Error 14 - repeat issue

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an-guy

hi
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Been an interesting week... I dropped my keys while riding home, curse me and the new fangled BMW keyless ignition... Of my three vehicles, all three vehicles keys were on the ring, and the old dusty FJR1300 is the only bike I actually got with a spare key. Yes I should have made spares, I know. Basically I can only ride the FJR for now, and because I guess my life wasn't exciting enough, it's started an issue.

Usually on a cold start, the bike will start then sputter and run like absolute shit under 1000rpm (usual idle is 1200rpm~) then either it will die, and show "14" on the dash, or I can give it some gas and it runs perfectly fine after a little bit (identifies as a carbed bike I guess). Or it will just die and then restart as normal. The first time, the issue progressively got worse and eventually I couldn't keep it running at idle even when the bike was warmed up.

This has actually happened before and I THOUGHT I fixed it. I found on here a thread about the same issue, tried the fix (basically seems to be a clog in the idle vacuum line, just blow out and clean), and it worked for the last 8000-10000ish miles.

But it came back. I will also add that I usually run E15, yes it's not recommended. If this could be why, then experiment complete, FJR's don't like E15 and the world can go on

Just wondering if anyone wants to speculate or give insight as to why this issue came back, I guess the bright side is I at least know a fix that lasts several thousand miles
 
All I can suggest is having another look at the network of rubber hoses going to the pressure sensor; especially the piece that connects directly to the sensor. Doesn't take much time to do this. Although I don't know if it might be related, go back to using E10 gas...
For reference on the Fault code14 issue...
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/fault-code-14-gen-ii-solved.170314/
Note: "Blowing out" the clog might not do it as a long-term fix. The plug is a gooey, greasy material and you might have just blown a hole through it and the clog formed again. I would suggest using a cotton swab or pipe cleaner passed through the tubing. A spritz with solvent (such as carb cleaner or even alcohol) would be helpful to get rid of residues. Remove solvent with a swab and dry THOROUGHLY before putting it back together. Do not poke anything into the MAP sensor opening and don't get any solvent into it.

This is what the stuff looks like.
1703855453492.png

I sold my bike 30,000 miles after this happened but never had a repeat performance.
Are there any other stored fault codes?
 
I had a look at that. I managed to get into the diagnostics menu and then realized I was further in over my head than a guy pitching a pyramid scheme on shark tank. I hit a couple buttons and the fuel pump kept turning off lol. Is there a way to just read stored codes? I'll read the writeup again in the meantime

Anyways I did the whole procedure again more thoroughly this time. I couldnt get a q tip in the tubes but I could get the wooden stick end with a half inch by half inch piece of paper towel soaked in alcohol on the end of it and that worked fine.

The same tube to the sensor was fully clogged again. I'll try just e10 for a while and see if it comes back, but I'm definitely not putting as many miles down with the BMW in my life. We'll see, it runs great now
 

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Interesting the clog came back so soon. Or, you didn't get it very good the first time. I had this issue on my 145,000 mile 2009 FJR last year and was baffled. Thanks to this forum and RossKean I got it fixed easily.
 
Interesting the clog came back so soon. Or, you didn't get it very good the first time. I had this issue on my 145,000 mile 2009 FJR last year and was baffled. Thanks to this forum and RossKean I got it fixed easily.
I won't try to fool anyone that I'm an awesome mechanic lol. I didn't use any solvents, I just blew it out with compressed air.

Yes, big thanks to everyone here for that. I'd have no idea at all
 
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