Help with trailer pigtail

[BlueKnight]

I just purchased a Time Out trailer. I have a 2010 FJR. Does anyone have any experience with or instructions for hooking up a pigtail to run trailer lights? This is new to me and I would appreciate any info that you have.

Thanks,

Charles

 

[Redfish Hunter]

I would love to know how and I am all about shorting out the electrical system on someone else's bike. PM sent.

Andrew

 

[Panman]

My link

These guys have a in-line harness that is pretty cool.

Part #: TCPH-FJR2

 

[Pepperell]

hoppy converter

 

[ER RN]

I just purchased a Time Out trailer. I have a 2010 FJR. Does anyone have any experience with or instructions for hooking up a pigtail to run trailer lights? This is new to me and I would appreciate any info that you have.

Thanks,

Charles

Based on what I saw here My linkI don't think you need a converter. Just did out the wiring diagram in your manual.

Harvey

 

[fljab]

I just purchased a Time Out trailer. I have a 2010 FJR. Does anyone have any experience with or instructions for hooking up a pigtail to run trailer lights? This is new to me and I would appreciate any info that you have.

Thanks,

Charles

Based on what I saw here My linkI don't think you need a converter. Just did out the wiring diagram in your manual.

Harvey

Hello all; I haven't been that active lately here but had a trailer-esque dilemma and of course found the answer - almost - here.

I read about the Hoppy converter above and did some homework on the phone; found a trailer place (after 5 phone calls) down near Cocoa, FL on US 1 that stocks Hoppys so will go in the morning if need be ----

BUTT - I had a thought (always dangerous for me); the main issue is converting from the FJR brake & turn signal that is separate vs a combined brake/turn on the trailer - well, mine's not a trailer really but same problem so lets pretend it is.

So, A: I am running LED lights on the "appendage" , and B: IF I add another LED light set solely for the turn signals, then no converter required, correct? I can then just run a 5 wire harness grafted into my FJR rear harness, OR will it affect ? dunno - turn signal rate - what?

What started out as a simple mod now has me with dang near the entire rear ripped off my beloved FJR..............

 

[SLK50]

When I wired for my trailer I did two things that made it easy-peasy.

First, to connect to the bike's wiring I wanted to tap in at the connector

where the rear subharness plugs into the main harness. ( behind the

left sidepanel ). For this I obtained ( from Eastern Beaver ) a matching pair

of connectors and pins and made a jumper with pigtails. The pigtails in

turn were connected to:

And Second: instead of a converter, I purchased an isolator ( from U-Haul,

<40.00 ) that powers the trailer lights directly from the battery and doesn't

add load to the bike's wiring, taking only "cues". This way, should there be

any problems with the trailer there is no effect on the bike's lighting.

The results were essentially "plug & play" and can be easily removed

returning bike to stock, if needed.

All told, I think I have less than $60.00 in it.

I've been using the setup since September and it works perfectly.

An added bonus is the trailer's LEDs have no effect on my AVCC.

 

[Millsaps2]

My link for an isolator.

My link for a FJR specific wiring harness.

The isolator powers the trailer lights from your battery. The Admore wiring has connectors specific to the FJR, wiring plug located behind the left side cover. The Admore wiring harness is typically used to add led lights to Givi trunks.

 

[fljab]

My link for an isolator.

My link for a FJR specific wiring harness.

The isolator powers the trailer lights from your battery. The Admore wiring has connectors specific to the FJR, wiring plug located behind the left side cover. The Admore wiring harness is typically used to add led lights to Givi trunks.

The isolator is a great idea - basically a set of relays in a more compact and easier to use setup - and this particular link is one I'd looked at after reading this thread originally. I found a local boat trailer place that has many products including Hoppy converters; not sure about an isolator but if not a UHaul is even closer. I'd like to get this wired in the next day or two along with my other mods so would rather do the parts hunting local if I can.

The Admore wiring harness in the description says "Note: You must purchase a full light kit with this item." So, home wiring harness will have to do. I'm pretty good at cutting in/soldering/crimping/etc so while it would be nice to have a stock plug kit I'll just have to do it another way. Maybe I'll look at getting an Eastern Beaver kit and find a good used back harness to clean up what I need to do later on...

One of my questions was concerning the need for a convertor: I understand it is for taking/converting the FJR separate brake & turn signals to a combined output to use when you don't have an extra light. So, if I added an extra (two) lights solely for turn signals, then the convertor is not required, correct?

Thanks for the input; I appreciate it! and it's worth a beer down the road sometime, just call me on it!

 

[NightShine]

One of my questions was concerning the need for a convertor: I understand it is for taking/converting the FJR separate brake & turn signals to a combined output to use when you don't have an extra light. So, if I added an extra (two) lights solely for turn signals, then the convertor is not required, correct?

Fljab, you are correct. Your choices are:

1. Add separate trailer turn signal lights, thus making the trailer match the 5-wire system of the bike (ground, left, right, brake and marker). You can run these directly from the bike's harness.
   
2. Same as above, but run them though an isolator.
   
3. Or leave the trailer as a 4-wire system (ground, left/brake, right/brake, marker), and use a converter box to match it to your bike's 5-wire system.
   

I went the DIY isolator route myself. Went down to the local electronics surplus place, got four relay and fuze holders, put it together, and potted it all in epoxy.

I think it cost me all of $15, plus some wire I had on hand.

 

[fljab]

One of my questions was concerning the need for a convertor: I understand it is for taking/converting the FJR separate brake & turn signals to a combined output to use when you don't have an extra light. So, if I added an extra (two) lights solely for turn signals, then the convertor is not required, correct?

Fljab, you are correct. Your choices are:

1. Add separate trailer turn signal lights, thus making the trailer match the 5-wire system of the bike (ground, left, right, brake and marker). You can run these directly from the bike's harness.
   
2. Same as above, but run them though an isolator.
   
3. Or leave the trailer as a 4-wire system (ground, left/brake, right/brake, marker), and use a converter box to match it to your bike's 5-wire system.
   

I went the DIY isolator route myself. Went down to the local electronics surplus place, got four relay and fuze holders, put it together, and potted it all in epoxy.

I think it cost me all of $15, plus some wire I had on hand.

Thank You! That's what I needed to know.

I have enough extra relays/sockets to do the job if I wanted to go that way but an isolator may be more compact and the space underneath the seat & pillion is getting tight. I do have a biggish project box leftover in my big bin of electrical stuff that might work if I can find a good place for it.

One more thing to clarify - the relays - how are the posts numbered in your drawing?

As I understand relay wiring, it should be:

-12V (Neg) - post 85

+12V (Pos) - post 30

Trigger - left, rt, brake, running, from bike - post 86

Out to trailer - post 87

Does this look right?

I do not have extra lights so would have to get those. I mail ordered the ones I have now but didn't see the need for the extras at the time so will have to sort through the offerings @ the auto parts store - which due to the poor selection there is why I ordered online in the first place.

 

[mferriter]

I never understood the need for an isolator.

From what I've read here, many folks have added "on-bike" lighting simply by splicing into the existing wires running to the lights. Why not just do the same for the trailer? The motorcycle doesn't actually know if the wires are running to a trailer or to on-board lights.

 

[fljab]

I never understood the need for an isolator.

From what I've read here, many folks have added "on-bike" lighting simply by splicing into the existing wires running to the lights. Why not just do the same for the trailer? The motorcycle doesn't actually know if the wires are running to a trailer or to on-board lights.

Well, true - you can do that and prolly esp with LED's that have low draw maybe it's no big deal.

You'd use an isolator for the same reason you would relay any accessory, to protect the original factory circuits. They are set up to run what they run; when you add to that it 'can' take it out of factory specs.

In my case I have to make a decision. Adding a converter and an isolator - both of which I don't have - or setting up 4 relays (which I'll know soon if I have enough in my big tub of electrical 'stuff') + buying either 2 extra lights or a convertor adds cost + complexity.

I am tempted to just do as you say and splice in and deal with the 5 to 4 as I need to.

Now, off the 'net and to town to see/price out my options! I added to this thread originally because I didn't fully understand the problem with the 5 to 4 wire situation; the feedback makes it clear to me now and I know my choices!

 

[Auburn]

I never understood the need for an isolator.

From what I've read here, many folks have added "on-bike" lighting simply by splicing into the existing wires running to the lights. Why not just do the same for the trailer? The motorcycle doesn't actually know if the wires are running to a trailer or to on-board lights.

Insimplistic terms without getting into a bunch of calculations, adding the additional lights on the trailer you are essentually doubling the current load on the bikes wiring system. The exisitng wire system on the bike is barely adequate for the existing lights on the bike. The affect is over time the wires heat up, usually more pronounced at splice points (i.e. connectors) and you will start to see discolored and maybe melted connectors. The insulation on the wire becomes brittle and over time you will develop shorts where the insulation breaks down.

The isolator still taps into the exisitng light system, but is is only to get the signal. The isolator takes power directly from the battery through relays to activate the trailer lights. Thus preserving the bikes wireing system.

 

[Millsaps2]

My link is the FJR specific wiring harness with plugs matching the wiring harness behind the left cover below the seat. Typically used for Givi trunks, no wire cutting needed.

 

[fljab]

My link is the FJR specific wiring harness with plugs matching the wiring harness behind the left cover below the seat. Typically used for Givi trunks, no wire cutting needed.

Thanks! got one on order - I did not see this one when I looked before, just the one I noted above that couldn't be ordered w/o a light system.

I found a converter today - a hoppy 5 to 4 at a local autoparts place. On the isolator I struck out even UHaul, so either I order one, do without, or use the 4 relay setup.

 

[NightShine]

As I understand relay wiring, it should be:

-12V (Neg) - post 85

+12V (Pos) - post 30

Trigger - left, rt, brake, running, from bike - post 86

Out to trailer - post 87

I actually don't remember the pin numbering on the relays I use. They were the common automotive "5-pin" ones: ground (negative) and +12v pins for the activation coil; and +12v feed, normally-closed (unused), normally-open pins for feeding power to the trailer signals.
Oh and the battery potential is only 12 volts, remember. The positive and negative are relative only to each other. The positive battery terminal is +12v relative to the negative terminal, which is "ground" or zero volts (not -12v).

My link is the FJR specific wiring harness with plugs matching the wiring harness behind the left cover below the seat. Typically used for Givi trunks, no wire cutting needed.

There weren't any pictures on the website. Does this kit have an "isolation" function? Or is it just a handy connectorized "splice" into the FJR's wiring harness?

My link is the FJR specific wiring harness with plugs matching the wiring harness behind the left cover below the seat. Typically used for Givi trunks, no wire cutting needed.

Thanks! got one on order - I did not see this one when I looked before, just the one I noted above that couldn't be ordered w/o a light system.

I found a converter today - a hoppy 5 to 4 at a local autoparts place. On the isolator I struck out even UHaul, so either I order one, do without, or use the 4 relay setup.

Fljab, just to be clear. You would need "either" an isolator on your bike (if you make the trailer into 5-wire), "or" a converter box on your bike (if leaving your trailer as 4-wire). Not both. The 5-to-4 wire converter boxes also serve to isolate your bike's wiring harness, IIRC.
All the best on your project!

 

[fljab]

Fljab, just to be clear. You would need "either" an isolator on your bike (if you make the trailer into 5-wire), "or" a converter box on your bike (if leaving your trailer as 4-wire). Not both. The 5-to-4 wire converter boxes also serve to isolate your bike's wiring harness, IIRC.

I don't think that's right - they have different purposes. I'm looking at the hoppy converter now; it has no provision for a separate +12V in from the battery or other (more) direct source that would be triggered like a relay or isolator would.

The converter is 5 wires in: ground, marker, left, right, brake - all sourced from the factory harness (well except for ground I guess).

The 4 relay setup drawn above - and I believe an isolator - has 6: - +12V, ground, marker, left, right, brake and it is 5 out so would still need a converter to get to a 4 wire (combined turn & brake signals).

Oh, and yes, I understand that there is no -12V - I should have written ground

If nothing else, this has been a great refresher on 12V wiring! I do think the relay idea is good (altho not absolutely required) but believe it to be in addition to the converter. I did look at some LED rear lights today that I could add as dedicated turn signals so no converter would be required. I really didn't like the offerings and would have had to build brackets to mount + there is no provision/easy way to mount them on my particular use, so when I saw the hoppy converter I just went that way.

 

[Powerman]

I had a problem with my engine cutting off after I wired up for a trailer?

Started with the independent module, ended up with the isolated unit.

Also I had the ground spider for the ECU grounded to my single point ground,

I removed that. Engineering conference theorized a ground loop between

the PC3 and ECU?

Go with the isolated unit, can't hurt and only a few bucks more.