Leaking Rear Gearcase

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Colin24

IBA# 446
Joined
Jun 28, 2005
Messages
334
Reaction score
33
Location
Carleton Place, ON
Okay, I have myself an issue here. The rear gearcase on my 2005 FJR has been slowly spewing gearcase oil all over the rear wheel for most of this summer. So now that winters here it is time to address this problem.

I have already tried replacing the seal that is on the driveshaft itself. This was easy, and didn't fix the problem. Unfortunately the leak is coming from the seal that is underneath that one. I've been looking into this and it doesn't look promising. There is a metal "cup" that has teeth on the inside of it, this is what the driveshaft slots into. I need to hold it still while I loosen the bolt in the middle. Once the cup is removed the leaking seal is underneath it. From what I can see in the shop manual I need at least one special tool to do this. And what I dont know is how much further I would need to disassemble to get that one seal out?

Has anybody ever had to replace this inner seal? Heck, has anyone ever had to dissassemble the gear case? If so, any comments? Do I need to reshim, or since I am just replacing a seal will all the shims and alignments still be good?

FWIW: I have posted a message in the "Wanted to Buy" section of the forums here just looking for a complete replacement gearcase. I dont know which way to go yet: replace or repair. But any input from people with experience in this is appreciated!

All comments and suggestions are welcome at this point.

- Colin

 
Easy fix:

Step 1) Remove the rear wheel

Step 2) Remove the rear drive from the bike

Step 3) Drop rear drive off at dealer for repair

Reverse the steps after it's repaired.

 
Easy fix:

Step 1) Remove the rear wheel

Step 2) Remove the rear drive from the bike

Step 3) Drop rear drive off at dealer for repair

Reverse the steps after it's repaired.
No its not that easy. Every dealer I have ever dealt with has at some time F?#Ked something up. About the only thing I still let them do is tire changes when I bring the wheels into them. (And thats only because they have the tire changer and balancer and I dont.)

Keep in mind that this is so critical to get right. If I take it in I want a shop who has the special tools and has done the work before. And gotten it right. So far the shops I have talked to none have ever done this job before.

And if you think a rear drive can just be slapped together without paying attention to the details, that is simply not the case. Just ask any BMW rider about failed rear drives because they weren't shimed right....

But yeah. If there was a shop I had access to that I trusted to do the job right, I would just drop it off and let them do it. I am open to suggestions on this one. If someone knows of a shop that has succesfully repaired this seal before (they have the tools and the competency to get it right) I would love to know of them.

- Colin

 
Hi Colin,

I am in the same situation. Mine started leaking a little this summer and it is now removed and sitting on the bench. There is a very good Yamaha Mechanic that moved here from Germany that is going to replace all the seals in mine. Do you want his contact information?

Canadian FJR

 
Armchair advice as I have not actually done this surgery. I wouldn't be too concerned with the shims, unless you suspect some kind of problem with excess backlash already. In other words, there is no need to change shims or bearings or go that far into disassembly unless you are going all new bearings, etc. The way I read the service manual, it does not appear you remove the bearing retainer, bearings or pinion gear just to change the seal. The trick looks to be to get the nut off and retorque it, and you need the appropriate holding tool to keep it from turning. You could measure backlash if you have the tools, to see if you need to go deeper. You don't say how much mileage, but unless it is very high, I suspect you don't need to go there. By all means, turn everything carefully to see if the bearings are OK, but they should be.

The other tool you will need is a seal installer, which hopefully you can make with a piece of ABS pipe of the right size. As well, check to see that the vent is not clogged which may be causing a pressure build-up, but they normally are OK.

Meanwhile, maybe there's something to be learned from Canadian FJR's guy....

 
It's a pretty easy fix. I did mine about 40k back and had no new leaks. I didn't use the yamaha tools just stuff I had in the shop. Somebody on the forum had some tools to loan (I think). I think Skooter did a write up on the procedure. I did when I did mine but I'm to lazy to type it in again but it's out there in forum land somewhere.

 
Guys

Let's face it, There's not many M/C mechanics that i'd let loose on my bike. Why do you think they have containers full of spare nuts and bolts in there workshops. Cause they're left overs from your bikes,that's why.Sorry, buts it's all about get it in,get it out these days, hours and $$$$$$.

Gazza

 
Guys

Let's face it, There's not many M/C mechanics that i'd let loose on my bike. Why do you think they have containers full of spare nuts and bolts in there workshops. Cause they're left overs from your bikes,that's why.Sorry, buts it's all about get it in,get it out these days, hours and $$$$$$.

Gazza

I have to disagree with your opinion. I have been wrenching for a living for over 40 years and have seldom found your statements true. It's true that when working on flat rate you need to move right along but if it's not right you get to do it for free the second time. Good mechanics learn to go fast and make it right.

I fail to see what this has to do with the leak in Colins drive unit. Its an easy fix and takes about 2 hours if you have the parts in hand.

 
Try This,, To keep the pinion shaft from turning . Refit the wheel, caliper and FD to the bike. Position the pumpkin with the pinion opening to the rear of bike. Have someone press on the rear break and loosen pinion nut.

What do you think ?

 
Top