Fuel Gauge Flashing - How to clear?

[Stickboy]

I have a 2007 FJR1300A that I am doing some work on. I removed the tank and fuel pump to plumb in an auxiliary bulkhead connector, and in the process, turned the ignition on without the pump or gauge connected. Now, when I put the tank back on, the gauge flashes 8 times then goes blank. This tells me that it's not seeing the sender or something is wrong. But here's the thing: I took the sending unit apart and verified everything. I get continuity across the terminals, and the resistance reads correct (21 ohms empty, 146 full). I see voltage across the terminals when the unit is hooked to the gauge as well. Do I need to do something to reset this condition, or do I need to do some more tracing to locate a problem somewhere else in the system.

Steve

 

[RossKean]

Sounds like you don't have the connector on the bottom of the tank "clicked" into place.

 

[Stickboy]

That was the first thing I thought of, but it's definitely clicked in. I also verified voltage across the sender unit while I had the pump out. I plugged the gauge in and turned the key on. It measured slightly over 11 volts across the metal components on either side of the resistor board. But even with that, the gauge still flashed and didn't show. While I had the bike apart, I also checked the ground spiders, except for 1. All looked good and had no signs of burning or corrosion. I have not tried disconnecting the battery yet to "reset" things, but I will do that this evening and report back. I am hoping it's something that simple.

 

[Stickboy]

So the little terminal on the positive side of the sending unit worked it's way loose and didn't make good contact with the contact on the resistor board, and that was causing the problem. I put some JB Weld on the terminal so that it keeps pressure on the contact. It's still curing, but I tested the continuity and it seems to be working fine. I will know maybe tomorrow or the next day. Want to let the epoxy cure.

 

[dcarver]

Good on yah~ Can you post a pic?

 

[Moses2]

So the little terminal on the positive side of the sending unit worked it's way loose and didn't make good contact with the contact on the resistor board, and that was causing the problem. I put some JB Weld on the terminal so that it keeps pressure on the contact. It's still curing, but I tested the continuity and it seems to be working fine. I will know maybe tomorrow or the next day. Want to let the epoxy cure.

Stickboy do you have any pics? I just picked up a bike (2007 no recalls) that sat for a couple years, and now has an 8 flashing gas gauge that reads full. S4 looks good, as do the others. Is there a trick to getting the pump out to check it, or can i check it with the pump in at the plugs?

 

[mcatrophy]

(deleted)

 

[Moses2]

Thanks mcatrophy. What I did to support my tank was to use a ratchet strap. Placing a towel over the tank, hooking the coated hook of the strap into one of the tanks bolt holes, running the strap on the towel toward the rear top luggage rack, where it fed into the ratchet end that I hooked the insulated hook to. I then just ratched it snug to hold the tank up. I have removed and then reseated both plugs on the bottom of the tank, while it still had 2-3 gallons of gas in it. Turned the key back on, and the gas gauge still flashed 8 times (about once a second) showing a full tank(all segments) then pausing for about two seconds before starting again. I have since drained the tank, and was attempting to remove the fuel pump/sensor from the tank while in that position, but with the clamp ring removed, it only freely drops an inch or so. Gently rotating it doesn't seem to help, or find a better position. I had removed the engine heat shield to view th S4 connection,  which looks fine on the outside, with no evidence of heat on the cap or the wires going into it. I was attempting to remove the cap to look inside, but such a Dickens to try to hold and release, at least with the tank on. I dont quite see how I could open that connection even with the tank off. Maybe with some forceps and a pick. Do I have to take all these spiders apart to verify their integrity?? I had my vin# run, and it was not on a recall list. I truly want to like this bike with 36k on the clock and pretty clean,but we are off to a bad start. Thank you for your help, as this is a bit overwhelming. I'd show pictures,  but it appears i have to upload them to a site?

 

[Moses2]

With the key on engine off in its present state, the signals, headlight, 4ways, trip meters/reset, clock/reset, all work. I did find something odd when riding the bike home after purchase in that it seemed I couldn't reset the trip meters while the bike was running. When I got home, 2 hours of riding some high speeds , I shut the bike off, turned on the key without starting and both trip meters reset without a problem. It starts,  and sounds healthy. As i mentioned earlier, the bike sat for 2 years with about 2 gallons or so of fuel in it. I say that because when I went to look at it, I remarked about the flashing gauge and the then owner thought it must need fuel. It only took 2 or so gallons to fill it. I have since talked with the previous owner who says this flashing condition was not happening when he put the bike away. 

 

[mcatrophy]

Thanks mcatrophy. What I did to support my tank was to use a ratchet strap. Placing a towel over the tank, hooking the coated hook of the strap into one of the tanks bolt holes, running the strap on the towel toward the rear top luggage rack, where it fed into the ratchet end that I hooked the insulated hook to. I then just ratched it snug to hold the tank up. I have removed and then reseated both plugs on the bottom of the tank, while it still had 2-3 gallons of gas in it. Turned the key back on, and the gas gauge still flashed 8 times (about once a second) showing a full tank(all segments) then pausing for about two seconds before starting again. I have since drained the tank, and was attempting to remove the fuel pump/sensor from the tank while in that position, but with the clamp ring removed, it only freely drops an inch or so. Gently rotating it doesn't seem to help, or find a better position. I had removed the engine heat shield to view th S4 connection,  which looks fine on the outside, with no evidence of heat on the cap or the wires going into it. I was attempting to remove the cap to look inside, but such a Dickens to try to hold and release, at least with the tank on. I dont quite see how I could open that connection even with the tank off. Maybe with some forceps and a pick. Do I have to take all these spiders apart to verify their integrity?? I had my vin# run, and it was not on a recall list. I truly want to like this bike with 36k on the clock and pretty clean,but we are off to a bad start. Thank you for your help, as this is a bit overwhelming. I'd show pictures,  but it appears i have to upload them to a site?

Firstly, apologies, I hadn't read your earlier posts properly, my reply was irrelevant, so I've deleted it.

Taking the cover off is necessary, as is removing the multi-pin connector (that gives the "spider" its unofficial name). Even if they don't show signs of overheating, corrosion could be impeding a low-current circuit such as the fuel sender.

I show below a picture of one of mine. Even though I never suffered from a spider bite, this one does show the start of corrosion.

(Click on image for larger view)



This was the S4, and it did take some extracting.

I smeared Vaseline on mine, this is an excellent water repellant in this sort of application. Others will swear by dielectric grease. There is absolutely no need for the "dielectric" name. Regardless of whatever you use, the electrical contact is always where there is metal-to-metal contact between the connector parts, the only property the grease needs is to be is water resistant, and not, in itself, corrosive.

Finally, images do need to be hosted on a site that allows direct access from  forum such as this. I can't give first-hand advice, I host mine on my own server, so make my own rules.

 

[Moses2]

I pulled the S4 spider out. Looks like new. I’ll apply a little vasoline and replace. Do I need to look/disassemble all of them?

 

[Moses2]

I pulled the S4 spider out. Looks like new. I’ll apply a little vasoline and replace. Do I need to look/disassemble all of them?

I've removed, inspected, greased and reinstalled all spiders. The connectors to the bottom of the tank were plugged in firmly and i dont see any evidence of a bad wire. What to check next? With the tank off, should i be looking at the sensor/fuel pump? Is there a test I can do with a meter while it is still installed in the tank?

 

[dcarver]

It's a pita, but I'd pull the pump/sender from tank and visually inspect on the bench. Then plug into harness while pp still external, wiggle wires, check connector, especially the wiper as it contacts the wiring block.