bike stalls

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mrgrease

Active member
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
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Location
Canton, OH
Looking for some input.

On my 2005 FJR, I just had the dealer replace the TPS a month ago, I now have a problem, when I drop the bike into 1st, it stalls. hit the start button again(while in gear), sometimes nothing, sometimes I have to hit the start button twice. It seems like it only happens when the bike is cold, or not fully warmed up. When the bike is up to normal operating temp, no probs, no stall, runs like a champ.

Could this be one of the many sensors, about to shat the bed, or something easier. Is there a clutch engage, or disengage sensor?? maybe temp related??

I previously had some throttle probs, and assumed they were related to the TPS. I don't know if this is TPS related, but, it started after the replacement.

thanks

 
Sounds like the side stand switch. I'm not sure why it's okay when it's warm though.

 
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I concur. You tell your dealer that your bike stalling is a safety issue and it needs to be solved. There are members here who've had their bike stall at low speeds in parking lots and it caused the bike to fall. Stalling is NOT normal for any bike (Well, maybe old Brit bikes! <_< :lol: ), the dealer needs to make it right.

 
Amen on the safety issue! Take it back and tell the dealer to fix it! I had a bike last year (not a FJR, but a big 800 lb cruiser) I went to take off, the bike stalled while I was making a slight turn. When it stalled it caught me totally off guard, I went over with the bike and broke 3 ribs. I also messed my left ankle up and thought it was going to be broken while going down, what saved my leg and ankle was the crash guards that came with the bike.

Get that bad boy fixed as soon as you can.

Good Luck, clutchless1

 
Ah another problem with the tps replacement causing yet another.

Nope, mines gonna stay away from that deal until I have an issue with it.

:jester:

 
more problems, only different now..........I posted this on another fudger board, hope for more input here

I'm sure this was probably covered somewhere on the site, but, here goes it........I recently had the TPS replaced on my "05" fudger, due to low speed/ low gear cutting out. After the replacement, I noticed a continued miss, cut out....WTH?? I tried the sidestand switch, took it apart, cleaned the contacts, made sure the spring was in good shape, put it back together, no more slow speed miss/ cut out. All seemed well, until today, out for a 200 mile jaunt, crank up the revs, at about 7000-7500 the motor misses for a split second, quite frankly scared the hell out of me, cranked it back up in third gear, 7500 rpms , missed again, WTH? almost like someone shut the key off for a split second, then turned it back on, but the power is still on during the cut out, I then ran it up slowly to 7000, 7500, 8000, 8500, shift, no prob. checked the diag screen, nothing showing.

Ideas??

maybe a faulty TPS AGAIN?

I just replaced the plugs, air filter, and did a TBS.

a lil frustrated and thinking about parting ways with the "best sport tourer"

Thanks

 
What was the engine temp when you cranked it up to 7500 the first two times? I know it had to be warm the last time. Sounds like a rev limiter, or fuel cutoff.

 
I had been riding it for the better part of 3 hours prior to that happening, and the temp showed 2 bars

 
To me, it sounds like a bad TPS. That's what mine did when it went - started out with very brief (milliseconds) cutout at what I thought was a certain rpm, but was really a certain throttle position where the TPS was bad. It got worse in a relatively quick amount of time with other symptoms.

My swag is that you either got a bad TPS, or that the did not calibrate it correctly when replacing it for the first time. You can easily diagnose the latter by using the diagnostic screen if you have a shop manual. You MAY be able to diagnose if it's a bad TPS by (first scenario) by using the diagnostic screen also.

You got any more info? Miles on bike? Did you experience ANY problems before the TPS was replaced for the first time, or have all problems occurred since?

 
more problems, only different now..........I posted this on another fudger board, hope for more input here
I'm sure this was probably covered somewhere on the site, but, here goes it........I recently had the TPS replaced on my "05" fudger, due to low speed/ low gear cutting out. After the replacement, I noticed a continued miss, cut out....WTH?? I tried the sidestand switch, took it apart, cleaned the contacts, made sure the spring was in good shape, put it back together, no more slow speed miss/ cut out. All seemed well, until today, out for a 200 mile jaunt, crank up the revs, at about 7000-7500 the motor misses for a split second, quite frankly scared the hell out of me, cranked it back up in third gear, 7500 rpms , missed again, WTH? almost like someone shut the key off for a split second, then turned it back on, but the power is still on during the cut out, I then ran it up slowly to 7000, 7500, 8000, 8500, shift, no prob. checked the diag screen, nothing showing.

Ideas??

maybe a faulty TPS AGAIN?

I just replaced the plugs, air filter, and did a TBS.

a lil frustrated and thinking about parting ways with the "best sport tourer"

Thanks
Hi Grease, I feel your frustration. I know it's where do you start looking for something like this? When I get upset I'll go back to the KIS theory (keep it simple). First be absolutely sure you actually have a problem before doing anything, sometimes we create more problems by trying to fix something that's not that bad or non existant. You want to try taping the sidestand up to the frame and run the bike again to see if the same thing happens again? It may be something as dumb as a weak sidestand spring, if you do this remember when you stop the sidestand is taped in the up position. Feel the need to go farther? Just a few ideas for you.

Because this problem could very well lie within the masses of electrical connectors, sensors, switches, or just about anything else on the bike means it may be hard to find and fix. Now, you say the engine didn't do this when you brought the rev's up slowly? This could be a balance problem within the air fuel mixture, I say could because I'm trying to keep it simple. Have you ever done a throttle sync to the bike? If no, I would start here. What's the worst you could do, make the bike run smoother?

If you do decide to do a sync, While you're in there I would also check every vacuum hose I could see to be sure they're not starting to break down and show signs of cracking or splitting. I have my reasons for checking the hoses, but to explain them now I would end up writing a book. Other things I would check while at the top end of the engine is for leaking throttle body joints or hoses in and around the throttle body's, manifolds.

Because you had the TPS Sensor replaced and you didn't do it, I would check the TPS sensor coupler. Even if things look fine I would use some electrical grease in the coupler connectors and refasten it together, be sure when they reconnected the connector this didn't cause any of the wires in either side of the connector halfs to be pushed back and out, causing them to not make a good connection.

I'm not some rocket scientist, but I do have background in engine rebuilding, repair, and troubleshooting. The things I have suggested cost you nothing but time, you may very well find the problem and then again you may not, but don't give up. A big reason I'm saying to check these items is the engine compartment on the FJR is extremely hot at all times when the engine is running, and that's just for the rider. Imagine how hot it is under the panels where these rubber hoses are?

I'm sure others can give you some decent ideas too, these are just a few of mine. Just remember,

Winners never quit.....Quitters never win!

Ride Safe, and good luck. C1

 
Just to throw out a few things in no particular order:

The TPS 'defect' in the original TPS was a wear out failure, it took time and heat to destroy the resistor in the sensor. Because the pickup brush in the sensor spends most of its time either in the idle location or within a small range that represents 'cruise rpm' for the way you ride it would most frequently wear out in those spots. Even if the dealer inadvertently put in an old P/N sensor it still takes a fair amount of time to wear out enough to fail. You'd impress me if 7.5k rpm is your normal cruising range :lol: The TPS would be causing persistent problems if it were way out of adjustment, fortunately it is easy to check via the diAG screen. The only other thing to screw up in the TPS replacement is to botch the seal on the center shaft allowing a vacuum leak. Small vacuum leaks can cause wandering idle, tendency to stall or bog at low rpm’s but a small vacuum leak shouldn't cause total misfire. Big vacuum leaks could cause total misfire but you wouldn't get it to run smoothly at any time.

Fuel failures usually result in soft power delivery issues -- bogging, sputtering, fading power, etc. Electrical failures, especially those in either the primary ignition (low voltage) and secondary ignition (high voltage) causes abrupt shut off. In these days of computer managed engines there are several switches and sensors that could cause the ECU to command the shut off the primary ignition circuit.

If your bike sucked, then you cleaned the sidestand switch and it ran fine for a notable length of time before failing again I'd still be suspicious of the sidestand switch. The sidestand switch is one of the inputs to the ECU that causes the ECU to shut off primary ignition. Why at 7.5k rpm? It could have to do with engine vibrations at that speed. In diAG sequence #20 the display is reading the sidestand switch. It would be interesting to see what happens when your bikie is on the center stand, side stand up, in gear with the diAG #20 reading being displayed and you banged, rapped, and taped the sidestand with something hard enough to set up vibrations. Perhaps even slightly move the sidestand. You or your assistant (hello, honey...) would be diligently watching the display for even the slightest hint of a flicker. The sidestand switch is a proven weak component.

 
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Grease, more thought on this thing. Because you are the one having the problem and you are the person riding it when this happens, it is you who may have the answer to your question. How fast this problem is diagnosed may depend on your accurate description of what exactly is going on when the problem occurred. For example, did you just add anything new to your bike? Was anything else repaired or adjusted? Be as accurate as you can, when riding were you riding up hill, down hill, how fast? When running the engine at high speed in second gear did you blip the throttle at anytime? even the smallest thing may help.

Do you normally run the bike at 7500 rpm's in second gear all of the time? If so, how often do you do this during each ride? Do you get to the 9000 rpm range often? How many miles are on the engine? And most of all, has this happened since you did the TBS, or did this happen after the TBS? (too bad I didn't read this part before I offered you an idea before, huh?)

Sometimes we shoot ourselves in the foot, we adjust something and then start having problems, or we add a part and have problems. Just think back to the last your bike was running fine, then think about what has been done to it since then. You may find the problem lies within the last thing done.

Again, good luck. C1

 
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You got any more info? Miles on bike? Did you experience ANY problems before the TPS was replaced for the first time, or have all problems occurred since?
more info:

miles 14600

typical problems requiring TPS replacement, low speed, low rpm cut outs, herky jerky, all over the place tps readings, numbers dropping in diag mode

this new problem arose since the tps was replaced

Just to throw out a few things in no particular order:


If your bike sucked, then you cleaned the sidestand switch and it ran fine for a notable length of time before failing again I'd still be suspicious of the sidestand switch. The sidestand switch is one of the inputs to the ECU that causes the ECU to shut off primary ignition.

I will recheck it

Why at 7.5k rpm?

no idea

You'd impress me if 7.5k rpm is your normal cruising range :lol:

the LEO's tend to frown upon that around here, i've seen them lose their sense of humor with some of the squidlier boys in the area :lol:

It could have to do with engne vibrations at that speed. In diAG sequence #20 the display is reading the sidestand switch. It would be interesting to see what happens when your bikie is on the center stand, side stand up, in gear with the diAG #20 reading being displayed and you banged, rapped, and taped the sidestand with something hard enough to set up vibrations. Perhaps even slightly move the sidestand. You or your assistant (hello, honey...) would be diligently watching the display for even the slightest hint of a flicker. The sidestand switch is a proven weak component.

looks like i need to put wifey to work

Grease, more thought on this thing. Because you are the one having the problem and you are the person riding it when this happens, it is you who may have the answer to your question. How fast this problem is diagnosed may depend on your accurate description of what exactly is going on when the problem occurred. For example, did you just add anything new to your bike? new plugs

Was anything else repaired or adjusted?

TBS

Be as accurate as you can, when riding were you riding up hill, down hill, how fast?

no real grade to the road, just some mild sweepers, how fast, don't know, felt the bike jerk, quick glance at the tach, then quickly back to the road

When running the engine at high speed in second gear did you blip the throttle at anytime?

not that I am aware of, I did have the wife on the back, all 110lbs of her

even the smallest thing may help.

Do you normally run the bike at 7500 rpm's in second gear all of the time?

no, only when I feel like getting an adrenalin rush, or passing

If so, how often do you do this during each ride?

kinda hard to nail that one, i do enjoy wicking it up every now and then

Do you get to the 9000 rpm range often?

not too often, but been there a few times

How many miles are on the engine?

14600

And most of all, has this happened since you did the TBS, or did this happen after the TBS?

before the throttle body sync, I thought maybe that was the problem, and the TBS would cure it.....WRONGO

(too bad I didn't read this part before I offered you an idea before, huh?)

now that i'm reading these ideas, and thinking about it, the idle did seem abit rough, I think, i'll yank the tank, make sure all of the simple stuff is ok, (vac lines, connections, plug wires, sidestand switch ect...

i guess it could be something as simple as crappy gas also, but 7500rpm??? hmmm

Sometimes we shoot ourselves in the foot, we adjust something and then start having problems, or we add a part and have problems. Just think back to the last your bike was running fine, then think about what has been done to it since then. You may find the problem lies within the last thing done.
thanks fellas, I'll post up with results

remember KISS, keep it simple S***head

 
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