Fuse block preference

[SilverHound]

Yup, I got the notification on mine too. Curt seems like a smart guy as he apparently was being conservative in his shipping time estimations which is better than being too optimistic and then having to deal with a bunch of inquiries asking when the fuzeblocks would be shipping.

 

[CHRIS_D]

I have Centech on the FJR which is alright, however I just ordered the Fuzeblock for the new KTM!!

Didn't realize until after the order that it was on backorder.

Is the relay on Fuzeblock in a socket? I know you could just switch the fuses over if it fails.

 

[LAGO RUNNER]

https://www.electricalconnection.com/power-...tion/pplate.htm

I used the Universal one, easy instal and the block goes on and off with the ignition. and you can connect a battery tender to it

 

[SilverHound]

Is the relay on Fuzeblock in a socket? I know you could just switch the fuses over if it fails.

I believe that the relay is soldered to the board.

 

[CHRIS_D]

Is the relay on Fuzeblock in a socket? I know you could just switch the fuses over if it fails.

I believe that the relay is soldered to the board.

That's what I thought. If its a 3 layer board which I think It is; then I don't believe you will be able to R&R if it fails.

 

[Greb]

I will soon be ordering/installing a FZ1.

What is the advantage of putting it in the tail of the bike? Wouldn't this require the farkle wiring to be routed excessively far from their positions, such as the wiring for gps/ powerlets and such? Forgive the noob please, be gentle

 

[2006FJR]

I will soon be ordering/installing a FZ1.
What is the advantage of putting it in the tail of the bike? Wouldn't this require the farkle wiring to be routed excessively far from their positions, such as the wiring for gps/ powerlets and such? Forgive the noob please, be gentle

I think for many it comes down to real estate. Different bikes have room in different area and often there are already other things that are installed under the seat and or fairing. In the end you can put it anywhere you want but most have it under the seat.

 

[SilverHound]

I will soon be ordering/installing a FZ1.
What is the advantage of putting it in the tail of the bike? Wouldn't this require the farkle wiring to be routed excessively far from their positions, such as the wiring for gps/ powerlets and such? Forgive the noob please, be gentle

I think for many it comes down to real estate. Different bikes have room in different area and often there are already other things that are installed under the seat and or fairing. In the end you can put it anywhere you want but most have it under the seat.

Agreed and also for me I wanted it where it was easily accessable should I need to change a fuse or add a circuit. I was able to easily fish a 3/8" I/D piece of wire loom from the left panel where the glove box is under and along the tank and up into the space under the seat without lifting the tank. This ensured that it wouldn't get pinched. I then pulled the eight wires I needed through the loom to the Fuzeblock, relay and garage door opener under the seat. Whatever I could ground upfront I did to reduce the number of wires to the Fuzeblock.

 

[Patriot]

Just ordered my FZ1 today.

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[Greb]

[quote name='2006FJR' post='530952' date='Jan 1 2009, 06:54 PM'

I think for many it comes down to real estate. Different bikes have room in different area and often there are already other things that are installed under the seat and or fairing. In the end you can put it anywhere you want but most have it under the seat.

Agreed and also for me I wanted it where it was easily accessable should I need to change a fuse or add a circuit. I was able to easily fish a 3/8" I/D piece of wire loom from the left panel where the glove box is under and along the tank and up into the space under the seat without lifting the tank. This ensured that it wouldn't get pinched. I then pulled the eight wires I needed through the loom to the Fuzeblock, relay and garage door opener under the seat. Whatever I could ground upfront I did to reduce the number of wires to the Fuzeblock.

Got it, many thanks

Just ordered my FZ1 today.
Mike in Nawlins'

Is it still on backorder?

 

[Wetdog]

"Those 4 items require 90 amps."

I don't have any hard numbers, but I will bet the farm that those devices use nothing near a total of 90 (!!!) amps. 30 amps of heat at 12 volts (=360 watts) would probably give your butt emergency room injuries, not to mention lighting your bike seat on fire.

Hello I had similar questions and I beleive I got some good info from a fellow form member(ionbeam):

The Gen I stator has a maximum output of 490 watts. Best guess over the years has been that the Gen I has roughly 100 watts to spare for farkles. The Gen I stator is rated for 35 amps @ 14 volts @ 5,000 rpm <-- and it is important to note that below 5k rpm your charging system is putting out a much smaller amount of current. I would guess that at idle you have something around 40-50 watts to play with.

The Gen II electrical system was upgraded to 590 watts giving non AE models 200 to 210 watts to play with. The AE servos consume ??? extra watts so if your FJR is an AE you should expect that the servos will take ~40-60 watts leaving 150 to 170 watts for farkles. The Gen II stator is rated for 42 amps @ 14 volts @ 5,000 rpm.

If you think you may be pushing the electrical envelope I would recommend that you install a volt meter like a Datel and connect it to the battery through an ignition switched relay. It is possible to connect the Datel directly to the battery with no switching because it draws so little power – though I wouldn’t.

QUOTE

you seem like a knowledgeable person

It's amazing how you can fool some people on the internet

Nice talkin' with ya!

ionbeam

 

[Patriot]

Just ordered my FZ1 today.
Mike in Nawlins'

Is it still on backorder?

there was no indication when I placed my order it was a backorder

they were discounted 10% for 4 weeks from Thanksgiving to Christmas because stock was out and on order

now they are full price and I think available since my order went through fine with no indication of a problem

 

[Gizmo]

They are not on back order. I received mine within a week after ordering. Already started to plan out the wiring :clapping:

 

[Greb]

Just ordered my FZ1 today.
Mike in Nawlins'

Is it still on backorder?

there was no indication when I placed my order it was a backorder

they were discounted 10% for 4 weeks from Thanksgiving to Christmas because stock was out and on order

now they are full price and I think available since my order went through fine with no indication of a problem

They are not on back order. I received mine within a week after ordering. Already started to plan out the wiring :clapping:

Sweet, thanks :yahoo:

 

[painman]

Just as a side to this thread, I'm in the process of installing the AP-2 along with some other items to help clean up the battery and hopefully get some things in order I've been putting off. And yes I am a rookie with all this.

And in researching my plan of attack, I noticed a note in reading that said that fuses are mistakingly thought of as protecting the device installed on the bike when really they are there to protect the wiring involved to keep from over-heating and meltdown that could cause a fire and possiblly destroy the bike. And said wiring is better over-engineered ie. have the heavier gauge wire is better than not to handle that load. Same theory as used in one's house. And also one could obtain the voltage readout on your Escort radar detector. Not sure about the Valentine. Just some possible tips. Just my .02 peso's worth. PM. <><

 

[BwanaDik]

Doing my "search" thing and came up with this thread. Looks like the choices are

Blue Seas (high power, bulky)

Fuze Block (lower power, no-brainer install)

Centech AP-1/2 (Need cable loom)

Eastern Beaver (similar to Fuzeblock?)

The Eastern Beaver appears to be a relatively newish item. Stumbled across it from another thread about lighting.

Any further opinions about which one is The Shit? I was leaning towards the Eastern Beaver kit until I read about the Fuzeblock. Now I'm not so sure.

Related: If I get a loom from Eastern Beaver and mount my "whatever" in the tail section of the bike, how long should it be (I've done a rough measuring tape thing last night and it looks to be a minimum of three feet from the battery to the tail section. Correct?)

 

[Patriot]

Doing my "search" thing and came up with this thread. Looks like the choices are
Blue Seas (high power, bulky)

Fuze Block (lower power, no-brainer install)

Centech AP-1/2 (Need cable loom)

Eastern Beaver (similar to Fuzeblock?)

The Eastern Beaver appears to be a relatively newish item. Stumbled across it from another thread about lighting.

Any further opinions about which one is The Shit? I was leaning towards the Eastern Beaver kit until I read about the Fuzeblock. Now I'm not so sure.

Related: If I get a loom from Eastern Beaver and mount my "whatever" in the tail section of the bike, how long should it be (I've done a rough measuring tape thing last night and it looks to be a minimum of three feet from the battery to the tail section. Correct?)

I currently have a Fuzeblock FZ-1 installed and in use and I like it just fine. It's small enough that it's stored behind the dash to the right of the lcd display in the cavity next to the windshield mechanism arm. It's close to the battery there, but not as easy to get to for repair or fuse replacement if it was under the seat. Note: the fuzeblock folks are on vacation and no shipments will be made till at least July 23rd

That being said, I would highly consider the Eastern Beaver PC-8 if I was in the market again. I'd still want it to be small enough to fit in that lil cavity, but if it did or I was going to mount it somewhere else with plenty enough room for it to fit, then I'd probably go with that one.

Battery to tail section...use a sewing type cloth tape measure to closely approximate the run accurately with the curves and run taking into consideration...then add at least 6-12" in length to that for your relay harness length.

hope this helps

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[painman]

The Eastern Beaver is the same setup as the AP-2 which I installed in my glovebox. Easy to get to and it is held in place by velcro so all I have to do is peal it out if I need to change a fuse. And I still have space under my seats and in the tail section. I left an extra 1.5' of lead coiled up in the box so this can be done. Simple and I didn't ever use the glovebox anyway.

I bought the AP-2 and the harness from Jeff at BikeEffects. He is a forum member here and has most anything you need for your FJR and the customer support is unsurpassed and no waiting as you experienced. Take care, Painman. <>< BikeEffects

 

[user 6393]

Mine is from a marine parts supply. As it is intended for use on a boat, it is built to withstand vibration and damp conditions

Bonus is it's small size. I have a FB and relay under my Gen 1 seat and still room for a 12V compressor.

 

[Shawn]

I like the combo fuze block and relay offered by https://fuzeblocks.com. Unit is smaller than the BueSea and has an integrated Relay. Pretty clever design in that you have the option of (6) terminals either direct 12 volt or switched in a nice compact package
Pat

That's one of the coolest things I have ever seen!

Added to the list ...