PAIR Removal

[Scrib]

Just getting around to posting my PAIR removal nightmare. Man, what a PIA that was for me! First, I had no idea there was a YELLOW thread locker. I have heard of blue, heard of red, but not yellow (googled it and not sure why they used yellow, but they did.) I have never come across bolts that were HARDER to remove the further out they came. DAMN! Of course the back bolt on number 1 not only broke my cut down hex, but then proceeded to strip without budging (in either direction - that thing is in there until this machine is melted down.) I checked the torgue ratings in my service manual and they have those bolts listed at 10 ft.lb with LT, but wow these were impossible (yellow is supposed to break at 28-32, with 50-58 locking - varies by manufacturer I suppose, but seemed so much harder than that.) There was a factory engine tech with forearms the size of Popeye torquein' my motor that day. It took me an hour and half to remove 5 bolts and replace the setup with the Wynpro covers, well 2 of the 3 covers at least. Plugged the first inlet pipe and was happy the whole ordeal was over. Pics to come later once I load them to my site. Hate the PAIR removal - worst farkle I have done to date! Not meant to knock the fine Wynpro covers, which are great, but I had no idea these little bolts would be so hard to remove. :angry2:

Here is the stripped one - sucker.

These look great once on that's for sure

Engine is cleaner - haven't put the clamp on cover 1 plug yet (yes, that is an old flat head 3/8" socket with the driver end cut off in the tube - no there is no hole in the socket end like regular sockets.)

 

[johnny80s]

I did mine in 20 minutes with a 1/4 ratchet. Sorry to hear of your trouble.

 

[Fred W]

same here. Must be just another 2nd gen feature.

BTW - the engine is too damn clean on that last shot. Get out and ride it!!

 

[Patriot]

sorry for the problems but congrats on the accomplishment

my first thought on the yellow LT was it was the high temp kind

 

[dcarver]

My Gen2 was no problem. Of course I had a Gen1 monkey work on it..

 

[Scrib]

Somehow I knew Fred W would chime in with the Gen I comment! Ya, I had read and re-read on this topic for weeks before I got my bike and thought no problem. Ugh, was I wrong.

 

[escapefjrtist]

There are a couple of the allen heads that are more difficult to reach than the others. The key [so to speak] is having a nice sharp end on the hex, and making sure it's sitting all the way in the bolt head. Gentle pressure will break them loose w/o stripping.

My install went fine BTW...

--G

 

[BkrK12]

When you take the cam cover off to do the next clearance check, it'll be much easier to rectify the problem working on the bench. That's how I did mine to start with and it was easy. As a matter of fact, having seen the clearance problems, I'm pretty sure that's the only way I'd try to do it again. Your fix will work fine, in the meantime.

 

[Fred W]

+1 on sharp tools. For some reason tool makers like to round the edges on the tips on their allen sockets. Makes them easier to "find the hole" I guess. I will occasionally grind the tip down flat to get a fresh edge, allow "fuller penetration" and a "better bite".

Come to think of it, I did my Pair removal concurrent with a valve check, so I was able to remove the old hose "nipples" while the valve cover was on the work bench. I'll bet not having a good straight shot at those allen head cap screws is the main reason for the mung-age.

Boy is this post rife with possible innuendo...

 

[JamesK]

Sorry to hear about your problems.

I did my original PAIR removal during a valve check, then about 30k later had to put that crap back on to pass emission inspection in Japan when i shipped the FJR. One of the bolts stripped out like yours, even though I'd only used a little blue LC on it before. Anyway, using one of those easy-out sockets you can buy in Sears, etc got that stripped bolt out with no problems, all while still on the bike.

 

[Scrib]

I cold get it out now I suppose, but would need to remove the tube to do it. Don't want to mess with dropping the coolant level, etc. etc. It will bug me for while, but I will get over it.

 

[TomInPA]

When removing the PAIR and installing wynplates, do you discard (store) the solenoid, or is it required to be reconnected to avoid an error code?

 

[wheatonFJR]

Never mind...I thought this was gonna be a post by Bust's wife...

My bad.

Carry on....

 

[Fred W]

When removing the PAIR and installing wynplates, do you discard (store) the solenoid, or is it required to be reconnected to avoid an error code?

Yeah, you get to box it up or throw it as far as you can (your choice). The ECU doesn't seem to care a whit whether there is a solenoid out there or not.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Never mind...I thought this was gonna be a post by Bust's wife...

My bad.

Carry on....

Wise arse! Her posting would be more like "retrieval of a pair"

Everytime she lets me have them, I end up losing one someplace :blink:

 

[stioc]

Sorry to be a FNG but what does this PAIR removal do? I got all queasy when I read the title :assassin:

 

[TomInPA]

It is the intake air injection system that provides extra filtered air directly to the exhaust valve outlet during cold deceleration and is related to burning off hydrocarbons in the catalyst. It doesn't really do any harm to performance, although it can cause lean popping if you use aftermarket pipes. Mainly, it is a PITA to deal with every time you change spark plugs, do a throttle body sync or check valves. Getting rid of it really cleans up the engine area.

Gone

 

[stioc]

Tom, thanks for the excellent explanation...I may have to look into getting my PAIR removed

 

[HotRodZilla]

So, I keep thinking of doing this and just haven't gotten around to it yet. BUT....I coulda swore I saw somewhere that in order to reach the bolts in the back, I was gonna need a round allen-wrench. Now, you guys are saying to just shorten the arm so an allen-wrench fits in the area, and make sure it's sharp?

Which is it? I'll be an angry bastard if I strip a bolt out and have to jerry rig it to get it fixed.