Actually you don't need the second strip for the ground, you can just stack up all the ground wires to one connection or do whatever to connect them together. It also assumes that you are going to fuse all the farkles individually or just leave them tied directly to the battery. Remember that is a relay not a circuit breaker so there is no real protection till you hit 30 amps and the relay melts. That's why the the Blue Sea box is so cool. You can put in a fuse for whatever device or devices you are attaching rather than having some fuse holder hanging around somewhere. The Radio Shack solution works but it ain't elegant if ya know what I mean.
After connecting all my farkle positives to my new power plate (see This Thread), I stacked all my grounds together and screwed them to the frame. I was just advised to run a no. 10 from that point to the battery, a project I will do when next I have the bike apart.
This is the absolute key. It doesn't necessarily matter which grounds and +12V points are used, as long as they are the same for audio and sensitive electronic equipment.
That's the key there Bob, you need a direct Powerlet to the battery for the charger.
I have heard of this being done but never witnessed it.
If the bike battery is completely dead , you cannot push start it. It needs minimum amount of voltage to kick off the ECU and FI.
I took a separete set of battery tender cables and hooked them to the battery. Then I fished the wire down the fairing so I could have acces to the battery without tools if I needed a jump or to run my air compressor. I have the other end of the tender soldered to different connectors. one is a cig lighter for the compressor or other items of high draw. then a second with aligator clips for a jump start.
This is absolutely true. However, my point was if your using the supplied schematic in this thread and your using a dual row barrier strip and jumper from Radio Shack as outlined in the Installing a 12v Power Strip section on the FJR Tech page... then your probably setting yourself up to burn some wires.
Thanks for your responses Highlander and Fencer. What is your opinion about this: Positive and negative leads coming off the battery going to a set of connectors, then to the bluesea. Compatible with a tender, or as you said alligator clips for jump start when unplugged, and then plugged back in to bring the bluesea online. And where would you put the fuse? Between connector and battery so it is hot when charging battery, or between connector and bluesea? The relay I assume would be between connector and bluesea. The bluesea will be mounted under the seat. Can the connectors be there also, or is that too far away from the battery? Thanks for your patience and help.I took a separete set of battery tender cables and hooked them to the battery. Then I fished the wire down the fairing so I could have acces to the battery without tools if I needed a jump or to run my air compressor. I have the other end of the tender soldered to different connectors. one is a cig lighter for the compressor or other items of high draw. then a second with aligator clips for a jump start.
1.) The more connectors, the more opportunity for failure.
I have two leads from the battery both have an in-line fuse at the battery.
I'd wager you won't find room for the two halves !! I have my 06 torn apart and there's no way to easily add the barrier strips I had on the 04. ( Had two power and a neg strips on the 04 ) There's just no room up front. If I were you I'd cut two blocks of foam the same size as your intended cut up Blue Sea. See if you can fit the foam before cutting up the Blue Sea.
