Break In Procedures

[fjrhawk]

Hey guys!

New to the forum here. I'm registered over at STN as dhawk, but I figured I'd use the name fjrhawk over here since I will most likely be picking up a new FJR this weekend.

Anyway, I was wondering what different methods of break-in you guys have used. I want to try the "MotoMan" method, or the method listed @fjr1300.info. Do you guys have any variations to this method that you have used?

This is a great site!

 

[escapefjrtist]

I did mine by the book. Was easy on it for the first 300-400 and then increased revs as 600 came up. You'll find as many opinions about this subject as you will with oil, filters, clothing, boots, windshields etc.... :blink: you get the picture.

I'm happy to report at 8700 miles, pulls like a freight train and quiet as a mouse...

--G

 

[Alex]

I think the main thing to keep in mind while doing any break in procedure, it to vary the rpm from time to time, not let it idle forever and I personally would change the oil between 30 -300 miles.

Don't forget to change the rear dif fluid at 600 or so.

 

[user 213]

I agree on the early oil change. I did the moto-man break in and changed the oil/filter at 38 miles. A lot of metallic crud in there. At 32k, no ticking and still getting 48 mpg. No complaints from me.

 

[radman]

I just sat in the driveway and revved it at 9000 for half an hour. No Problems.

 

[user 213]

You had another 1k to redline. Whatsamatter, you chicken out?

And was that before, or after, you took the whole bike apart to see how it worked? :lol:

 

[BrunDog]

I think the Motoman is a baaaaaad idea.

The general consensus from engineers, you know, the people who design these things, is that the proper method is to load an engine to around 75%, while ensuring that ring temperature is held in check.

As such, loading the engine for an extended period of time or accelerating through the gears from 1k to redline each time will surely load it, but will also raise ring temperature to dangerously high levels. This will ensure a shortened ring life as they become annealed.

The key is short bursts (say, within one gear), from about 2500 to 5000 rpm, then coast a bit with some engine braking, then repeat.

Anyway, MHO.

-BD

 

[markjenn]

Given the precision of today's engines, most experts don't think break-in is very critical on a new bike - just don't do anything really stupid like leave it idling for 15 minutes at a time, or take it out on the freeway and run it at 130 for an hour. I'd bet that a half hour in stop-and-go Phoenix traffic probably does a new bike more harm than runniing it hard.

Many folks like this Motoman process, but it seems WAY over the top to me and it does go against what the manual says. The only thing the manual really says is avoid extended running above certain RPM limits. These limits are there to basically avoid extended periods of running at high power until things have settled and working clearances are established. Brief runs to redline are allowed and probably do the new engine some good.

Early oil changes can't hurt but are probably unnecessary too. Most cars are going to 10K on their first oil change, so 600 seems ultra-conservative - I don't see any compeling reason to be even more conservative.

- Mark

 

[slapnpop]

The reason for the early oil change is to flush out as much metal debris as possible early on in the process. Many have noticied metallic matter in thier used oil at 600 miles. This is all by-product of the manufacturing and the engine working itself in.

Same for the final drive hub.

 

[markjenn]

I don't think a visual inspection of an oil tells you much about harmful contamination. But this is an old debate with no data. Certainly if a 100-mile (or less) oil change gives you peace-of-mind, go for it.

- Mark

 

[user 213]

@BrunDog - No slam, but do read the Moto-man break in procedure before you go panning it. Then read your owner's manual. Sustained high rpms are what we want to avoid. No where in your manual does it suggest that short romps above the "suggested" rpm limits is a problem, or even a "bad thing". The Moto-man isn't suggesting 1k to redline at any point. In fact, it doesn't suggest going to redline at all until the final part of the procedure. Most of the runs you do are 4k to 6-7k at half throttle in a progression of accel/decel runs.

FJR1300.info - Break-in There is a link to the Moto-man site here too.

@Markjenn - You say it goes against the manual, but then immediatly confirm it doesn't by your next statements. :huh:

Do what you're comfy with is the general rule here. Just don't buy a used bike from someone that "babied it" for their break in.

The Moto-man concept is simply to load the rings in accel and decel with some cool down inbetween runs and no sustained high rpm running to fully seat the rings w/o excessive heat to them. The risk is not annealing of the rings, as Brundog suggests, but of surface hardening them. The excessive heat hardens the surface of the rings and then they are unable to wear in, being harder than the bores. With our ceramic coated cylinder bores this is likely less of an issue, but surely would increase the time to seat the rings to the bores.

@Brundog - About engineers. I work with a bunch of people that call themselves engineers. Most of them are not bonded, don't have their stamp and are complete bozos. Ok, complete is too harsh, but the problem is they lack the ability to actually make the things they "design", and don't fully understand the actions, interactions and limitations of the design they come up with. Far too often these engineering students with degrees ignore simple issues that are obvious to anyone with direct experience in the field. Just because someone has a degree in engineering, does not make them an engineer. Just like lawyers, there is a process to complete to make them real engineers. Most do not accomplish this extra process. BE very careful what you believe out of the mouth of an engineer.

As to your comments about 75% loading and keeping the temps in check, exactly how do you propose to gauge this in a controlled manner on the road? Can't easily be done, so you do what everyone else does, ride be the seat of your pants and do what you think is the right thing based on your experience .

 

[motorgod]

I did a modified Moto-Man. I picked up my bike and rode home on some twisties with lots of elevation changes. Changed the oil at 50mi. Rode it around the hills of the Napa Valley for the next 550 mi. Lots of engine braking and good medium/hard acceleration.

No problems with the blue beast. 8700+ miles and running strong.