Relay trigger power
- Thread starter Unleaded
- Start date
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hppants
Well-known member
I don't want to get off topic here.
Will start my own farkling thread.
Tx.
Will start my own farkling thread.
Tx.
Lowcountry Joe
Well-known member
I've found that Positaps are the absolute best way to successfully tap into a control line for relay voltage without damaging the source line. They come in several sizes and can also be used to directly power a device IF the source has enough extra current capacity. Readily available on Ebay.
https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
I just installed the Eastern Beaver PC8 on my 2015 ES. I ordered his pre-made cabling with 30A relay and +6" on the positive cable (60" is the length I ordered I think). I searched for awhile looking for a good tap spot for switched power. Embarrassingly, I spent most of my time just looking for the best spot to get switched power.
I saw the blue wire easily accessible to the rear but I would have to extend the relay wire back. I was about to take the dash plastic off when I decided to see how easy it was to reach a good spot at the right front running light. Turns out that removing the small black plastic cover inside the front wheel area to access the right running/turn signal LED is easy and there is a small, short independent wire from a connector to the light that could be easily posi-tapped. I felt better about not tapping a major wire in the harness. I considered fuse taps as well and that followed by just running a long blue wire back to the left side under the seat were my next choices. The method in this thread for making the Y connection without cutting or tapping is the way to go. But tapping the running light worked easily. I would have made a connector to Y-tap in this location but just wanted to finish. I mounted the relay in the space under Panel A by the battery, ran the wire loom along and under the right side of the tank, and mounted the PC8 under the rider seat. I was surprised at how well this kit worked. I did not have to cut a single wire in the kit as the lengths were all perfect for the way I mounted it. For now, battery tender SAE on one unswitched circuit for charging, and two switched circuits used for heated gear. I am happy with the way it turned out and happy with the quality of the parts I received from EB in Japan.
I saw the blue wire easily accessible to the rear but I would have to extend the relay wire back. I was about to take the dash plastic off when I decided to see how easy it was to reach a good spot at the right front running light. Turns out that removing the small black plastic cover inside the front wheel area to access the right running/turn signal LED is easy and there is a small, short independent wire from a connector to the light that could be easily posi-tapped. I felt better about not tapping a major wire in the harness. I considered fuse taps as well and that followed by just running a long blue wire back to the left side under the seat were my next choices. The method in this thread for making the Y connection without cutting or tapping is the way to go. But tapping the running light worked easily. I would have made a connector to Y-tap in this location but just wanted to finish. I mounted the relay in the space under Panel A by the battery, ran the wire loom along and under the right side of the tank, and mounted the PC8 under the rider seat. I was surprised at how well this kit worked. I did not have to cut a single wire in the kit as the lengths were all perfect for the way I mounted it. For now, battery tender SAE on one unswitched circuit for charging, and two switched circuits used for heated gear. I am happy with the way it turned out and happy with the quality of the parts I received from EB in Japan.
Joel S.
Well-known member
hey guys, getting ready to do a few things, first i need to get my gps wired to switched power, thinking the cig lighter, could make some clean splices there, not sure if harness side or glovebox side would be better, splices would be military style,
the next thing, on a 16, how do i gain access to the tail light wiring harness ?? where the connector would be located ??
i have a https://www.vizi-tec.com/supabrake-2/ specificaly designed with oe connectors to be blug and play, just need to know where to look.
I have a fellow member offer help as well, so thats great. still waiting on my service manual, first fjr has only been with me 10 days, lol. i am a 25 year master mechanic, and my c14 had more tupperware than grandma's cupboard,
thanks for any help , much appreciated.
the next thing, on a 16, how do i gain access to the tail light wiring harness ?? where the connector would be located ??
i have a https://www.vizi-tec.com/supabrake-2/ specificaly designed with oe connectors to be blug and play, just need to know where to look.
I have a fellow member offer help as well, so thats great. still waiting on my service manual, first fjr has only been with me 10 days, lol. i am a 25 year master mechanic, and my c14 had more tupperware than grandma's cupboard,
thanks for any help , much appreciated.
AlleyCat
Well-known member
And that is one of the reasons I love my PDM60.... you can set a delay to your liking (mine is the default 7 seconds). I power the GPS, aux lights (Clearwater Darlas) and my heated gear through the PDM60. No more fuses to replace.
