Isabella going in shop -> Maintence time

[SkooterG]

It can go bad in a short time and is one of the very few things on these bikes that can leave you stranded in BFE.

Gonna be one of the few times I disagree with you Fred. A bit of Chicken Little there. The sky really isn't falling.

110k on my first CCT. (It was making noise for about 20k miles - at that time I was the first and was unaware of the perils) 2nd (non-blue dot) CCT had 116k on it when bike was totalled and was quiet as a tomb. Currently 60k on the 2nd FJR and all is well. I do have a blue dot CCT waiting to go in, but I will wait until it starts making some noise. Sure, it doesn't hurt to put one in early, but not really necessary imho.

Oh, on my last set of PR2s - 18k on the rear, 17k on the front, though they did handle like COMPLETE ASS for the last several thousand miles. If you ride like an old man, I must ride like a great, great grand-mother. Or mi bastard step-pappy beemerdons. :lol:

 

[Patriot]

I'm not certain that all 2nd gen CCTs are the new and improved version. Make sure that yours has a blue dot and the plunger sticks out further (have to compare to pictures unless you have an old one to compare to).

Besides that, all I have to say is: How the hell to you get that much mileage on your tires? My rear PR2 gave out at only ~ 9k miles and I ride like an old man. I find your mileages truly amazing.

it's definitely the new one with blue dot and never needed as old engine didn't "require" it

it will be changed with the valve check

tires: I repeat...80%+ is doing 9 over the speed limit with AVCC set just cruising along the slab

it's obvious...only the middle wears down to wear bars...check pressures every 2-3 weeks with exactly 42 rear and 40 front

my 221# plus a good 35# of gear with TM armor plus tools plus in right side bag, and bottles of water, ice chest, etc in trunk and clothes personal stuff in left hard bag

I guess it all works for me...133k on bike today...133-93...40k on engine by me since Dec 6, 2009...plus (used engine) with 10k when installed...

so total 50k on engine

I've put aside doing a CT on rear...and I don't see going to an unknown like the PR3 since "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" attitude

 

[Patriot]

OH THE SHAME...attention: there's no need to report Isabella stolen !!!

valve check and possible adjust

new improved CCT

new Iridiums

air cleaner service

front PR2

rear Exalto A/S

145k on odo

 

[HotRodZilla]

OH THE SHAME...attention: there's no need to report Isabella stolen !!!

valve check and possible adjust

new improved CCT

new Iridiums

air cleaner service

front PR2

rear Exalto A/S

145k on odo

I knew it was just a matter of time before those dark-side turds flipped you. Oh....The shame.

 

[Patriot]

OH FUPTARD...my Odyssey mini van transmission gave up the ghost halfway on my 100mi trip to Mississippi towing the bike

good news is the logistics sorted out ok with van at dealership and bike/trailer back home

Thank You AAAplus for getting the van back to Nawlins' and Thank You PGR buddy for picking me and the bike/trailer with your truck and getting us to my house

there were bum transmissions built and recalled (I wanna say called the type "6") on '99-'01 Odyssey"s and Accords.

transmission gave up the ghost at 45k, 90k,(both replaced under warranty)...and now at 135k

they acknowledged the problem and sent out notices to owners that extended the trans warranty from stock 36k mi to 100k mi.

but the news is they will ask Ma Honda, but the hard line policy is nothing can/will be done on an over 100k miles vehicle

so, I'm screwed on multi human transportation...the cheapest way out is the $2000-$2500 rebuilt/repair of the trans I have

I'm grateful I was able to limp down the road a mile or two to the interstate exit of Kentwood, LA and have transport of bike & van available and done within a few hours.

 

[Fred W]

Mike,

Sorry to hear about your transmission woes. I think in that situation, while the vehicle is obviously out of warranty at 100k, the transmission that they last replaced only has 45k miles on it. I would ask if they stand behind their repairs and their product like they claim to. Honda has built a reputation (at no small cost to them) for trouble-free reliability. A lot of their sales are based on that very image. (It sure isn't due to the excitement of driving them... )

Having to swap out transmissions every 45k miles doesn't fit with that image. How would they feel if the word were to get out about this? How would it effect their current and future sales if a news station happened to get wind that they have a series of transmissions that blow out every 45 k miles and they aren't standing behind them? You might even drag out the "lemon" phrase (although the lemon laws will not apply), as it sure seems they still haven't figured out what the root cause is with those transmissions. They keep going out at 45k miles...

 

[FJReady]

and I ride like an old man.

Fred,

I think you're confused. Old age will do that. You ARE and old man, you don't ride like one.

 

[marcusorelius]

Small claims court, If somethins DEFECTIVE Warranty Smorenty it don't matter

 

[Fred W]

and I ride like an old man.

Fred,

I think you're confused. Old age will do that. You ARE and old man, you don't ride like one.

Gee Russ,

Thanks for clearing that up for me.

What would I do without a good friend's help? :huh:

 

[Patriot]

minivan trans repaired...I shudder at the possibility of the van getting totaled in a wreck

bike on trailer and will be towed to Tylertown...CT already mounted...now front brake goes away and lever must be pumped to be effective

guess it wudda sucked to bring it in, and then had to bring it in again for the brake work

seems reasonable to have the clutch and rear brake serviced as well. I wish I could affort a new rear disc...mine looks like hell

 

[Patriot]

...now front brake goes away and lever must be pumped to be effective

Nov '11

was front wheel bearings going away and alignment of disc wobble

valve check - no adjustment

replace front tire

CCT replaced with new Gen2 unit

ride 5,000 miles

Feb '12

bring bike and bad front & rear wheel bearings replaced with all seals etc

front with "all bearings" ... rear with Yamaha as that's only supplier found

pick up bike last Sat early morning

ride 100mi Sunday and on way home mid day, engine runs weak, especially off the line...helmet off and unusual metal "slap" or vibration I'm worried is cam chain slack, as coming from cam chain cover. Ride it home on slab, pull into garage and kill engine with no more running. Push up on trailer monday and bring to shop 10am Tue.

Aaron, my mechanic, with bike on trailer spins it with kill switch on, then starts it and immediately declares far right cylinder dead. I leave it and he and his Dad call me...in a few hours the engine is out and head removed. #4 exhaust valve burnt from excessive heat and not seating completely. compression test: they report 3 cyl 200 and #4 50.

find cyl #4 header pipe 80% closed from impact damage. Damn my dirt bike skills and fearlessness with obstacles. Gonna fix it...Pulled all valves for close inspection to determine total parts that should be replaced with any question. Found a pristine '03 used header on ebay and am having it shipped to shop...total $105.

only other cause of heat could be injector issue with lean mixture...fuel system has full 155k miles. Engine 60k mi.

Poor Isabella is sick...

 

[SkooterG]

Damn Mike. That sucks.

You got any photos of what the head/cylinders looked like? How much carbon?

Any ideas as to why the valve would not seat?

 

[Patriot]

Damn Mike. That sucks.

You got any photos of what the head/cylinders looked like? How much carbon?

Any ideas as to why the valve would not seat?

excessive heat caused by cyl #4 header pipe 80% closed from impact damage for many thousands of miles

no carbon found...I use shop's advice-recommended seafoam often along with Yammy Ring Free every 5-10k miles

no photos as bike is 100mi away at indep repair shop who does all my bike work that I choose not to do

they mentioned the difficulty of removing the head bolts and the two snap-on sockets that broke

 

[RossKean]

If you didn't have bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all!

There seems to have been a rash of FJR engine troubles here lately. While it may not be any consolation to you, at least there is an obvious root cause in your case. What did you hit to crush the header pipe? Were you aware it was damaged or was it only discovered in the shop after you had problems? If it was known to exist before, I'm surprised that the techs didn't STRONGLY recommend fixing it when you had the last service work done. No amount of additives are going to fix a real physical problem or prevent that problem from doing more damage!

Hope you can get it fixed for a reasonable cost and are back on the road soon! Condolences to Isabella.

Ross

 

[BikerGeek99]

Poor Isabella is sick...

Holy crapola, Mike...

Sounds like you're on the road to getting her back on the road, though.

Least ya didn't crack the block like that weirdo out in Creston did...

 

[dcarver]

Poor Isabella is sick...

Holy crapola, Mike...

Sounds like you're on the road to getting her back on the road, though.

Least ya didn't crack the block like that weirdo out in Creston did...

Cracked *head* a-hole!

Mikee, you and me, leading the pack, as usual! :huh:

 

[Fred W]

Damn Mike. That sucks.

You got any photos of what the head/cylinders looked like? How much carbon?

Any ideas as to why the valve would not seat?

excessive heat caused by cyl #4 header pipe 80% closed from impact damage for many thousands of miles

Well, not to stir up a hornets nest here, but...

I do not understand how having a partially, or even fully, occluded exhaust pipe would result in a burnt exhaust valve. Increased exhaust back pressure would cause inefficiency in the cylinder evacuation, etc. but I don't see how that would burn a valve.

I would venture a guess that the two observations are coincidental and not necessarily related. Post hoc, ergo propter hoc?

 

[fjr vfr]

Damn Mike. That sucks.

You got any photos of what the head/cylinders looked like? How much carbon?

Any ideas as to why the valve would not seat?

excessive heat caused by cyl #4 header pipe 80% closed from impact damage for many thousands of miles

Well, not to stir up a hornets nest here, but...

I do not understand how having a partially, or even fully, occluded exhaust pipe would result in a burnt exhaust valve. Increased exhaust back pressure would cause inefficiency in the cylinder evacuation, etc. but I don't see how that would burn a valve.

I would venture a guess that the two observations are coincidental and not necessarily related. Post hoc, ergo propter hoc?

I have to agree with that. You would think the cylinder with the restriction would run cooler not hotter. I remember back to several bikes I had in the sixties and seventies that had dented in exhaust pipes and none overheated. The thing I remember was guys that had short straight pipes having to worry about burning a valve or cracking the valve seat from cold air when the engine was shut down while hot.

 

[Patriot]

then it would run freezing cold if I crimp a cyl header closed

red hot gases can't get out...

 

[Donal]

then it would run freezing cold if I crimp a cyl header closed

red hot gases can't get out...

If they can't get out then fuel can't get in

Don