Final Drive Oil Change, Do This

[Gleaming Alloy Air Car]

22,409 Miles
Purchase bike as 3rd owner last year, and put almost 5,000 miles on it since owning it.
Wish I had changed the final drive oil sooner. That’s why I’m submitting this thread.
This was probably the first time the fluid was changed (can’t be sure) and it needed it.
There was a lot of metal on the magnet and the fluid had a lot of streaking to it, too much in my experience.
Going to replace this again after about 2,000 miles to see what it looks like.
Putting this out there in case someone else picked up a used ride, if you don’t know the service history, I recommend doing this inexpensive, super easy service right away.

 

[Ignacio]

If first, I agree. Should have been at 600 miles. But the glittery final drive oil is very likely because the factory uses oil that a lot of moly in it. And probably will have some the next time too. It will dissipate. Some shaving on the plug? Not abnormal in my experience the first time or two. I'd watch, but the final drive is NOT a weak link on the FJR.

 

[BillDownUnder]

Lube the splines?

 

[RedRiderMN]

And the u-joint?

 

[Gleaming Alloy Air Car]

Lube the splines?

Copy. Lube the splines.

 

[Gleaming Alloy Air Car]

And the u-joint?

Copy, Lube the splines and the U-Joint. Splines I have done on other bikes, I can do that easy.
Not sure how to lube the U-Joint, requesting advice on that point.

 

[RossKean]

Copy, Lube the splines and the U-Joint. Splines I have done on other bikes, I can do that easy.
Not sure how to lube the U-Joint, requesting advice on that point.

Lots of stuff in the following link. Technically for Gen I but applicable to later bikes. Includes spline lube, drive shaft maintenance and u-joint.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/maint.html​

 

[MotoMike]

Gleaming Alloy Air Car,
I can vouch for the information provided in the link in post #7 (above). I used it to do the U-Joint maintenance on my 2007 FJR 1300A, last winter. The instructions are well written, easy to follow and includes helpful photos.

 

[SkooterG]

I always do fresh fluids on any used bike I purchase. No matter what the previous owner tells me. Get the splnes while you're doing your next oil tire change. FWIW in my experience, the U joint is bulletproof. I haven't lubed a U-joint in years and hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[RedRiderMN]

I performed the relay arm lubrication last year and while I had everything apart, lubed the U-joint. I was surprised at how dry the U-joint was at 40K miles.

YMMV

 

[Mr. BR]

I believe the actual u-joint is considered a non-service item… it has no grease/zerk fitting like you might find on a car or truck.
As noted by others, clean and grease those splines occasionally and you’ll be fine!
About 2 yrs ago I bought this rusty Gen1 U-joint on Flea-Bay for $15 just to take it apart for fun…
Mileage unknown but it was in great shape and I would say these are very robust little units.
Anyone ever heard of a U-joint failure on an FJR?
Mr. BR

 

[art miller]

It is my understanding from past discussions on this topic, the FJR U-joint has no service requirement. Also the splines should be checked for lube initially as many are delivered dry from factory. Once they are lubed it is not necessary to do it again as there is very little movement on the splines. BMW is a big issue here.

 

[RossKean]

It is my understanding from past discussions on this topic, the FJR U-joint has no service requirement. Also the splines should be checked for lube initially as many are delivered dry from factory. Once they are lubed it is not necessary to do it again as there is very little movement on the splines. BMW is a big issue here.

I agree on the u-joint itself, but the drive splines need some attention from time to time. Frequency depends upon riding conditions.

 

[Bounce]

I R&R the u-joint any time I service the front splines. It's too easy to skip. I also put a light coat of Mobile 1 synth marine lube on the buffed u-joint, etc. I use high moly paste on drive and driven splines from u-joint back to rear wheel splines. I also do it annually since it's easier and cheaper than buying new parts. Something about mandatory morning zerk greasing each day before we took the equipment out to harvest wheat. That equipment was 50 years old and still working... because people took the time.

 

[SkooterG]

Well, except for one time on my first FJR I have never serviced that U-joint including the splines. And after hundreds of thousands of miles I've never had to replace one.

 

[Bounce]

Excellent news.

I tend to be a little more cautious. Others will land where they may.

 

[rbentnail]

Well, except for one time on my first FJR I have never serviced that U-joint including the splines. And after hundreds of thousands of miles I've never had to replace one.

It may be because you are generally in a much dryer environment than I am. I've found the u-joint itself to be bullet proof but over here in the humid southeast, riding in the rain often can rust the u-joint onto the transmission output shaft. My '07 had that problem. I've found a clean and lube of those early in the bike's life with decent marine grade wheel bearing grease is a once per half-decade job.

 

[SkooterG]

It may be because you are generally in a much dryer environment than I am. I've found the u-joint itself to be bullet proof but over here in the humid southeast, riding in the rain often can rust the u-joint onto the transmission output shaft. My '07 had that problem. I've found a clean and lube of those early in the bike's life with decent marine grade wheel bearing grease is a once per half-decade job.

Good info.

But, if it rusts onto the output shaft that is great! That means it ain't going anywhere!