Lithium Blues

[rocketdoc]

A year ago I replace my second OEM battery with a Lithium battery. Lighter and full of cranking amps, I was very pleased. I also installed a Voltmeter at the same time. Running along at 3,000 rpm plus the volmeter shows12.9-15.1v.

I found it odd that the voltmeter would show lower 12.7-12.8v when the turn signals were on and when the radiator fan came on, it would almost always show 12.1-12.6v . The biggest issue I am having is when I have been touring, into a town looking for a place to eat or stay we traditionally cruise up and down the mainstreet checking out each potential spot. (The three of us take turns picking the place) whether it be a restaurant or a motel, we do the routine. If I turn off my bike when the radiator fan has been running and find the restaurant to be a dump, or moving onto the next motel, it will turn over as if the battery is flat, then on repeated attempts in a few seconds start the bike. However the trip meter and clock reset as if the battery has been disconnected. My riding buddy thinks it is a voltage regulator or a generator/stator problem. I am not that up to speed on electrics and think perhaps he is right, or my battery is just a dud.

So what does the collective FJR mind think about this? Suggestions to diagnose and resolve the issue would be much appreciated.

Want this fixed.

Rocketdoc

 

[supertankerm60a3]

I second the regulator-stator-charging issue. I an running a Shorai Lithium and my voltage is a solid 14.4-14.3, dropping to 14.1 if the grip heaters are on. It will run lower and climb steady if I have done something silly like leaving the igniktion on and killing the battery.

Low battery charge/cranking amps will lead clock\trip odo resets during startup.

 

[Bounce]

Running at near-idle can deplete the battery since the charging system isn't optimal until at higher RPMs. Watch the volt meter and switch to a higher gear to get the RPMs up so that the meter is showing something higher than 12.5v (which is the minimum break even point). 13 and higher is more dependable for keeping the battery up.

Also, hot start issues are often sourced back to corroded/dirty connections somewhere in the starter, battery, alternator circuit. Check both ends of all connections for clean (shiny and coated in dielectric grease).

 

[TomInPA]

The first thing you should do is double check your battery connections. It sounds like the battery has a good charge state and under normal loads you are getting a proper charge from the stator and R/R. When you have surges in power demand, your voltage is dropping off fast to a discharged state. This is usually a loose terminal fitting, poor ground or similar problem. Be careful how many circuits you tie directly to the battery as you can get intermittent power losses.

Diagnostics for a stator are pretty straight-forward if you have a multimeter. You just check for continuity (short) to ground, and for low resistance between the stator legs. The regulator/rectifier can be similarly evaluated, but there are conditions that don't really show up. Let's save the hard stuff until later, after you check the battery terminal connections and connection to ground.