07 FJR started feeling "Mushy"

[Goodman4]

I wish I had a better way to describe this but near the end of the last tires the back started feeling mushy. Sometimes it feels ok, but most of time on straights it feels a little like the air pressure is really low. My wife noticed it when she rode on the back and she first described it as "mushy". It feels ok on the corners to me, but it certainly doesn't instill confidence like a new set of tires usually does. I have pulled over a couple times thinking I had a flat. Other times I have felt a little like I'm on gravel or something with weird traction.

Specifics - 34,600 miles (27 k put on by me in the last 4 years). Last tires were the combo of Bridgestone Battlax T30's on the front and PR2's on the rear. I actually think this was my favorite set of tires but I usually run Pirelli. Because it felt "mushy" and was a little cupped but not really bad, I went ahead and had the shop change the tires and I went back to Pirellis with 5600 miles on the tires.

I had them check everything and change the final drive fluid. When I picked it up I could tell it was no better at all if not worse. I went back over and he said he checked the wheel bearings and everything he could. He thought it was fine. I do trust him and he usually does a good job for me. I usually run 41 psi in both tires, and have tried going up to 43 in the rear to see if that helps, but it doesn't.

Could this be suspension related? The mechanic said he didn't think the swing arm bearing could be a factor on the FJR. I'm about to think it might be my imagination now and I'm just expanding my existing mental problems. Anything else I should check?

 

[MrZappo]

Have you replaced the rear shock? It was toast about 10,000 miles ago.

 

[RossKean]

As MrZappo suggests, the rear shock isn't as fresh as it once was. While not likely dead at this point, it certainly doesn't work as well as it might. Is it set on "hard" (preload)? If not, give that a try. Adjust the "rebound damping" by rotating anticlockwise. A quarter turn at a time. (Check your manual) If you haven't done either of these, I expect you'll see a big improvement. (Although not as much improvement you would see with a new shock; especially an aftermarket one.) Ride will be harsher but the mushiness will get better.

While swingarm bearings and relay arm bearings may be in need of service, I doubt that they would be major contributors to the mushy feeling.

Edit: If you haven't already done so, have a look to make sure you don't have a broken spring! Is ride height the same as it has always been?

 

[escapefjrtist]

I'd be inclined to blame the shock.

Any other recent changes, dampening adjustments, hard/soft lever?

--G

 

[Goodman4]

Fred W showed me here on the forum how to dial in the suspension about 3 years ago and that made a lot of difference, but most of that was with the front. I haven't touched any suspension settings since then and always ride with it on the "hard" setting. I have not noticed a change in ride height. I will play with the rebound dampening on the rear tomorrow. In the meantime I will start reading old threads about replacement shocks. I know when I first got the FJR the aftermarket shock was highly recommended but very expensive.

 

[RossKean]

Play with the rear shock settings as I described. I think you will be much happier with it. (Is the preload set on "hard"?)

 

[Goodman4]

Play with the rear shock settings as I described. I think you will be much happier with it. (Is the preload set on "hard"?)

Yes, I always ride with the preload setting on hard.

 

[BigOgre]

I know when I first got the FJR the aftermarket shock was highly recommended but very expensive.

If you do end up going that route don't rule out a new OEM Gen III shock. Many have reported good results with it at a much lower cost.

 

[Fred W]

Best way I've found to set the shock rebound damping is to put the bike on the sidestand and stand on the right side of the bike. Push down on the rider's right footpeg (with your foot) to shift the weight onto the shock and then release it. When the shock rebounds watch to see if it overshoots at the top and then settles back down, or if it just comes to a smooth stop (which is what you want).

Take out damping (turn clicker CCW viewed from the bottom of the shock) until you see it overshoot, then add back just enough damping to get that smooth stop. Any more than that will result in the shock packing up over a series of bumps which will alter the geometry and make it feel mushy.

When the shock is shot you won't get enough damping. It will always overshoot at the top regardless of how much damping you try to dial in.

Hope that helps.

 

[MrZappo]

Best solution for a night and day difference is something like a Penske 8983 sprung for your weight ... Period ...

There is a lot of good advice in this thread and everyone is recommending tuning in addition to replacement ...

I agree with all of this but it should be clear that NO AMOUNT OF TUNING will help you in any way if the shock is shot ... Which it is. Guaranteed ... The stock shock is sprung for a 170 pound Japanese test rider with no luggage ... 30,000 miles is way past the design limitation of that stock unit ... Even top quality aftermarket shocks sometimes need a rebuild at that interval ...

If you put a quality aftermarket shock on that thing, it will perform and you will be happy ... If you put a new stock shock on, it will be better but not optimal. Some have had luck using a gen3 shock which is valid as well as they are superior to the gen 1 and 2 stocker ...

To sum it up, dont expect anything from the shock you are currently running ...

 

[CAJW]

Penske 8983. Largest single investment I put into my FJR and the most dramatic improvement. You will not be disappointed!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Echoing BigOgre...if an aftermarket $$$hock is out of the question, consider a new [or lightly used] GEN III shock as budget replacement. Nice improvement w/o spending a ton.

Good luck!

--G

 

[Mihalis fjr]

It looks good..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-YAMAHA-FJR-1300A-REAR-SHOCK-ABSORBER-/262644972492?hash=item3d26dc3bcc:g:BesAAOSwAuZX6g2Q&vxp=mtr

 

[Fred W]

Nice find. $205 for a brand new 3rd Gen shock looks like a pretty good deal to me. I'd ask how many miles it has on it first though.

 

[Goodman4]

I was having trouble knowing what to feel for in testing the shock, so I took it by the shop today. He agreed with my observation that it didn't really seem to be overshooting any even when it was loosened all the way down. But he also agreed that it was way too soft at that setting. I dialed it up most of the way and it was very firm. Then we dialed back a few clicks and it rose slower than I would have expected, but he said I'd like it and he was right. It feels pretty good so far.

I didn't get to ride enough tonight to be convinced that the problem is fixed, but I am optimistic. I am headed out of the country for a week so I won't get to test any more for a while but I didn't want to leave all of you that have helped thinking I had bailed on the thread.

My mechanic agreed that I would really like the Gen 3 shock and he quoted a price to install it of $200 bucks. I don't think I'm going to jump on either the Gen 3 shock or the Penske yet, but I'm gonna think about it again after the daughter's wedding in March.

 

[Spud]

I found a low miles Gen 3 shock at a bargain and replaced my stock shock which was done (I think it was around 50K I had on it). Really do notice the difference, bike tracks much better through corners. Consider DIY on the replacement, it really isn't all that hard. I'm no pro mechanic but think I did it in about an hour or so.