Center Stand

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n1acguy

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Joined
Aug 24, 2008
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Location
Tujunga, Ca.
I needed to shorten the center stand to make my lowered bike project complete.

So, for those that care, here's what I did.

After studying the design (with another stock stand in case I screwed up), I decided the easiest method would be to cut some off the top.

This meant duplicating the angle of the top of the stand and the distance of the shoulder bolt holes as close as possible to stock. This is critical because if the stops allow the stand to pivot too far the bike would be too hard to roll off the stand, not far enough, and the bike would be unstable when on the stand.

The amount I cut off takes into consideration the amount my bike is lowered. I have the 7/8" longer Kouba links on the rear, and I was able to raise the front fork tubes 7/8" since I have the Heli triple clamp with the extra risers. This seems to be as far as you can raise the front fork tubes without risking bottoming out on the bottom clamp.

This is how much I cut off.

IMAG0036.jpg


After cutting and drilling another hole for the shoulder bolt. The stand has some extra stock welded to the inner sides at the mount points to make up width. I ground the welds off to remove it from the cut off pieces and then rewelded it to the shortened stand to be able to add the exact same thickness at the mount point.

IMAG0038.jpg


Next to the stock stand.

IMAG0040.jpg


Notice the extra Gen1 stand has the cross bar in a different position, but the stands interchange. The spring loop was rewelded, but somehow the distance didn't work out.

IMAG0042.jpg


I ended up drilling out the threads and welding a large nut further down near the cross bar.

IMAG0047.jpg


The spring was a real mother to get back on. I finally looped some safety wire to lever it on.

I had to modify the bumper to bolt it directly to the resting bracket rather than it mounting to the stand. I used a dremmel to grind a shoulder into the bumper, and used a screw and nut to mount it to the resting pad.

IMAG0043.jpg


The bike now has the rear wheel about 1/2" off the ground while on the stand.

IMAG0044.jpg


I'm happy with the way it came out. The bumper in this position makes the stand park a little lower, but that's fine since my heel now rests just on the foot of the stand while riding, since the foot of the stand is now closer to the foot peg. It doesn't interfere and the stand still isn't the lowest part of the bike.

If I did anything different, it would be to weld a bracket or drilled out bolt further down on the lowest portion of the cross bar, and use a beefy eye bolt with a nut on each side for the spring mount, because that spring is a real motha to get back on, and the distance is somewhat critical.

 
I needed to shorten the center stand to make my lowered bike project complete.So, for those that care, here's what I did.

After studying the design (with another stock stand in case I screwed up), I decided the easiest method would be to cut some off the top.

This meant duplicating the angle of the top of the stand and the distance of the shoulder bolt holes as close as possible to stock. This is critical because if the stops allow the stand to pivot too far the bike would be too hard to roll off the stand, not far enough, and the bike would be unstable when on the stand.

The amount I cut off takes into consideration the amount my bike is lowered. I have the 7/8" longer Kouba links on the rear, and I was able to raise the front fork tubes 7/8" since I have the Heli triple clamp with the extra risers. This seems to be as far as you can raise the front fork tubes without risking bottoming out on the bottom clamp.

This is how much I cut off.

IMAG0036.jpg


After cutting and drilling another hole for the shoulder bolt. The stand has some extra stock welded to the inner sides at the mount points to make up width. I ground the welds off to remove it from the cut off pieces and then rewelded it to the shortened stand to be able to add the exact same thickness at the mount point.

IMAG0038.jpg


Next to the stock stand.

IMAG0040.jpg


Notice the extra Gen1 stand has the cross bar in a different position, but the stands interchange. The spring loop was rewelded, but somehow the distance didn't work out.

IMAG0042.jpg


I ended up drilling out the threads and welding a large nut further down near the cross bar.

IMAG0047.jpg


The spring was a real mother to get back on. I finally looped some safety wire to lever it on.

I had to modify the bumper to bolt it directly to the resting bracket rather than it mounting to the stand. I used a dremmel to grind a shoulder into the bumper, and used a screw and nut to mount it to the resting pad.

IMAG0043.jpg


The bike now has the rear wheel about 1/2" off the ground while on the stand.

IMAG0044.jpg


I'm happy with the way it came out. The bumper in this position makes the stand park a little lower, but that's fine since my heel now rests just on the foot of the stand while riding, since the foot of the stand is now closer to the foot peg. It doesn't interfere and the stand still isn't the lowest part of the bike.

If I did anything different, it would be to weld a bracket or drilled out bolt further down on the lowest portion of the cross bar, and use a beefy eye bolt with a nut on each side for the spring mount, because that spring is a real motha to get back on, and the distance is somewhat critical.
Nice work and documentation.

 
Interesting how you opted to remove the height at the top of the stand. Since you apparently have the ability to weld, why couldn't you have just removed what you needed from the bottom of the two legs and then rewelded pads back on? That would have retained all of the angles, and relationship with the springs and stops. Would that not have given you as much drop? Just curious. :unsure:

Either way, nice work. :thumbsup:

 
I lowered my bike my lowering the seat and suspension. I then cut down the center stand by leaving the holes in the end but cutting out 1" of each leg of the stand. I created a set of directions with photos showing what I did and would be happy to email it to anyone who is interested. There are three sets of documentation:

1. Lowering the seat without cutting the foam.

2. Lowering the suspension.

3. Modifying the side and center stands to accommodate the lowered bike.

 
I lowered my bike my lowering the seat and suspension. I then cut down the center stand by leaving the holes in the end but cutting out 1" of each leg of the stand. I created a set of directions with photos showing what I did and would be happy to email it to anyone who is interested. There are three sets of documentation:
1. Lowering the seat without cutting the foam.

2. Lowering the suspension.

3. Modifying the side and center stands to accommodate the lowered bike.

Jon, your files are still being hosted here:

Part 1 - Seat

Part 2 - Suspension

Part 3 - Side and Center Stands

 
Interesting how you opted to remove the height at the top of the stand. Since you apparently have the ability to weld, why couldn't you have just removed what you needed from the bottom of the two legs and then rewelded pads back on? That would have retained all of the angles, and relationship with the springs and stops. Would that not have given you as much drop? Just curious. :unsure:
Either way, nice work. :thumbsup:
Well, if you look closely at the stand, you'll see that that would take more fabrication than what I did. It really didn't take much to duplicate the angle and bore another hole. Just had to measure and mark carefully. I was also able to keep the vertical structure free from welds as in the factory design. I really didn't want to have to make any welds in the structural part with my light duty welder. The spring mount didn't take much to reweld, but getting the spring back on without a bike lift was a challenge.

 
I got the flat part of each leg of the stand. It was easy to just cut out a 1" section, but the cut pieces back together and weld them. It was easier to cut and weld these flat sections then cut the pads off the bottom and reweld them. But different strokes for different folks is what makes the world go round.

 
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