Middle fork bushings

[Northwoods Snowman]

I pulled my forks apart to change the springs on my 2008 and noticed that my lower bushings are shot, again. I have just under 25000 miles and I previously changed them at about 13500. Doing some reading it seems the Gen 1 bikes last a heck of a lot longer than the Gen 2. Has anyone tried to remove the middle bushing on their Gen 2? What were your results? My new bushings should be here Friday and I'm debating if I want to try to leave the middle ones out and see if they last longer. Once again the middle and top look brand new but the bottom is worn through the Teflon.

How are the bushings holding up on the Gen 3 non ES models? Are those also a 3 bushing design?

 

[MCRIDER007]

Has anyone removed the middle bushing? Ah yes.....How did you remove the lower bushing without removing the middle bushing? If you don’t re- install the middle bushing then you have a GEN1 set of forks which I thought were a lot less rigid than the GEN2 forks. If I had to choose between GEN1 forks or GEN2 forks with the Teflon gone on the lower bushing, the GEN2 forks would be my choice.

Ride more, worry less.

 

[BkerChuck]

When a friend and I rebuilt my forks we buggered up the first middle bushing putting the fork back together so in the interest of keeping things even we deleted the middle bushing from the second fork leg as well. I've got 30k + since we did them and they're doing fine. Soon due to go through them again but I wouldn't worry too much about deleting that middle bushing.

 

[Fred W]

At least one of the big suspension shops (can’t recall which one it is right now) only reinstalls 2 bushings when you send them your forks to be reworked. Not sure if that is to reduce friction or improve longevity. In any case, it shows it can be done successfully.

 

[08FJR4ME]

Gen3, 2015

Looking at the parts fische they still have a 3 component system. They don't call them bushings. They call them Metal slides. Not sure what that means.

https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/544549daf870020ad8f5dfb5/front-fork

Dave

 

[mcatrophy]

... They don't call them bushings. They call them Metal slides. Not sure what that means.https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/544549daf870020ad8f5dfb5/front-forkDave

Probaby just semantics, I expect they would refer to a "bush" as a rotating bearing, not a sliding one.

 

[philter]

Just curious, I am due to change the fork oil, and want to check the sliders on my 07 with 40,000 miles. I am intimidated about taking them apart, as so many seem to screw them up either messing up the bolt at the bottom, or reinstalling them. Any encouragement you can give me. I do my own work, Poorly. and have done the tapered roller bearings, and adjusted my valves. {KInd of, messed that up some}. I do have an air compressor.

 

[Gitbox]

At 40k, I'd replace the bushings and seals - the whole rebuild. An air impact on the lower bolt works well.

I did my forks at around 35k and it needed it. I did have to fab some tools for assembly but that was no big deal. Search the FJR forums for the procedure. It really is not that hard.

 

[RossKean]

Maybe I am less sensitive to fork condition than others.

I first did my forks at 60,000 miles or so with the assistance of another member of the forum. The Teflon was visibly worn but I wasn't noticing any problems with the fork operation. I change fork fluid every couple of years and it always comes out looking pretty evil. (Did bushings anyway because seals needed replacing due to a leak that a Sealmate couldn't fix)

Did not notice any major change in operation after doing the bushings and seals (except no more leakage).

Another leak a few years (and 70,000 miles) later and this time I had the forks done at a Yamaha shop. Again, no more leak and no major difference in handling - at least to me.

 

[Auburn]

Just curious, I am due to change the fork oil, and want to check the sliders on my 07 with 40,000 miles. I am intimidated about taking them apart, as so many seem to screw them up either messing up the bolt at the bottom, or reinstalling them. Any encouragement you can give me. I do my own work, Poorly. and have done the tapered roller bearings, and adjusted my valves. {KInd of, messed that up some}. I do have an air compressor.

Good fork discussion here with pictures of the home made tools you will need to do the job. Take your time, use a little heat in the area of the bushings/seals to expand the fork tube and they are easier to pull apart. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you do not have the tools, as you will destroy the cartridge if you try to put back together with an impact gun. You can not get the bottom bolt torqued to 25 Ft-lb without the tools.

 

[Fred W]

A few thoughts on fork maintenance:

Once the Teflon wears off the slides (what we usually call bushings) they dont really wear much further. The missing Teflon layer will make the fit a bit looser, and the slides will have slightly more friction as they are metal to metal. The upper (2) bushings Teflon isnt that important since they slide against the polished inner tube. However, the lower bushing slides against the inner bore of the lower fork leg which is aluminum, with the bushing being made from something harder, Id be worried mostly about wear of that bore if not serviced regularly. But if people have got away with ignoring them for long mileage intervals, I guess that says we dont have to worry so much.

First Gens are a bit easier to service since they only have two bushings, but any of the conventional fork models can be done by any decent home mechanic without too much trouble. If you dont have the long socket tool to hold the top of the cartridge while removing or reinstalling the bottom bolt holding in the cartridge you can make a couple of wedges to jam in from the top to keep the cartridge from spinning inside the upper tube. You can also use a pneumatic impact driver to spin the bolt out. Making a tool would be better if you have the ability or friends that can help. I certainly wouldnt try to torque that bolt up with an impact driver. Thats just asking for trouble. On the other hand I have been able to get it to torque spec sometimes without holding it at all. Clean threads make a difference.

 

[Gitbox]

An air impact on the lower bolt works well.

Just to clear things up, I was referring to loosening the bolt with air impact, not tightening it. As Fred said, it can be torqued without holding the other end if everything is nice and clean.

Like Ross, I rebuilt mine due to a seal leak. I figured while I was in there, I might as well do it all.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

It is possible to reassemble the forks with an impact gun, BUT you have to know how to modulate the impact gun!!!! That's how I've always disassembled and reassembled forks on all my motorcycles. I made the tool for the FJR last night only because I was bored and had the time so I'll use it this time, but I've never stripped the end of a cartridge out or had one fail or come apart.

To get back on topic, has anyone else run their gen II without the middle bushings? Seems the negative may be less rigidity in the forks, but has anyone been able to tell? BkerChuck, have you had your forks apart to inspect the lower bushing since you left the middles out?

 

[900gc]

At least one of the big suspension shops (can’t recall which one it is right now) only reinstalls 2 bushings when you send them your forks to be reworked. Not sure if that is to reduce friction or improve longevity. In any case, it shows it can be done successfully.

Computrack Boston did mine at 14K and did only two bushings and now near 50 K the fork still works/feels perfect. He used to maintain my track bike suspension as well when I used to race.

 

[rwortman]

FYI, this tubing makes a perfect driver for the middle bushing on Gen2 forks. https://https://www.mcmaster.com/1750t31 I used a 1/4 hex 12v impact driver to put the cartridge bolts back in. They probably aren't torqued to 25ft/lb but their not torqued to 100 either. A little blue Loctite so they aren't going to fall out and if they don't leak they will be fine.

 

[RossKean]

Mine were redone by Traxxion without the midfle bushing when AK20s were installed. No issues for me.

Edit: Just noticed that this is an old thread and my reply was to a post from last year. Carry on...

 

[Auburn]

FYI, this tubing makes a perfect driver for the middle bushing on Gen2 forks. https://https://www.mcmaster.com/1750t31 I used a 1/4 hex 12v impact driver to put the cartridge bolts back in. They probably aren't torqued to 25ft/lb but their not torqued to 100 either. A little blue Loctite so they aren't going to fall out and if they don't leak they will be fine.

The issue has more to do with dissimilar metals, you have a steel bolt being torqued into ALU. you may get a way with it once, but doubt you will a second time without stripping the threads. Easy tool to make the hex wrench you need, with a 26mm 6 point socket, a piece of 1/2 tubing, and a small socket adapter. A little time with a welder and you have tool so the bolts can be torqued properly.