Problems mounting handguards.

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FJRGuy

FJR Rally Addict! :D
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OK, I bought the V-Strom handguard 'kit' on some recommendations from threads on the forum. Already had the handguards but the cost for the hardware was essentially the same as the kit. Well, I don't like what I'm seeing in the kit:

HPIM0584.JPG


Can someone explain how I use these parts to mount the guards?

And yes I installed the left guard with the hex pivot bolt with the threaded hole. It's the other stuff that isn't doing anything for me.

Edit: Photo link fixed!

I know a little blurry but it serves the purpose.

 
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I installed that exact hand-guard kit a few weeks ago. I too puzzled over what went where. Eventually I figured it out and I think it all works pretty good. The only painful part is cutting the end of guard where it contacts the end of the handlebars.

The bolt/stud whatever with the threaded section above I used on the right side, inserting it through the brake pivot then sliding the handguard over the threaded section. I used the caphead nut to secure the handguard to the handlebar. I then used the spacer on the bottom threaded end, with a washer and a lock nut.

On the left side, I used the other bolt, inserting it through the handguard and through the clutch pivot. It threads in tight, then I used the other locknut and a washer on the bottom to finish.

Pretty simple to get them on. It's pretty secure and it looks alright if you don't examine it too closely. The parts that are at the pivot points look kinda ugly, like they're for another bike altogether!

Like said, the only painful part was cutting the ends to fit the bar-ends. I used my dremel to make the opening big enough to fit the FJR bar between the stock end weights and the grip. Just check-fit and trim, repeat as necessary.

Once I got my Throttlemeister installed, I had to open up them up much more to fit around the Throttlemeister bars. Again check-fit and trim and repeat.

I have some pics on my website - https://web.mac.com/rocketman_ian/StephensO...Handguards.html

ian

 
Not all the hardware is used Jeff. If you notice on the top of the studs the boss is drilled to mount some other shit on to it. I just used some of the extra screws/bolts 'n stuff to finish it off. They don't actually DO anything.

 
OK, I bought the V-Strom handguard 'kit' on some recommendations from threads on the forum. Already had the handguards but the cost for the hardware was essentially the same as the kit. Well, I don't like what I'm seeing in the kit:
HPIM0584.JPG


Can someone explain how I use these parts to mount the guards?

And yes I installed the left guard with the hex pivot bolt with the threaded hole. It's the other stuff that isn't doing anything for me.

Edit: Photo link fixed!

I know a little blurry but it serves the purpose.
If you have a friend with a machine shop, see this pic to see what I used for my installation. The pic is in post #4.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=709334

 
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It has been a few years since I installed mine and I don't remember exactly what went where. I do remember having a little trouble deciding what to use. I also found the shoulder on one of those bolts too long to have the handguards look symetrical, so I ground down the shoulder for a little bit, maybe 1/4 inch, and used a die to thread it where I ground it down.

 
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I wonder if you're having the same problem I had when I posted this. It looked wrong, because the two sides (brake and clutch levers) are different on the bike, and the hardware should have been different, but wasn't.

I got some pretty complicated suggestions, but ended up just mounting the guards with the hardware supplied and it worked fine. Thing was I had to bend the right one (IIRC) more than I felt comfortable doing to get it to spread wide enough to go over the bolt on that side. Once I did that, though, it went on fine and wasn't damaged. I recently removed the guards for the warm weather and it was totally simple. Took a Phillips screwdriver and about ONE minute total--no exaggeration. I just took the screw off the top of each guard, removed it, and put the screw back into the tapped bolt, setting up an equally easy re-installation next fall. No grinding or tapping, and very little swearing at all was necessary.

 
I should have just bought the same pivot bolts I borrowed off my '03 DL1000. :dribble:

The only painful part is cutting the end of guard where it contacts the end of the handlebars.
A step drill makes this operation dead simple! :D

The bolt/stud whatever with the threaded section above I used on the right side, inserting it through the brake pivot then sliding the handguard over the threaded section. I used the caphead nut to secure the handguard to the handlebar. I then used the spacer on the bottom threaded end, with a washer and a lock nut.
Is your brake lever 'loose' on the pivot bolt? The diameter of the pivot area of that bolt is only 6mm and it should be 8mm!

Not all the hardware is used Jeff. If you notice on the top of the studs the boss is drilled to mount some other shit on to it. I just used some of the extra screws/bolts 'n stuff to finish it off. They don't actually DO anything.
:blink: Isn't that where you secure the handguards? :blink:

If you have a friend with a machine shop, see this pic to see what I used for my installation. The pic is in post #4.
I have a drawing of such a part that I made when I first installed the guards using my V-Strom hardware. I was intending on having some made then put the originals back on the V-Strom. Never got around to it and then figured that the kit might be easier... bad idea! :dribble:

Too bad I don't have your friends! :p

 
If you buy a set of bar end weights for a Suzuki DRZ 400 S(dual sport) ,the handguards will snap right onto them. As for the pivot bolt that is smaller diameter ,I found a metal valve stem tube from one of my brothers semi's in the parts drawer,and made a sleeve out of a little length of it. It fit over the bolt and right up in the lever hole.(thin wall tubing) I wouldn't thinkthat things would feel very good with all the slop in the pivot without a sleeve to get the tolerance a little closer.

 
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