Power Distribution

[Bounce]

Re:  switched power source.Some of us who have disconnected the "auto-retract" on the windshield use that as a source.  Others tap into the running light wire from the fairing (turn signal/running light).  Those are probably the 2 easiest.

The auto retract connector is a great idea! I just discombobulated that and was going to find some tape to cover it up. With any luck, I can use a pin removal tool to remove the pin from one side of the connector so I can splice the relay wire to the jumper wire and make it look a pro install.

Thanks again!

Cheers,

Jim

I did it this way.

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html and there's also documentation on how to use the Auto-Retract as a source for feeding the energizer side of your relay.

 

[JimV]

I did it this way.

Bounce everyone has great pictures showing everything except one thing that I'd really like to see: How did you route the wires up past the engine?

I went out and got ten feet of the "asphalt" loom and two spools of 12-ga wire (red & black). I was thinking that I could pull the loom down along the left side right along the main wire harness and the brake hardlines. I think that you may be able to route the loom outside the right side of the frame inside the fairing too. Is there some "best practice here?

Also, do you have to zip tie the blocks to the speedo U bracket? I was kind of hoping to drill and tap some holes in the bracket to screw it on.

Cheers,

Jim

 

[broodwich]

GunMD,

What is that you used for your ground terminal block? Where did you get that, the install looks pretty clean. Thanks for posting the image.

 

[Warchild]

I was thinking that I could pull the loom down along the left side right along the main wire harness and the brake hardlines.  I think that you may be able to route the loom outside the right side of the frame inside the fairing too.  Is there some "best practice here?

Yes, there are "best practices" for this.

For those without ABS, the premier wire-harness routing path to carry a circuit to the rear of the bike is alongside the right steering neck. Obviously, if you have an ABS bike, a lot of this opening will unfortunately be taken up by hard brake lines.

Below we see how I have routed the two PHID circuits (encased in the NAPA asphalt loom) down the right side of the steering neck, using the convenient threaded tap (normally used to retain the ABS hard lines) to hold a rubber-insulated lined clamp. The latter is retained by stainless steel socket-head fastener:

For ABS dudes, you may find the left side of the steering neck a more optimal route path. Here I am sending the PHID power source (+ and -) back aft towards the ballasts, again, encased in NAPA asphalt loom (denoted by 'A'). 'B' is a hot wire traveling from the left FIAMM Master Blaster over to the right FIAMM Master Blaster:

 

[Bounce]

I did it this way.

Bounce everyone has great pictures showing everything except one thing that I'd really like to see: How did you route the wires up past the engine?

I went out and got ten feet of the "asphalt" loom and two spools of 12-ga wire (red & black). I was thinking that I could pull the loom down along the left side right along the main wire harness and the brake hardlines. I think that you may be able to route the loom outside the right side of the frame inside the fairing too. Is there some "best practice here?

Also, do you have to zip tie the blocks to the speedo U bracket? I was kind of hoping to drill and tap some holes in the bracket to screw it on.

Cheers,

Jim

Lots of questions. Let's see if I can answer them in no particular order?

1. I wire tied mine. After several high-farkled bikes and reselling them, I like to mod the bike in ways that let me set it back to completely stock at resale time. This helps me part out any mods that don't xfer to a different kind of bike. Leaving them on the bike means you get zipitydodah for them unless someone has your exact same sensibilities wrt mods. Also wire ties don't weaken any cross members like drilling might. It's the same reason I don't use taps to poke though insulation to get to a wire. I may not be a big deal but if it turns out to be, then it will be a very big deal at just the time you don't want to deal with it.

2. I routed my shielded wires along the right side (while sitting on the bike - like in Warchild's first photo) of the engine compartment. In through the large fram opening that Yammy routes stuff and along the right side to the insude of the frame and then out under the back cross member the tank rests on. I felt that there was less clearance on the rights side and any need to mess with the clutch line or other items on that side might compromise anything I ran over there.

3. What I wire tied the PdBs to was to the dash gauge subframe as shown in the photos.

 

[GunMD]

GunMD,
What is that you used for your ground terminal block? Where did you get that, the install looks pretty clean. Thanks for posting the image.

From a friend's garage. I have no idea where the thing is from. Sorry.

 

[madmike2]

Nice grounding plate. Nothing you couldn't manufacture yourself with a piece of aluminum drilled and tapped.

 

[markjenn]

I went with the Electrical Connection Power Plate first mentioned in this thread. Here is their web site:

https://www.electricalconnection.com/power-...tion/pplate.htm

I found a vertical spot on the front fairing subframe up under the C panel - there's a spare bolt up under there which works well. There is more room under the seat, but I preferred not to run so much wiring to the back fo the bike.

I just drilled a hole in the front subframe and used a self-tapping belt for a ground point. No issues.

- Mark