbles when compressed
• Buttery — separates in short peaks with no visible fibers
• Long Fibers — stretches or strings out into a single bundle of fibers
• Resilient — withstands a moderate compression without permanent deformation or rupture
• Short Fibers — short break-off with evidence of fibers
• Stringy — stretches or strings out into long fine threads, but with no evidence of fiber structure

Other significant differences between similar appearing grease can be

Penetration (mechanical, not www.xxx)

Oil separation

Viscosity @ 40°C & 100°C

Oxidation resistance

Resistance to water

3 & 4 ball wear ratings

[common sense] Substituting grease for side stands, pivot points and perhaps lightly loaded bearings should be fine. It gets a bit more adventurous at the higher loaded steering head ball bearings as opposed to roller bearings. [/common sense]

 

[FJRski_2007]

Thanks for the info. Why does Yamaha FHJ manual say to use Lithium Soap based Grease, where not one person at Pep Boy, ACE, Auto Zone have a clue of what it is. NOT ONE. I called places, I had a full day to play around with this stupid questions and I was shocked to learn that I called stores that sell grease and not one store out of 12 knew what it was.

Why would Yamaha put in the manual to use SOAP Based Grease where no where in the stores, does the product say Soap Based Grease.

There are many WHite Lithium Products.

Here are a couple of 'used' posts that I wrote in days gone past.

Greases have a number of characteristics, one biggie is the Drop Point. When soap-based grease is heated until a critical temperature is reached the gel structure breaks down, and the grease becomes liquid. When grease is heated above the Drop point and then allowed to cool it usually does not fully regain its grease consistency therefore it will not lubricate.

Lithium-soap greases have very good stability and good water resistance. They have a buttery texture and are a brownish-red color. The 'soap' is actually a metallic salt resulting from the interaction of fatty acids or esters typically with an alkali. Lithium soap greases have a Drop point of ~350ºF. LiSoap grease is a good general purpose lubricant/protectant for low temperature and wet environments.

Moly Paste has a non melting, lubricating base containing a high percentage of low-friction molybdenum disulfide. It is a thick paste type grease that has a temperature range up to 750°F when in contact with air. Moly paste 'plates' the work surfaces with moly disulfide which remains and protects working surfaces even if the grease gets squeezed out. Moly also fills microscopic voids in surfaces. Moly has a film strength of 300,000 psi and adheres tenaciously to metal surfaces. Moly paste is almost always blue to black in color. One last trait is that moly does not fling off at high speeds.

Wheel Bearing Grease is also a lithium complex grease which contains petroleum base oils. The primary application for it is in high temperature operations such as wheel bearings. It may be used at continuous operating temperatures up to 325°F. It prevents rust and corrosion, reduces wear, and provides extreme pressure protection. Dropping point is ~500° F. Color typically white.

T120TT then asked:

Can wheel bearing grease be safely substituted for lithium soap based grease of a lower Drop point? I assume the reverse wouldn't be true. Correct?

Down the slippery slope.....

Generally you can substitute white for red-brown grease in non critical applications when the temperatures will be well below the drop point, thickness (viscosity) isn't critical and water exposure will be minimal. When da BIG BOOK says Moly, use it.

Soap based greases are generally in a family of 'short fiber greases'. Most soap-thickener fibers are microscopic and the grease appears smooth; if the fiber bundles are large enough to be seen, the grease appears fibrous. The texture of a grease is observed when a small portion of it is pressed together and then slowly drawn apart. Texture can be described as:

• Brittle — ruptures or crumbles when compressed
• Buttery — separates in short peaks with no visible fibers
• Long Fibers — stretches or strings out into a single bundle of fibers
• Resilient — withstands a moderate compression without permanent deformation or rupture
• Short Fibers — short break-off with evidence of fibers
• Stringy — stretches or strings out into long fine threads, but with no evidence of fiber structure

Other significant differences between similar appearing grease can be

Penetration (mechanical, not www.xxx)

Oil separation

Viscosity @ 40°C & 100°C

Oxidation resistance

Resistance to water

3 & 4 ball wear ratings

[common sense] Substituting grease for side stands, pivot points and perhaps lightly loaded bearings should be fine. It gets a bit more adventurous at the higher loaded steering head ball bearings as opposed to roller bearings. [/common sense]

 

[ionbeam]

...Why does Yamaha FHJ manual say to use Lithium Soap based Grease, where not one person at Pep Boy, ACE, Auto Zone have a clue of what it is...

Why would Yamaha put in the manual to use SOAP Based Grease where no where in the stores, does the product say Soap Based Grease...

The FSM has an obligation to be technically correct for professional users.

I remember back in the day where the automotive counter help were gear-heads working at the speed shop to get discounts on parts for their motor vehicle projects. They wuz smart fellers about parts, gas, grease, gears and were very helpful. The new wave of 'would you like fries with that?' counter drones -- not so much. If it can't be looked up in the computer, without a lot of work or imagination they aren't gonna know nuttin.

For most chassis lubrication where the parts aren't experiencing high bearing pressure or high temperature the first choice would be brownish-redish Li Soap Grease for its water resistance, followed by plain old white wheel bearing grease. You should have no problem finding either in a tub at any automotive shop -- as long as you don't ask the help(?) for help.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Thanks Alan, I learned something new today.

Can I go home now?