How do you get to the brake lever pivot? It seems to require removing some sort of clip from a pin connecting the pedal to the brake cylinder pushrod and I've got no clue as to how that's supposed to be done. (Could this be one of those "there's gotta be a better way" situations?)
You have to remove the rear brake master cylinder along with the pivot assembly. Remove the brake pedal, the bolts that hold on the master cylinder and the bolt under/in front of the pivot assembly. I had to remove the brake switch spring, doing this for the first time (1) look carefully (2) or take notes (3) or take a picture. It's really not hard and really should be done. I use a solvent that evaporates to clean the parts so the grease that I put on won't get thinned out, otherwise wipe the parts dry before lubing with grease.
Where is the service manual and tech info on how linked brakes work.? That is what I would be consulting instead of guessing. " brakes are kind of important"
In the Factory Service Manual the "Unified Brake System" is explained in the first section on Features. It isn't really covered in the owners manual.
WHAT???!!!
To get to the PIVOT? The one we lube during PM?
I remove the little cotter pin...It comes from the factory with the cotter pin on the inside. After you take this apart and reassemble it, put the cotter pin on the outer side, which makes life easier. Remove the brake pedal. I have found on my bike that if I don't removed the peg assembly, I can't take the moving pivot all the way out. Once the pedal is removed and the peg assembly is removed, just slide the round pivot backwards out of the hole. Grease it up and then put it back.
Every other time, I leave the peg assembly in place. I slide the pivot back as much as I can and greast the portion that sticks out the rear. Then I stuff grease and chain lube in the front. It works fine, and my brake pedal doesn't stick. Put it all back together, paying attention to the dot punched into the lever and the splined pivot...so your brake lever is adjusted as it was from the factory. If you have moved it from that marked postion, make sure you mark it before you take it apart.
Unless Alan and I are talking about two totally different things, I donno why the Master Cylinder and springs and such have to come off...
