FJR No Start, No Power, No Nothing

[Hudson]

This one is a puzzler:

08 FJR, turn the key, no lights, no power to the bike, not a thing. More info below, but the "no power" aspect won't let me lower the windshield to remove the cowl to begin checking various spiders and relays. I've been poking around all winter with no success.

Background: the bike was intermittent when I tried to start it - dash and lights would come on, then flicker, then everything would go dead like I turned the key off. Jiggling the key helped twice, then it quit working,

I tried a known good battery, and checked both batteries to be sure. They check out fine. When I connect the battery terminals, the needles sweep once and a relay clicks, but nothing lights up on the dash, and I can't get any power to anything on the bike.

Next, I tried a two ignition switches thinking this was the problem. Nope, same symptoms.

Looked at the main 50 fuse, it tested fine. A 3 amp "terminal" fuse looked blown and I replaced it, but there was no impact.

I have Brodie's spider harness on the bike, but figured I'd check all the spider connections (although the symptoms seem different than I've read).

Here's the problem: I can't get power to the bike to lower the windshield mounts (which are in their full raised position) in order to pull the cowling, nor can I get power to the glove box to pop it so I can remove the screw holding one of the panels,

Any thoughts? Seems odd that the relay clicks and needles swing once but nothing else works. Yes, I have put the side stand down, and checked the "kill engine" switch to ensure it is in the right position. I am at a loss on how to proceed.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Gotta start (no pun intended) with the basics Hudson. I'm on-call the next two weekends so get'er stripped down and we'll start working.

Looking for lots of ideas from the collective!

--G

 

[TripperMike]

What do you mean by you "tried a two ignition switches."? You had two 2 spare ignition switched laying around that you could try?

Not trying to sound like a doofus here, but it sounds like the same thing that stranded me 200 miles from home last Aug. Turns out it was a bunch of road grime that gathered ove the years and impeded good contact at critical areas in the ignition switch. The symptoms were there at times last year until finally I got stranded with a bike that showed no signs of life. As in your situation, everything from battery to fuses tested good, but nothing would light up when turning the key. nada, zip, zilch

A crudded up ignition switch is a relatively easy fix, but you will have drill out the 2 security screws on the back.

But again if you already tried two other ignition switches, please ignore what I just wrote.

Hope you get it resolved Hudson.

Edit: I knew it was my ignition switch after I tried wiggling the wires leading into the switch while turning the key.

 

[NTXFJR]

It looks like the red wire that feeds power to the key switch feeds off of the main fuse coming from the positive post of the battery. Might probe that wire with a volt meter at the switch connector and look for power. If it's there then you might want to check the switch output wire and follow that wire to the fuse block. On a gen I that wire is brown/blue not sure on the gen III. Easy enough to check, there are only two power wires on the ignition switch, power in and power out. Might check all of the harness connector plugs and sockets in line with that circuit and follow it to the fuses. Do you have aftermarket accessory stuff that draws power through the switch power circuit? The extra current loading might have heated up connector pins and caused continuity issues. Just a thought. Best of luck

 

[Ignacio]

Did you have the ignition switch checked to see if it was part of the recall of one of the 9300 2006-2009 bikes?

 

[Hudson]

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

George, she's as stripped as I can get her - can't get the nose cone off until I can get the windshield mounts lowered to pull the cowling off. Not sure how to do that without power to the windshield mount motors. Anyone have ideas on getting the mounts manually lowered, or is there another way to pull the nose off with the windshield mounts in the raised position?

Iggy, I had the switch recall done back in 09. Didn't have the harness recall done, mostly because I had installed Brodie's harness early on, and the symptoms of the spider issue don't mirror what is happening here.

Tripper Mike, I bought a spare ignition thinking that was the problem (and borrowed another spare from Auburn FJR). I too think that the ignition switch is the likely suspect. But... thinking back now, I checked the ignition switch early on, before I later found the 3amp terminal fuse was blown, and never rechecked the Ignition switch. So... perhaps it is possible that it still may be the ignition switch. I'll try replacing the switch tomorrow and see what happens, easy to do just lift the tank, no need to pull the nose. Sure would be nice if that turned out to be that easy.

 

[Brodie]

Hudson

From the sound of it your bike has had it's the automatic windshield retract circuit disconnected. Its the connector deep inside the dash just above the right headlight, the one with two black wires running to it. Reconnect that and the windshield will go down.The power feeding this is from the BackUp circuit - the one that feeds the gages while the ignition switch is off, hence the gage sweep when you hooked up the second battery.

As for checking the ignition switch, a good test would be to disconnect the large white connector on it's pigtail (under the tank behind the headset), and connect the red and tan wire to each other on the bike side. This will provide power to the electrical system as if the key were turned on. If power is restored and you want to actually start the bike, you will still need to turn the key on to enable it as the key switch is still hooked up to the kill circuit by the smaller red connector.

If you want to know how to access the glove box manually, send me a PM.

Good luck, let us know how this turns out.

Brodie

 

[Brodie]

It would be quite interesting if it truly is a faulty RECALL ignition switch.

Brodie

 

[Larry33319]

My 06 is doing the exact same thing. I went to ride it today and when I turned on the key, nothing happened at all. It was recalled and the switch replaced several years ago after giving me the same symptoms. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner into it and after 6 or 8 attempts it worked, started and promptly shut off. If I played with the key it may or may not allow power to get thru. A new switch is on order, $145 including 2 day shipping, and I suspect this will correct the problem.

It surprised me to find this thread as I thought the recalled switch cured the problem. They do have an updated part number from what was listed on the various part lists available from most dealers. We shall see what happens shortly. The bike only has 138,000 miles on it so I fully realize it is just starting to break in and this should not have been an issue.

Glad I also have a Suzuki DL-650 Vstrom so I did not miss one of our first warm days for riding.

 

[Hudson]

Thanks Brodie, I'll try this out. I did try a known good ignition switch today (after I had relaced the "terminal" fuse that I found blown) but no dice. Very curious - if this was a fault of the ignition switch, wouldn't a new switch cure the problem?

Is there anyway this is a problem associated with the ignition wiring harness? Not the switch..

 

[audiowize]

How comfy are you with a volt meter, and where in the "ish" of "Seattle-ish" are you?

 

[Panman]

Could the relay on Brodie's harness have failed?

 

[Hudson]

Pan, I don't have Brodie's ignition harness (sigh). I was referring to his ground spider harness.

I might need to have a Hudson tech day. Picking at this thing an hour here and there hasn't helped since last May when it quit. I'll try some of Brodie's suggestions, but this one has me stumped.

Audiowize, still learning my way around a volt meter. I've verified the battery is good, and used it to verify the main 50 amp fuse was still good. Bike is near Fall City.

 

[CCook82]

As Brodie informed me last fall you can access the glove box lid manually. Lowar left fairing panel off. Reach up under and behind the glove box. There is a plunger/ moveable link you can move to pop the lid. Hard to reach and tight quarters but can be done. Had a mirror on it once. I think it was white plastic.

 

[audiowize]

Well, if you need a hand, I'm pretty available this coming weekend. If the bike is sitting outside out somewhere in Fall City, I'm sure we can figure out a way to get it moved to a more convenient place to work on it.

 

[Geezer]

Can't you bypass the ignition switch by jumping out the connector once it is off of the switch? That would isolate the switch and take that out of the list of possibilities.

 

[FredandJeannesRacer]

Can't you bypass the ignition switch by jumping out the connector once it is off of the switch? That would isolate the switch and take that out of the list of possibilities.

That is what I did, when my switch died. Got me home.

 

[Larry33319]

I am in the middle of a similar problem. I replaced the ignition switch just prior to the recall on my 06. I was not sure if I had purchased a new or old type switch but Mama Yamaha refunded me the cost of the switch. So, the bike was giving the same symptoms and I immediately ordered a new switch, in preparation for Daytona, it now has an updated part number so I am guessing it is improved. No difference at all. I then did what I should have done in the beginning, I pulled the manual and started following the wiring diagram. I found and tapped on the relay that the switch heavy lead plugs into. The lights came on, meters swept, and it could start. It worked for several attempts and the died. I tapped on the relay again and it all worked again. I am now thinking the relay is intermittent. New one on order, supposed to arrive on Monday morning. Found it available thru an auto parts store, thankfully it is a universal relay also used by GM as well as others. Part number was RY-255 made by Standard Relay Company for 12 bucks. Hopefully this will end my problem and get me to Daytona on time. I will post my result, hopefully positive.

 

[mcatrophy]

I am in the middle of a similar problem. I replaced the ignition switch just prior to the recall on my 06. I was not sure if I had purchased a new or old type switch but Mama Yamaha refunded me the cost of the switch. So, the bike was giving the same symptoms and I immediately ordered a new switch, in preparation for Daytona, it now has an updated part number so I am guessing it is improved. No difference at all. I then did what I should have done in the beginning, I pulled the manual and started following the wiring diagram. I found and tapped on the relay that the switch heavy lead plugs into. The lights came on, meters swept, and it could start. It worked for several attempts and the died. I tapped on the relay again and it all worked again. I am now thinking the relay is intermittent. New one on order, supposed to arrive on Monday morning. Found it available thru an auto parts store, thankfully it is a universal relay also used by GM as well as others. Part number was RY-255 made by Standard Relay Company for 12 bucks. Hopefully this will end my problem and get me to Daytona on time. I will post my result, hopefully positive.

Not sure which relay you are referring to, but be aware the ignition circuit to the instruments etc does not go through any relay contacts. Sounds more like a loose connection or break in a wire if it's not the switch itself.