Fairlaner (Or Other) Help Requested--2013 Battery Access

[Pseudo-Fed]

Requesting help from a 2013 owner in removing front cowling shown on page 7-10 of the owners manual in order to remove "panel A" to get at the battery.

I've removed the headlight adjust knobs, all bolts and quick fasteners for this cowling, but can't determine where to push/pull to remove it. I don't want to force it and the pics in the manual just aren't doing it for me. Any help appreciated. Thanks!

 

[odot]

Probably like the first gen fjrs the molded plastic panels need some "lovin's" to come apart. They should be bendable. Have fun taking apart your brand new motorcycle. It only cost you, what?.....fifteen grand? And now yer tearing it apart? Okay.

 

[Pseudo-Fed]

Probably like the first gen fjrs the molded plastic panels need some "lovin's" to come apart. They should be bendable. Have fun taking apart your brand new motorcycle. It only cost you, what?.....fifteen grand? And now yer tearing it apart? Okay.

Making it worth...sixteen grand....

(Gotta get that heated gear pigtail on....

 

[escapefjrtist]

Take a look at page 8 of Warchilds thread...maybe some hints.

--G

FIRST LOOK: GenIII Battery Compartment

Another much requested photograph: the first look underneath the right dash cowling, into the battery compartment:

As you can see, there is some amount of available space for farkling opportunities... look at that good hefty gap of space between the relays attached to the back of the VRLA battery, and the outboard side cowling!

Can't speak to the GenIIs, but this battery compartment is certainly a far cry from the GenIs, that's for sure.

For one thing , all eighteen (18!

) fuses are located here. There are two (2) Main Fuses. Main Fuse #1 is rated at 50-amps, Main Fuse #2 is rated at 30-amps. Dayumn.

There are two radiator fan fuses, both 10-amp. The ABS system has three (3) fuses associated with it:

• ABS Control Unit fuse: 7.5-amps
• ABS Motor fuse: 30-amps
• ABS Solenoid fuse: 20-amps

The Fly-By-Wire Throttle system has two (2) fuses associated with it:

• Fuel Injection System fuse: 15-amps
• Electronic Throttle Valve fuse: 7.5-amps

There are two Fuse Pods that contain the bulk of the fuses, both are aft (to the left) of the battery in the above pic. You can also clearly see the independent fuse holders (white-colored) for the Brake Light, Cruise Control, and Windscreen.

 

[Fairlaner]

i used a screw driver to VERY gently separate the cowling from the painted fairing....

R

 

[dcarver]

i used a screw driver CROWBAR to VERY gently separate the cowling from the painted fairing....

R

Fixed!

 

[Pseudo-Fed]

i used a screw driver to VERY gently separate the cowling from the painted fairing....

R

Thank you. Where, at the top? Does the top need to separate first and then roll forward?

 

[Fairlaner]

the sides are first as i remember, then it will kinda roll forward as one piece.

R

 

[Fairlaner]

PM sent.

R

 

[AKjitsu]

In the process installing my battery tender I discovered that the putogetherness of the Gen III plastics is a significantly different can of worms than on prior models. I also discovered something I believe is pretty dumb. Once you get the faceplate loose and look at the horizontal plastic piece that covers the battery, turns out there’s a tab on the front of the horizontal piece that bolts to one of the forward pieces. I stared at the arrangement long enough to satisfy myself that this bolt arrangement serves no structural purpose whatsoever. So I lopped it off. Consequently, next time (and there will be a next time) I want to get to the battery all I have to do is remove three easy-to-get-to bolts and yank the battery cover off without having to disassemble a bunch of body work.

Fairlaner may disagree with my methodology and I will defer to his opinion as he knows a lot more about this bike than I.

 

[odot]

That's cool. As long as yer lopping off useless parts of your brand new...fifteen thousand dollar... 2013 fjr this will stay interesting.

 

[Troppo]

Why is it that Yamaha make the FJR battery so impossible to get to?

Yet the oil filter arrangement is the best I have seen?

On my ZX14 (and the C14), the battery was located in its own little compartment, that opens up with a simple clip....

The Busa battery and fuses are under the seat....

Why can't Yamaha do the same with the FJR?

.....I dread standing beside the bike, in the dark, in the rain, trying to get to the fucking fuses!!!!

 

[beemerdons]

PM sent.

R

Dear Richard, Please send me the same PM, I bought my Battery Tender lead from Cycle Gear but I am too chicken shit to attempt to remove the panels.

I probably will hire SkooterG to do this for a steak dinner, that way if the plastic gets broken I can kick his ass: Instead of having to kick my own old butt!

 

[littlefish]

In the process installing my battery tender I discovered that the putogetherness of the Gen III plastics is a significantly different can of worms than on prior models. I also discovered something I believe is pretty dumb. Once you get the faceplate loose and look at the horizontal plastic piece that covers the battery, turns out there’s a tab on the front of the horizontal piece that bolts to one of the forward pieces. I stared at the arrangement long enough to satisfy myself that this bolt arrangement serves no structural purpose whatsoever. So I lopped it off. Consequently, next time (and there will be a next time) I want to get to the battery all I have to do is remove three easy-to-get-to bolts and yank the battery cover off without having to disassemble a bunch of body work.

Fairlaner may disagree with my methodology and I will defer to his opinion as he knows a lot more about this bike than I.

I like your idea a bunch and I really hope you took a picture or two of this lopped off excess engineering.

 

[Fairlaner]

Fairlaner may disagree with my methodology and I will defer to his opinion as he knows a lot more about this bike than I.

I think i know the piece you are talking about.......i plan to do some disassembly during next weekends tech day so i will have a look then.

and Don all I said in the PM was to call me.

R

 

[littlefish]

Fairlaner may disagree with my methodology and I will defer to his opinion as he knows a lot more about this bike than I.

I think i know the piece you are talking about.......i plan to do some disassembly during next weekends tech day so i will have a look then.

R

I have to do some hard-wiring very soon, I'll take a few pics and post them up. I sure hate to be cutting good stuff off, replacing bodywork is expensive!!!

 

[Fairlaner]

and hard to do right now......

R

 

[Charlie]

The screw driver tip worked for me best by starting at the top and working my way around and down. It was tough not being sure of exactly what I was doing. If you are careful prying it should work out okay.

 

[petey]

I removed the panels to get to the battery. Here is the scoop.

You have to remove this panel first.

Then you can remove the bolt on the front right of the panel that covers the battery. hope that helps.