Have you ever had a flat tire?

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Re: sticky string plugs, the two tools needed (reamer and plug insertion) come in two designs: one type is tee-shaped, which makes it a little easier to push through the hole, but the other type has regular screwdriver type handles, which makes them smaller packing to fit under the seat. Keep a set of the tee handles at home in the garage, and the screwdriver handles under the seat. Have used both types many times, both on motorcycles and on cars, always successfully.

Also, no real need for the rubber cement. I will use it if I have some on hand, but the plugs still work without it. It does make it marginally easier to insert the plugs when lubed with glue.

My most dire need for them came early on a two up cross country vacation ride with my wife. Noted flat (hey... it was only flat on the bottom) after a rest stop in the Michigan UP. We had just gone through some construction, so that must have been the cause. Never found a nail, just a little tiny hole. Tire was brand new when we had left home, so only had about 1200 miles on it. Plugged it in the rest area and rode that tire for the rest of our 6000 mile vacation.

Sticky strings FTW!

 
When the late John Ryan was preparing for his record run from Deadhorse to Key West he stayed at our place in Fairbanks for several days. It took John three tries to get to Deadhorse. The first time he was thwarted by ice on Atigun Pass. Jack Gustafson rode with John on a KLR and Jack was able to get the KLR up the pass. Jack enjoyed ribbing John about this, but Jack has ridden the Haul Road over a dozen times. On the second attempt John got a flat in the vicinity of Coldfoot. He had to use seven sticky strings to get the tire to hold air well enough to limp back to Fairbanks while needing to put air in the tire regularly. On his third attempt, John made it to Deadhorse, but in the back of a truck after he lost most of the oil out of his bike from a hole a rock punched in his oil pan. He was able to get the hole welded in Deadhorse and the rest is history.

 
When the late John Ryan was preparing for his record run from Deadhorse to Key West he stayed at our place in Fairbanks for several days. It took John three tries to get to Deadhorse. The first time he was thwarted by ice on Atigun Pass. Jack Gustafson rode with John on a KLR and Jack was able to get the KLR up the pass. Jack enjoyed ribbing John about this, but Jack has ridden the Haul Road over a dozen times. On the second attempt John got a flat in the vicinity of Coldfoot. He had to use seven sticky strings to get the tire to hold air well enough to limp back to Fairbanks while needing to put air in the tire regularly. On his third attempt, John made it to Deadhorse, but in the back of a truck after he lost most of the oil out of his bike from a hole a rock punched in his oil pan. He was able to get the hole welded in Deadhorse and the rest is history.
I have had at least one puncture on every rear tyre (on the FJR). The worst was four puntures, all different and all fixed with sticky strings.

On my most recent puncture I had great difficulty getting the string to hold. I noticed when I was putting a twist in that the ends of the string were also rotating with the tool. I realised that the string was too cold, air temp was about 2 Deg C! I put a new string on the exhaust pipe for a few minutes, this made a huge difference. It went in easily, put the 1 1/2 turns in to form a knot, leak sealed.....

I have used the "Stop n Go Pocket Plugger" with very good results but only on punctures caused by nice clean round objects such as nails.

Most of my problems are caused by sharp pieces of flint. Any Neolithic hunter would be proud to use them................

 
Knock on wood I have been lucky.

Probably put about 125k miles on various bikes since I started riding a few years ago.

One flat tire and it went flat in the garage. Must have punctured it right before I got home.

 
Used ta carry "worms" 'n CO2 cartridges, butt then I gotta hole sooooo big, the worm(s) couldn't plug it, 'n even after use'in all my CO2s (Think I had 4.) and my buddies, (Another 7) I could just barely limp to a shop where they dun gouged me $320 fer a rear tire. Not I carry Stop 'n Go, and a slime pump.

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DO NOT PLAN ON USING THE GLOVE BOX AUX POWER SUPPLY FOR AN AIR COMPRESSOR.
The glove box is an AUX supply for small loads like phone, gps, etc. It is fused at 3 amps and will not handle a 7-12 amp air compressor. That's why you see where many folks list another power source for this.
Has anyone tried to replace the 3A fuse with a larger one - or is it shared with other devices? On my ST1300 I installed a 12V outlet and I always use it when adding air to my tires - no problems at all. I haven't checked the AMP rating on my compressor though, but it's a standard small model used for cars, motorcycles etc. I am surely planning to use the outlet as power supply for the compressor - even if it means that I have to replace the wiring and fuse to support this...

 
I have had my share of flats during the past five years. I generally fix them with sticky strings for a quick fix, and then replace it with a proper inside plug once I have more time. I have had a few sticky strings leak slowly over time...

 
DO NOT PLAN ON USING THE GLOVE BOX AUX POWER SUPPLY FOR AN AIR COMPRESSOR.
The glove box is an AUX supply for small loads like phone, gps, etc. It is fused at 3 amps and will not handle a 7-12 amp air compressor. That's why you see where many folks list another power source for this.
Has anyone tried to replace the 3A fuse with a larger one - or is it shared with other devices? On my ST1300 I installed a 12V outlet and I always use it when adding air to my tires - no problems at all. I haven't checked the AMP rating on my compressor though, but it's a standard small model used for cars, motorcycles etc. I am surely planning to use the outlet as power supply for the compressor - even if it means that I have to replace the wiring and fuse to support this...
When they put a 3 amp fuse in they use 3 amp capable wiring as well.

 
DO NOT PLAN ON USING THE GLOVE BOX AUX POWER SUPPLY FOR AN AIR COMPRESSOR.
The glove box is an AUX supply for small loads like phone, gps, etc. It is fused at 3 amps and will not handle a 7-12 amp air compressor. That's why you see where many folks list another power source for this.
Has anyone tried to replace the 3A fuse with a larger one - or is it shared with other devices? On my ST1300 I installed a 12V outlet and I always use it when adding air to my tires - no problems at all. I haven't checked the AMP rating on my compressor though, but it's a standard small model used for cars, motorcycles etc. I am surely planning to use the outlet as power supply for the compressor - even if it means that I have to replace the wiring and fuse to support this...
When they put a 3 amp fuse in they use 3 amp capable wiring as well.
What he said. The wiring for the oem glovebox power port is tiny. You might get lucky once or twice, or just start a fire the first time you try it. Not worth the hassle.

Lots of people just wire in a fused SAE pigtail, like used with Battery Tenders or various heated gear. My heated gear uses a Co-Ax connector, but my Optimate 3 maintenance charger does use a fused SAE plug, so that's where i plug in for the Slime pump.

I just cut off the cig plug and wired up an SAE plug on the compressor. I have adapters, but just didn't want to have to dig anything else out if I was fixing a flat. SAE plugs can be found in the trailer wiring section of most NAPA stores. They come in a loop, with two connectors. Pay attention if you are using both to wire up devices, as the positive wire needs to be the recessed one, not the exposed pin. Color codes will be correct, (red for pos, black for neg), on ONE of those, with the other reversed. I screwed this up once on a GPS connection. Made for a mystery short when the unplugged GPS power connector would bump against the bars and pop the fuse.

 
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There's other advantages too for having a Battery Tender fused line from the battery. Sure, it'll do your compressor but it's multipurpose, there's all kinds of little do-dads you can plug in. Like a usb adapter to power a phone, gps, radar detector, etc. Or a voltage meter. Or a flashlight to fix a flat at night. Or even a Battery Tender during a long winter. Etc., etc.

Plus, if you're new to the FJR scene and not dealt with the wiring set up, well, good luck! Replacing wires may look good on paper but in reality start by buying new coolant and coolant pipe o-rings b/c the pipe has to come out. And even tho yours is a 2016, don't be surprised if you come across a ground spider or two. Then you'll have to decide if you want to continue replacing or just pull new wires. I've been there..... https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/170085-my-spider-bite-story/?hl=%22spider+bite%22

 
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. I am surely planning to use the outlet as power supply for the compressor - even if it means that I have to replace the wiring and fuse to support this...
Have fun cutting out, re-running the up-sized wire, re-soldering to the fuse panel, and re-wrapping the wiring loom. That sounds like quite an ambitious project!
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One option if you really like the placement of that particular outlet is to run a fresh wire from the battery...assuming one can connect a beefier wire to it. I can't remember if they're a spade connector or if the small-gauge wire is bonded into it...or even what guage wire it is.

But as many have noted, the efforts might be better spent on an SAE pigtail (the super-easy route) or since cigarette adapters kinda suck to begin with, a 15 amp Powerlet that has far more than enough capacity for a typical inflator/compressor that surges to about 10 amps at startup and works well then for battery tenders, powered tank bags, electric clothing, or other needs. Them folks that make Powerlet/BMW plugs are some smart fellers! Definitely in my top 5 farkles.

 
I carry the air pump that Aerostitch sells and sticky strings. Since we travel to very remote areas (Alaska / Yukon), we also carry spare tires, marc panes balancer with stick on weights, an Aerostitch bead breaker, torque wrench, a small can of aerosol hair spray (to seat the tire). You have to be self reliant or you could be waiting days to get things taken care of. And some small tire irons and rim protectors.

mini compressor: https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-mini-compressor.html

Bead breaker: https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-bead-breaker.html

 
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There's other advantages too for having a Battery Tender fused line from the battery. Sure, it'll do your compressor but it's multipurpose, there's all kinds of little do-dads you can plug in. Like a usb adapter to power a phone, gps, radar detector, etc. Or a voltage meter. Or a flashlight to fix a flat at night. Or even a Battery Tender during a long winter. Etc., etc.
Plus, if you're new to the FJR scene and not dealt with the wiring set up, well, good luck! Replacing wires may look good on paper but in reality start by buying new coolant and coolant pipe o-rings b/c the pipe has to come out. And even tho yours is a 2016, don't be surprised if you come across a ground spider or two. Then you'll have to decide if you want to continue replacing or just pull new wires. I've been there..... https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/170085-my-spider-bite-story/?hl=%22spider+bite%22
^THIS^

I don't even own a battery tender, butt I'm wired up fer one to use w/ mah Slime pump.

 
+1 - My battery tender cable does multi-duty too. I have it coming up from the battery just behind the steering stem, ahead of the tank.

Under ever day circumstances I have a cable plugged into it from a multi port adapter kept inside of my tank bag. That in turn powers my GPS, radar detector, and starcom1 intercom and also provides extra ports to recharge cell phones, bluetooth headset modules, etc.

In a flat tire emergency, my Motopump inflation compressor has an SAE cable that plugs right into it. I do keep the engine running so the battery doesnt run down.

And in the all too long winter months I can directly hook up a battery tender (Optima 3) for a week every month or so to keep the battery in good shape.

On my Vstrom I made a longer tender cable so I could run the end to the same location from the battery under the seat.

There are so many uses for a battery tender cable it may be the most indispensable farkle on a bike!

 
This was a great thread. I've carried the pocket stop and go plug kit with CO2 cartridges for many, many years.....and have avoided a flat to this point. With so many recommending sticky string I've added those and a mini air compressor to replace the stop and go kit. I was always a bit worried about those CO2 cartridges......

 
I have had three on the fjr, one on another bike. One I plugged (other bike), one I called for a rollback (dark, interstate, no shoulder to speak of, covered by insurance.) The others I aired up and limped to a shop. I carry a plug kit and co2, and use tpms. I had none of those things when those flats occurred. I’ve seen a traditional plug last a long time. I’d have no problem plugging a tire and continuing a trip. But I’d have an inside patch/plug put on at the earliest opportunity. Just me.

Have you ever had a flat tire? Were you prepared? What kind of fix did you have? My New Years resolution is to ride more, so yesterday I met with bud's to plan a trip. Got me thinking ,,,I don't carry any flat fix stuff. Went to web,,,Most guy's are using the traditional reamer and plug system, but those Dynaplugs looks cool,and how about those mushroom things, I wonder how well they work? What are you using? Do you think C0/2 cartridge's or air pump? I have never had a flat, but still should be prepared.
 
I’d have no problem plugging a tire and continuing a trip. But I’d have an inside patch/plug put on at the earliest opportunity. Just me.
And that right there is part of "the problem". I know of no bike shop, independent or otherwise, anywhere near me that will patch a previously plugged tire. None of the auto tire places will do it either, I've tried. Heck, my local Honda shop is refusing to mount car tires on hippos anymore. They'll be glad to gouge you nearly $300 for one tire tho.....

 
I’d have no problem plugging a tire and continuing a trip. But I’d have an inside patch/plug put on at the earliest opportunity. Just me.
And that right there is part of "the problem". I know of no bike shop, independent or otherwise, anywhere near me that will patch a previously plugged tire. None of the auto tire places will do it either, I've tried. Heck, my local Honda shop is refusing to mount car tires on hippos anymore. They'll be glad to gouge you nearly $300 for one tire tho.....
Sadly, liability concerns have killed common sense and customer service on things like this.
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I have had some luck in the past bringing the dismounted tire to a car tire shop like Big O or America's Tire and getting them to install an inside plug/patch for cash, off the books. Talking to the guy in the repair bay instead of going to the counter seems to work better for me. Especially on the weekend instead of a week day.

 
Used the stop and go with mushroom plugs twice now and they have worked very well for me. Once on the back tire of my zx-14, when I took the tire off for a change I was surprised it was "melted" and had sealed the hole very well. And now still have a plugged tire on the back on my Yamaha stratoliner. Went to work and someone thoughtfully inserted a screw in my back tire (other vehicles also). I only had 800 miles on the Michelin commander 2 so I plugged it and it does not leak one bit (that was 3 thousand miles ago).

 
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