Probable ignition switch or battery failure in traffic today

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zac

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Jul 5, 2006
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Location
Roseville, CA
Well looks like I've got problems now, but at least I'm alive to tell about them! :yahoo:

So while I was cruising down Hwy 80 coming back from San Francisco today the engine died going 80. I immediately started making my way through traffic over three lanes to the shoulder. I can't really remember the order in which I saw these things, but I saw a blank instrument cluster, an instrument cluster cycling with all the lights flashing including the brights and the hazards, and before I can even engage the clutch the engine kicks back in and I'm up and running again. So I stopped for gas at the next exit and everything seemed to be in working order. Started up fine. Drove fine all the way home another 75 miles back to the Sacramento area too. I stopped by the store on the way home, started her back up and didn't even make it out of the parking lot. The same thing happened again, except this time the engine didn't kick back in and the bike wouldn't start back up. After fiddling around trying to get it started with no luck, I pushed the bike home five very long blocks. It's still behaving now like it did in the parking lot which is:

When I turn the key to 'on' the gauges cycle, the fuel gauge starts flashing all bars, the turn signals light up on the instrument panel (not flashing), and the high beam indicator lights up on the panel. The actual headlights, taillights, and turn signals are all off. Pushing the starter button or flipping any switches accomplishes nothing. I'm unable to access the glove compartment which usually unlocks when I turn on the ignition. I'm unable to raise or lower the windshield. But all the gauges are lit up.

So my battery is as old as the bike, an '06. I drive the bike year round so I expect more life out of my battery than someone who parks it in the winter, but it wouldn't surprise me if I needed a new battery by now. I'm hoping that is the problem as it is the easies solution.

I just had my ignition switch replaced on the recall maybe 4 months ago, and there was nothing wrong with it! I probably should have gone with if it ain't broke don't fix it, but it seemed like the thing to do as they were doing the ECM recall at the same time. That ECM recall worked wonders for my bike getting on second coming out of a corner. No more jerky throttle, completely fixed the problem that a power commander hardly phased. I reached down and felt around under the switch where the wires come in and everything was very tight. No slack at all. I couldn't feel or see any evidence of loose wiring though.

Anyway what do you guys think? I guess it's time for a battery anyway so I'll start there and hope for the best.

I don't have the YES warranty, and the shop that did the recall is 70 miles from here (I just moved), so I guess I'll had down to the local Yamaha dealer here in Roseville and see what they can do for me. Hopefully we can work something out up here. I'd rather not tow the bike all the way back to Stockton, and I didn't think much of the service there anyway.

So does this sound like the ignition switch to you guys? What's the best replacement battery? Does anyone have a link for good pricing on the best replacement battery? Thanks. Zac.

 
Doing 80 on 80? Well! That's your problem! That's when worlds colide and your Flux Capacitor self distructs!

FJR-mysteryConn.jpg


Seriously, it sounds a lot like the six pin "grounding gremlin" problem. You are not alone. A number of posts on it, try Google with something like "bike won't start". I believe there is also a poll on this problem.

I think this is becoming a recall problem? several more '06's turning up with it.

Try locating the six pin grounding connector waaaaay up under the front left tupperware. You can access it by removing the tank, heat shield, etc. and, using a flachlight, see it.

Slow here today so here's a start

dcarver's issues

or start Here

One of these posts has some great pictures of it and somebody else posted all the locations of the grounding connectors. IIRC there are at least five

 
QUOTE (zac @ Oct 11 2009, 08:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...

When I turn the key to 'on' the gauges cycle, the fuel gauge starts flashing all bars, the turn signals light up on the instrument panel (not flashing), and the high beam indicator lights up on the panel. The actual headlights, taillights, and turn signals are all off. Pushing the starter button or flipping any switches accomplishes nothing. I'm unable to access the glove compartment which usually unlocks when I turn on the ignition. I'm unable to raise or lower the windshield. But all the gauges are lit up.

...

QUOTE (BwanaDik @ Oct 11 2009, 08:57 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...

Try locating the six pin grounding connector waaaaay up under the front left tupperware. You can access it by removing the tank, heat shield, etc. and, using a flachlight, see it.

dcarver's issues

or start Here

One of these posts has some great pictures of it and somebody else posted all the locations of the grounding connectors. IIRC there are at least five

Doesn't sound like battery, I agree with BwanaDik, sounds like an earth problem. Though why he's posted the picture he has I don't know, that's the air temperature sensor arrowed in his pic
huh.gif
.

FWIW, this (click on image for larger view)



is the earth connector that seems to give some people problems.

Many refer to these as "spiders" (even though they've only got six legs).

I've some more pictures of "spiders", try here and here.

 
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The light display on the gauge panel is the tip off. You have a problem with the grounding spider, under the heatshield, on the left side of the steering head. Once you find the six wire connector with the black cap (six wires into one side, nothing on the other except the cap) you can wiggle it and make the symptoms come and go. If you're lucky, it can be repaired. If not, you're looking at a whole new wiring haness. There are other posts showing pictures.

Oops, not fast enough. See post above.

 
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BkrK12 I'm hoping you've summed it up nicely. I think I'm going to pull the tank off and see if I can make it work with a shorting bar and new heavy duty connectors. Hopefully i'll be able to get some heatshrink on there too. I hope that's the problem. I'm now thinking back to a month ago when I had the headlamps changed to replace a burnt out headlight. The only ones my local repair shop had available were some cheapo 90w blue halogens, which they assured me would be fine. If this is truly the problem, I'm suspecting the brighter bulbs as a likely culprit, along with maybe the heated grips. The stock lamps are 55w. I think now would be a good time to upgrade to HID as well. Thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction gentlemen.

Here's the best thread for me on this one I think:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...113632&st=0

 
And sure enough, if I wiggle those wires under the gas tank on the side, I can get the bike to start. So now I need to figure out what materials I'll be needing. Back to the thread I go.

 
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