If power is down, bike resets the odo & clock, then starts

[DrDan17]

I have a 2005 FJR that I bought 4 months ago. I'm still learning about the machine, and have experienced a strange phenomenon: if I don't follow an exact procedure for starting the bike it will momentarily shut down, clear the trip odo & reset the clock to 1:00, then it will spin the engine and start. Has anybody else experienced this & if so, any idea why it happens?

 

[Bustanut joker]

More than likely a bad battery When the charge is low it knocks that shit out.

 

[Ignacio]

Or a loose terminal.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Whoops thought it was the usual question Didn't see that part where it was running. Iggy prolly nailed it,

 

[DrDan17]

Hmmm . . . I put a new battery in about a month ago (finding it on the bike was a trip! No owner's manual) so I'll pull the covers off again & check the connections/take the battery over to the parts store & get it tested while still in warrenty. It also came with a Power2000 controller, also no documentation. Any experience with that one? I've been putzing around with the settings & I feel stupid at this point. Can't tell if increasing the number leans or richens, but I have noticed the injectors make some odd noises now when first turning on the power in the morning . . . sounds like something is pouring from one place to another & then when I start the engine I get a puff of white smoke. I'm guessing rich. I'm seriously considering disconnecting the whole thing & seeing how it runs stock, even though it has aftermarket pipes with no place for a sensor. Ideas? Help?

 

[Redfish Hunter]

The '05s ran pretty well from the factory and usually don't need much in the way of aftermarket fuel controllers. The Power Commander is the most popular fuel controller for this bike, I am not familiar with the Power2000.

Unless the fuel control module wiring connections are compromising the integrity of the main battery terminal connections I would not think it would be causing the resetting. I would think either a bad/weak battery or bad connections or both. Bad connections can lead to less than optimal charging of the battery so the one problem can contribute to the other.

 

[DrDan17]

That makes sense, especially after reading some other threads with similar problems. I have found that if I "feel" like it's going to reset & I turn everything off & go thru my normal routine of neutral, power on, kill switch on then starter everything generally goes ok. Probably a weak battery, but not fatally, until I'm far from home. Time to test the battery & return all settings back to when I bought it I'd say. Oh, the f.i. thing is a "Fi2000R Fuel Injection Module". Any experience?

Thank you.

 

[HotRodZilla]

You don't "need" that module, even with the pipes. If your getting funny sounds and smells, I'd bypass that until I could download a manual and know what does what. When you first turn the key on, you should hear the fuel pump priming. A 3-4 second whirring/buzzing sound. That's normal.

Also, owner's manuals are available from Yamaha's website. Download one. You'll be glad you did. Good luck.

 

[mcatrophy]

"... normal routine of neutral, power on, kill switch on then starter ..." - With the kill switch in the "stop" position, the fuel pump won't run, so bear that in mind when reading HRZ's comment of fuel pump running for 3-4 seconds.

 

[audiowize]

This is similar to what I experience if I have a warm bike, then turn it off for a few minutes, then try to restart it. It is not a bad battery, but rather something else that I haven't been able to identify. Based on your location, I'm guessing your bike is always pretty warm!

 

[ionbeam]

The odometer and clock resets when the battery voltage drops too low. The most common causes are a weak battery (obviously), battery terminals that are loose (or bad) followed by a starter motor issue.

(Assuming the battery is good, fully charged, battery cables are good and the connections tight.) When turning off a fully warmed engine and attempting to start it again after a short pause like filling with gas, and you get an odometer/clock reset, it is highly likely to be the starter motor. The fastest, most sure way to diagnose the starter motor is to put a current meter on the battery and measure the starting current. A good starter will draw in the 40-50 amp range, a starter that is going bad will easily draw 70-90 amps or more.