Ignition cuts out when put in gear even though side stand switch has been bypassed

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tonyklas

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2016
Messages
17
Reaction score
3
Location
langley, bc
A year ago my ignition began cutting out while riding. I quickly traced it to the side stand switch as the bike would fire up just fine while in neutral but as soon as I put it in gear it would die instantly. I cut off the corroded switch and shorted the wires with a wire nut. All was fine for a year but now the same problem is back. Problem is, theres no longer a switch to defeat as the wires are still securely tied together. This problem isnt always on and it is intermittent but obviously the bike is not usable until the problem is resolved.

Im terrible with electrical issues so I took it into Yamaha dealer thinking it would be a simple thing for them to trace this very specific problem and simply bypass the switch properly and permanently. They said they couldnt recreate the problem while in the shop so they couldnt fix anything. So Im on my own.

Can one of you fellow FJR enthusiasts help me out here? I have the full service manual with the wiring diagram but Im not sure how to proceed. I was thinking I could just cut open the wire bundles and trace the side stand switch wires back to their source and jump them together? If I mess this up though then Im worried the bike is really pooched :(

 
Wire nuts don't keep out the weather. You may have new corrosion in there. I'd dig into them, separate them, clean then retwist them, then dielectric grease the connection before water proofing them with liquid tape (you should see the blob when done right - mechanical connection from the twist, wire nut, electrical tape, then liquid tape the hell out of it). Alternately, solder them and use a weather sealing shrink wrap on the junction (what I'd probably do if I wasn't going to replace the switch).

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wire nuts don't keep out the weather. You may have new corrosion in there. I'd dig into them, separate them, clean then retwist them, then dielectric grease the connection before water proofing them with liquid tape (you should see the blob when done right - mechanical connection from the twist, wire nut, electrical tape, then liquid tape the hell out of it). Alternately, solder them and use a weather sealing shrink wrap on the junction (what I'd probably do if I wasn't going to replace the switch).
Good advice. I’ll start with that before I proceed to jump the wrong wires and short out the ecu... Thanks Bounce

 
Wire nuts have no business being used on a MC. I like butt splices with the heat shrink ends, or soldered wires and heat shrink with the sealant inside.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Even if the switch doesn't fix your problem I would replace it. It is very rare at best that I forget about putting the kick stand up but it has happened two or three times over the past five years and I am thankful for it.

Good luck, I hope that's all it is. Chasing electrical issues can be a headache.

 
<p>The last bike I had that didn't have one had me going straight when I wanted to go left during an MSF course. Lots of stop/start that day and I spaced out about the side stand. Left turn? I don't think so.</p>

 
Last edited by a moderator:
You should be able to tell via the "Diagnostic" function whether the ECU "thinks" the sidestand is down or up.
Are you referring to accessing fault codes by following a sequence of controls to bring them up? I have spent a lot of time searching unsuccessfully for a way to do this. I have looked in this forum and others and on the internet as well. Can you point me to instructions on how to do this?

 
Instructions for using the Diagnostic codes to observe sensor readbacks or test various actuators are in the Service Manual.

There is no simple set of instructions that I know of. (Sidestand switch is Diagnostic code 20)

 
See if this helps -

DIAGNOSTIC MODE

Setting the diagnostic mode

1. Turn the main switch to “OFF”.

2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump.

3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”,

and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.

NOTE:

• All displays on the meter disappear except the odometer/tripmeter/fuel reserve tripmeter displays.

• “dIAG” appears on the odometer/tripmeter/fuel reserve tripmeter LCD.

4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the CO adjustment mode “Co” or the diagnostic mode “dIAG”.

5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or

more to activate the diagnostic mode. The diagnostic code number “d:01” appears on the clock LCD.

6. Select the diagnostic code number corresponding to the fault code number by pressing the “SELECT”

and “RESET” buttons.

NOTE:

• To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET”

button for 1 second or longer to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.

• To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT”

button for 1 second or longer to automatically increase the diagnostic code numbers.

7. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.

• Sensor operation

The data representing the operating conditions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.

• Actuator operation

Set the engine stop switch to “ ” to operate the actuator.

NOTE:

If the engine stop switch is set to “ ”, set it to “ ”, and then set it to “ ” again.

8. Turn the main switch to “OFF” to cancel the diagnostic mode.

Diag code 20

ON is sidestand retracted

OFF is sidestand extended

 
Thanks for those instructions, that's awesome. Where did you find those? I'd like a complete list of the diag codes.

 
Is that tuneup information Gen I?

There are some differences in diagnostics displays and things like segments in the display vs temperature.

Not sure if suspension settings and specifications are identical between generations either.

Gen III+ is, of course, another beast entirely with respect to displays and spark plugs. And ES suspension.

 
I ran the diagnostics and it came up with 5 seemingly unrelated fault codes. I reset them so I can see if any new codes pop up. I cleaned up the wires as per suggestions above. Engine runs just fine while in gear in the shop. Now just waiting for a dry day in rainy Vancouver so I can road test it. Might be awhile.....

 
Top