Auxiliary tank mount project

[Specter]

I decided to get to work and figure out how to mount the 3 gallon Tourtank in the garage on my '05. After overthinking it quite a few times, I came up with a simple way of mounting it to the existing GIVI top case rack. Requires no modifications to the bike, and it would work with a 4 gallon model too.

There really isn't much to it. It is constructed from two cross members made from 1.5" x 3/16" aluminum bar stock, attached to the GIVI rack with 1/4" x 1" x 1.5" u-bolts. The stock Tourtank straps bolt to these. When the tank is in the straps and everything is snug, it is very rigid and anchored. The GIVI lid clears the cap at full open too. It does require leaving the back seat off, but I'll only use on solo rides anyway. The brown paper is a pattern for a tonneau cover I'll fit over the opening to keep out the elements.

Haven't done the plumbing and tank drilling yet. Some more pictures at the link.

https://good-times.webshots.com/album/56902...host=good-times

 

[dcarver]

No worries about it sliding down the rails?

 

[Specter]

No worries about it sliding down the rails?

It shouldn't slide, as the rails angle out, and the U-bolts are set out the widest part before the curves so they hve nowhere to go. I put some pretty heavy forces on it to see if it would shift, and it seems to be really solid. I'm going to give it a few test runs this week after I replace the nuts with locking ones.

 

[dcarver]

Pretty cool then, keep us posted.

Sometimes KISS is really best.

I'm not running the Givi mount system, so it won't work for me, but for others this might be the closest to a 'Aux tank on the backseat of a GoldWing' for an FJR.

 

[fljab]

I followed the link to your pics; is that a regular compressed air QD you're going to with the fuel line? Just curious...

I guess that way you can unplug from the tank quickly and the male end (to the tank) should/will stop flow. What valves did you use and where did you place them in the system?

 

[Specter]

I followed the link to your pics; is that a regular compressed air QD you're going to with the fuel line? Just curious...
I guess that way you can unplug from the tank quickly and the male end (to the tank) should/will stop flow. What valves did you use and where did you place them in the system?

I haven't done any bike plumbing yet. Don't use an air connector.The hose and connector on my tank were from the installation on my Concours. the connector is a quick release connector used for high pressure fuel and hydraulics. it has Viton seals so it is gas proof. It is a bit of overkill, but the small MC units look a little fragile. Here is a picture of the connector and valve assembly, when it was on the Connie

 

[Canadian FJR]

I agree, keep it simple.

Canadian FJR

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

I agree, keep it simple.
[img ]https://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af207/scottcameron/S3600013.jpg[/img]

Canadian FJR

Dude, I can't see Mike's bike when yours is in the way like that!

 

[Canadian FJR]

It actually was in front most of that trip

Canadian FJR

 

[user 213]

I followed the link to your pics; is that a regular compressed air QD you're going to with the fuel line? Just curious...
I guess that way you can unplug from the tank quickly and the male end (to the tank) should/will stop flow. What valves did you use and where did you place them in the system?

The simple way for fuel line connections is a Marine Dry Break Fitting. They are used on outboard motors commonly and are fairly inexpensive. They come in different styles to match different OEMs. Nissan and Chrysler-Force are the most commonly used styles for moto use on fuel cells. These are brass fittings designed for gasoline use. Do NOT use air fittings. Or any plastic fittings, regardless of what moron or company says they work fine. Plastic will fail, and usually in an inopportune moment.

Check out the "installing a fuel cell" links on www.fjr1300.info And the drilling the tank for a bulkhead fitting links too. They are all at the Keyword index page.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Do NOT use air fittings. Or any plastic fittings, regardless of what moron or company says they work fine. Plastic will fail, and usually in an inopportune moment.

A search of "Motion Pro"+fuel will yield quite a few posts from "morons" endorsing quick disconnect fittings made by Colder Products Company®. I used to work for the custom injection molder where the Delrin®/acetal or polyoxymethylene (POM) bodies were made. I repaired some of their molds. I am a big supporter of Colder Products. But, I had one of their fittings fail on me. I wish them well, but I have to back-up Eric in this one.

Use metal, marine grade quick-disconnect fittings.

 

[fljab]

The simple way for fuel line connections is a Marine Dry Break Fitting. They are used on outboard motors commonly and are fairly inexpensive. They come in different styles to match different OEMs. Nissan and Chrysler-Force are the most commonly used styles for moto use on fuel cells.

Great info; thanks! I want to add some fuel capacity for my FJR and looking at the ways to do it. On my other bike I've used a Summit tank - cheap to buy but you have to come up with all the fittings and mounts. I did not use a QD of any kind and basically had to drain the main tank to install/remove thus the interest in the correct style for that.

 

[pinhead]

I'm not running the Givi mount system, so it won't work for me...

Why is that, Don? Is it because the stock hand holds are not round and wouldn't mate perfectly with the U-bolts, or because the stock hand holds are weaker?

 

[Specter]

Project update:

My original mounts were made from 1.5" x .25" aluminum bar stock I had around. This had been working well for more than 15,000 miles, until a section of hard washboard road last weekend. The lower bar cracked and separated between the tank bolt and the Givi rack. The tank was still well anchored, but I continued home without refilling it. I suspect the aluminum flexed a lot, and cracked from fatigue. Aluminum fatigues and cracks much more easily than steel.

I fabricated new supports from 1.5 x 3/16 steel. Much stiffer, not much more weight, and should last.

For those who may be wondering, I carefully inspected my subframe too, and it is In great shape.