RZ350’s Gen II Mods, Part 2 - Quick Disconnect GPS Mount System

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RZ350

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2007
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Location
Florida
Link to all my Gen II mods

Although there are a number of waterproof GPS units out there, I decided to go the route of using a standard auto unit protected from the elements by a waterproof case. With less than $200 spent on GPS receiver, I figured I would be more likely to upgrade it sooner since very little money was invested now. Normally when I shell out a bunch of cash on something, I tend to use it until it dies, even if it is severely outdated. In the following pictures, you will see the Base Mounting Pod and AquaBox (with GPS inside) installed on the bike. There is also an after-market clock/voltmeter/thermometer mounted on top of the Base Pod.

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As with a lot of my accessories, I also can use this same AquaBox setup on my Triumph Tiger:

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MAIN GOALS

My ultimate goals for the bike electronics included GPS navigation, FRS bike-to-bike communications, MP3 player, and cell phone. I’m not a very trusting person so I also wanted to be able to remove the electronics from the bike quickly anytime I stopped longer than just a gas fill-up. I already have an FRS system from Moto-Comm for each of my helmets (currently 3) that allow auxiliary input, so I didn’t really want to invest in another system such as AutoCom or StarCom to integrate everything. The helmet systems are the wired type and it would be nice to go to wireless someday, but for now I will have to make the best of it.

THE PURCHASED PARTS

I chose to buy a Nuvi 780 because my wife had one and it accomplished the last three items on my wish list (nav, MP3, and Bluetooth to cell phone). Since Garmin discontinued them recently, I found a second one at a very reasonable price. The Nuvi 780 comes with a nice docking cradle that includes connections for the wiring. I wouldn’t trust it to keep the GPS attached to the bike by itself, but inside the RAM AquaBox, it works great and allows me to remove it quickly from the AquaBox for installing in the car. The AquaBox is a model RAMHOLAQ6, which fits the Nuvi nicely and has ample room for my additional custom wiring.

AND THE CUSTOM PARTS

It seems like I never can find 100% of the parts that I need to complete a project so I have to make a few of them. My main goal here was to come up with quick disconnect method for not only mounting the GPS, but connecting it’s wiring as well. Required wiring connections included 2 wires for power and ground, 3 wires for audio output, and 2 wires for microphone input. The other connection that might be needed someday is for an external antenna, but I doubt it’s needed on a motorcycle. I have several bikes that I want to use this GPS on so I think it was worth the effort to make a “modular” system but would consider this even if I only had one.

After an extensive search, I found some military connectors (Type MIL-DTL-26482) that were strong enough to actually mount the GPS while also allowing the connections to be made simultaneously. Rather than mounting the GPS (via RAM ball mounts or similar), adjusting it to the correct viewing angle, and then hooking up all the connections, it is done in one simple step. The bayonet style military connector attaches with a 1/4 turn of the collar and “pulls” the two halves together to make the wiring connections. There is a positive click when it is fully engaged. The connector I’m using has 41 possible connector pins (way overkill), but I chose it because of its housing size (Shell Size 20) and because the local surplus store had used ones for $2/each (they sell for $60 new, wow!). There’s nothing wrong with having a little room for expansion :). The base connect pod fabrication time probably accounts for a majority of this project. The housing is a project box from Radio Shack (p/n 270-1805) and it matches the Aquabox nicely. Inside I used some aluminum MX hand guard clamps (Moose p/n M6002-11) along with a shaft collar to mount the connector securely to handlebars. I also added a large grommet (Pep Boys-Motormite-HELP) p/n 42305) to the collar of the connector to make it easier to turn with gloved hands. Here is the base connector mounted on two of my bikes:

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The Tiger mounting was done a bit different with a cast aluminum electrical housing I found at Lowes, some 7/8” split bar clamps, and a custom fabricated plate. Sorry, it’s a little hard to see with its fresh coat of black paint.

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The connector has 5 keyways to keep it aligned. The connector half with the pins is mounted to the back of the AquaBox, while the receiving half mounted to the various bikes has the sockets. For safety, you always want the 12V supply coming through recessed sockets so there is less chance of a short circuit when disconnected. After the initial adjustment of the base connector for viewing angle, it ends up in the same position every time you install the GPS. Earlier with the RAM ball mounting, I found myself having to play with the adjustment every time I reinstalled the GPS on the bike. Here are some shots of connector halves:

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I also had to make an aluminum adapter plate (unpainted square plate in pictures) to allow mounting of the military connector directly through the AquaBox to the Garmin cradle. I also needed to attach the supplied Garmin cradle to this same aluminum plate and RAM adapter p/n RAMHOLGA22 worked perfectly. The way I did it, the AquaBox is merely sandwiched between the mounts and really doesn’t see any load, besides the weight of itself.

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THE WIRING

The project included wiring inside the AquaBox, and wiring each of the bikes with the matching base connector. Inside the Box, I needed to run from the GPS cradle to the military connector. For safety and convenience, I also added a low amp fuse inside. Power for the GPS comes from the glove box auxiliary power port circuit. You need to remove a panel to get to the OEM fuse so I added a 2A fuse to protect the GPS wiring and it’s a little easier to get to. In the pictures, you will see I’m still using the 1/8” headphone connector directly into the GPS unit (bypassing the cradle), but this will change shortly when I do some soldering inside the cradle for audio.

Physical mounting of the base connector on each bike ended up being a little different but the wiring was the same, power, audio, and mic. Even though I tapped into an FJR circuit that is only on when the ignition is on, I still I added a lighted switch in the power line so I could switch it off when desired.

HOW IT ALL WORKS

I tested the functionally of the Nuvi 780 with my wife’s GPS before buying mine (she actually let me do it!). One concern I originally had was that you can’t get to the power slide switch without opening the AquaBox. Luckily the Nuvi senses external power and turns on automatically. It also senses when external power is lost and turns off automatically. Perfect - I will never need to touch the power switch. The other thing that was a must was the ability to switch between music player and maps easily and independently adjust volume for each. The Nuvi does all that - great job Garmin! I’m sure there are other GPS’s that do this as well.

Removing and installing the AquaBox from the bike is a pure joy, if you respect a sturdy industrial feel. I have a cap that covers the bike connector when not in use. It all looks a bit big and bulky (mostly because of the AquaBox), but everything is made from aluminum or plastic so the weight is relatively low. The AquaBox clear membrane doesn’t inhibit the Nuvi touch-screen in any way. As delivered, the membrane is a bit wavy, but I found if you position the GPS in the Aquabox so that it stretches it slightly when the lid it closed, it straightens out nicely. I foresee needing a sunvisor in the bright sun, but that probably is needed on any M/C GPS (that’s the next project and parts are purchased).

My MP3 music is stored on a 16GB memory card. The ball mount of the OEM Garmin cradle allows the GPS to swivel enough for easy access to the SD slot, yet the GPS is held flat by the touch screen membrane when the lid of the AquaBox is closed.

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Nice job and write-up. Interesting idea to mount the GPS with the MIL-Spec connector inside the AquaBox.

--G

 
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Interesting, Can U do audio out of the Nuvi via hardware AND mic in?
Yes, the Nuvi 780 has a separate mono phone jack in the base of the OEM cradle for an external MIC (Thanks Garmin!). Garmin offers a remote mic to mount close to your head in the car. In my AquaBox, I have a mono plug running directly from the MIL connector to cradle jack. I plan to tap this into my helmet system eventually. For audio out on the Nuvi 780, you have two choices for external speakers, the stereo jack on the left side of the unit, or through pins 10,11,12 on the OEM docking cradle. Mic-in and Audio-out are meant to work simultaneously. The scenario would be talking on your cell phone in the car (via GPS bluetooth) using the remote mic and piping the audio through your car speakers.

There's one piece to the puzzle that I'm missing yet before I run audio-out directly through the cradle, and that's how to turn off the internal speaker. When you plug a normal set of headphones in the Nuvi side jack, it automatically turns off the internal speaker and directs sound through the jack (this is typical for any audio device). There are other accessories Garmin offers for the 7XX series that route audio through the cradle only, but I haven't figured out how they are triggering this function through only cradle pins. Might have to acquire one of these other devices to study it, but I was hoping internet searches would show me the light. For now, it's not that hard to unplug the headphone jack when I take the Nuvi out of the Box and mount it in my truck.

Anyone have any ideas to solve my puzzle?

 
Awesome job! I may have to look at this for my HK GPS that I've just been putting away in wet weather. Now if only I can find $60 connectors for $2! :rolleyes:

Thanks for sharing! :)

 
I'm a little late with a reply on this, but:

What if you put a dummy plug in the hdph output, thus causing the output thru the mount? It may only be necessary to insert an 1/8" diameter piece of plastic, rather than an actual jack.

Pepperell

 
Now if only I can find $60 connectors for $2! :rolleyes: Thanks for sharing! :)
Problem solved...plenty of military on this forum who probably have a "friend" in supply or a spare cannon plug or two lying around the work center. ;)

Excellent idea RZ350..will have to check the shop tomorrow for a throw-away. :ninja:

 
Now if only I can find $60 connectors for $2! :rolleyes: Thanks for sharing! :)
Problem solved...plenty of military on this forum who probably have a "friend" in supply or a spare cannon plug or two lying around the work center. ;)

Excellent idea RZ350..will have to check the shop tomorrow for a throw-away. :ninja:
Although the screw collar type will work, try to find the bayonet style collar (as I show) - you will be much happier with the ease of installation and removal.

Good luck in your search!

 
Now if only I can find $60 connectors for $2! :rolleyes: Thanks for sharing! :)
Problem solved...plenty of military on this forum who probably have a "friend" in supply or a spare cannon plug or two lying around the work center. ;)

Excellent idea RZ350..will have to check the shop tomorrow for a throw-away. :ninja:
Although the screw collar type will work, try to find the bayonet style collar (as I show) - you will be much happier with the ease of installation and removal.

Good luck in your search!
Had the bayonet locker in mind...shouldn't be to hard to find. We keep a healthy assortment on hand...considered "consumables." Have been considering this type of clean set up for awhile but keep changing my mind on set-up so haven't decided on connector size. Although I won't be copying your design exaclty, I'm glad the forum members here are glad to pass on their "intellectual property" in a very open source kinda way. Thanks

 
Now if only I can find $60 connectors for $2! :rolleyes: Thanks for sharing! :)
Problem solved...plenty of military on this forum who probably have a "friend" in supply or a spare cannon plug or two lying around the work center. ;)

Excellent idea RZ350..will have to check the shop tomorrow for a throw-away. :ninja:
Although the screw collar type will work, try to find the bayonet style collar (as I show) - you will be much happier with the ease of installation and removal.

Good luck in your search!
Had the bayonet locker in mind...shouldn't be to hard to find. We keep a healthy assortment on hand...considered "consumables." Have been considering this type of clean set up for awhile but keep changing my mind on set-up so haven't decided on connector size. Although I won't be copying your design exaclty, I'm glad the forum members here are glad to pass on their "intellectual property" in a very open source kinda way. Thanks
Once a patent application is filed, you can share it with anyone you choose. :lol:

 
I'm a little late with a reply on this, but:
What if you put a dummy plug in the hdph output, thus causing the output thru the mount? It may only be necessary to insert an 1/8" diameter piece of plastic, rather than an actual jack.

Pepperell
Thanks Pepperell.

The folks are currently solving this in two ways. The first being just as you describe with a "dummy plug" in the audio jack. The other is by activating the FM modulator, which turns off the sound to the jack (edit: ... and sends sound through the cradle). I still prefer to avoid any of these steps all together.

 
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Now if only I can find $60 connectors for $2! :rolleyes: Thanks for sharing! :)
Problem solved...plenty of military on this forum who probably have a "friend" in supply or a spare cannon plug or two lying around the work center. ;)

Excellent idea RZ350..will have to check the shop tomorrow for a throw-away. :ninja:
Although the screw collar type will work, try to find the bayonet style collar (as I show) - you will be much happier with the ease of installation and removal.

Good luck in your search!
Had the bayonet locker in mind...shouldn't be to hard to find. We keep a healthy assortment on hand...considered "consumables." Have been considering this type of clean set up for awhile but keep changing my mind on set-up so haven't decided on connector size. Although I won't be copying your design exaclty, I'm glad the forum members here are glad to pass on their "intellectual property" in a very open source kinda way. Thanks
Well - did you find a spare connector lying around?

I’m happy to see people using these ideas and I encourage them to reply to my threads with how they “morphed” the idea into something even better. You won’t offend me and I consider food for thought on the next project (whatever that is!). We will all benefit if we share info and ideas - that’s what these forums are all about. I’ve taking so much info from the internet, I don’t mind giving back.

And remember - Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. :D

 
Well - did you find a spare connector lying around?

I’m happy to see people using these ideas and I encourage them to reply to my threads with how they “morphed” the idea into something even better. You won’t offend me and I consider food for thought on the next project (whatever that is!). We will all benefit if we share info and ideas - that’s what these forums are all about. I’ve taking so much info from the internet, I don’t mind giving back.

And remember - Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. :D

Interesting preflight yesterday, spent the whole time fixing things that should've been caught on on the prior inspection. In other words, no. But it's not like they're going to get used up to fast. Will have plenty of time before tonight's flight to swing by the shop. I'll let you know what I come up with. I'm a big fan of using the internet as my own personal R&D team. It's great seeing the many different ways creative people end up "skinning the cat."

 
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FYI to anyone using these MIL-SPEC connectors...

With my 41-pin connector, I installed pins only in the positions I needed (7 contacts in my case) so it would take less force to pull the halves together, thus making it easier to turn the lock collar. A small amount of grease/oil in the collar helps it turn too (aluminum-against-aluminum = high friction if not lubed). Don't bother putting dielectric grease on the pins though - those nice gold contacts don't need any, and I heard they perform better without any since they are less likely to attract dirt.

I also spread my 7 pins out somewhat evenly in the 41 pattern to balance it so it pulls in evenly. The 3 bayonet pins will force an even pull-in, but basically one pin will be doing all the work if the contacts are not spread out. It also makes it a bit easier to work on if they're not all clustered together.

 
I just read about someone "cracking the code" for automatic re-direct of audio output from the 1/8" Nuvi jack through the 3 connections on the cradle mount whenever the GPS is docked. Supposedly, it a simple matter of connecting Pin 7 (ID) to Pin 8 or 9 (the main grounds) via a 2.2K resistor in the 18 pin connector. The low voltage signal fools the GPS into thinking there is an external device attached and switches the audio output. When I have a free moment, I will give it a try.

If it works, I plan to add a switch in this resistor "jumper" so I can choose between piping the music to my helmet, or if I'm parked and just hanging out, have the music output through the built-in GPS speaker. The AquaBox lid needs to be flipped open to hear any audio from the GPS unit anyway, so I will just mount the switch somewhere inside there. I know the built-in speaker doesn't sound that great, but it would be better than nothing. It might also be nice to hear general GPS audio when programming routes and such, with the helmet off.

More to come...

 
Hey RZ, any more progress on this?

I have a Nuvi 760 with a broken audio jack, and unfortunately it's broken in such a way that the internal speaker is permanently disabled, so I'm curious about the concept of piping the audio through the cradle.

From your posts above, I see that the stereo audio is on pins 10,11, and 12, but I'm not sure which is Left, Right, and Ground. I also see that pins 7 and 8 are the main grounds, and that connecting pin 7 to one or both of the grounds through a 2.2K Ohm resistor will trick the GPS into piping all of its audio out through the cradle. Do I have that right so far?

Now the big question. I'm fairly sure my 760's cradle is the same as the one for your 780, but I see no practical way to solder wires in order to get the audio. Did you disassemble the cradle itself or did you disassemble the cable (plug) that plugs into the cradle? The wires in the cable appear to be about 30 gauge (about the thickness of a human hair!) so how in the heck did you do any soldering? :)

What I'd like to end up with is a single cable assembly that plugs into the cradle, with the 12V cigar lighter connector on one pigtail and a 1/8" audio plug on a second pigtail. Do you know if Garmin sells anything like that? I didn't find such a beast, which is why I'm looking into what you've done here...

Thanks for the detailed write-up!

 
Hey RZ, any more progress on this?

I have a Nuvi 760 with a broken audio jack, and unfortunately it's broken in such a way that the internal speaker is permanently disabled, so I'm curious about the concept of piping the audio through the cradle.

From your posts above, I see that the stereo audio is on pins 10,11, and 12, but I'm not sure which is Left, Right, and Ground. I also see that pins 7 and 8 are the main grounds, and that connecting pin 7 to one or both of the grounds through a 2.2K Ohm resistor will trick the GPS into piping all of its audio out through the cradle. Do I have that right so far?

Now the big question. I'm fairly sure my 760's cradle is the same as the one for your 780, but I see no practical way to solder wires in order to get the audio. Did you disassemble the cradle itself or did you disassemble the cable (plug) that plugs into the cradle? The wires in the cable appear to be about 30 gauge (about the thickness of a human hair!) so how in the heck did you do any soldering? :)

What I'd like to end up with is a single cable assembly that plugs into the cradle, with the 12V cigar lighter connector on one pigtail and a 1/8" audio plug on a second pigtail. Do you know if Garmin sells anything like that? I didn't find such a beast, which is why I'm looking into what you've done here...

Thanks for the detailed write-up!
dbx,

No, I have not made the upgrades yet. I was planning to do it before the ride to NAFO but ran out of time. On the trip, I found that I never removed the NUVI from the AquaBox so the audio cable plugging directly into the 1/8" jack was a non-issue. I think I will still give it a try sometime just for fun.

Piping the audio out through the cradle may be a great solution for you, considering the busted jack. Keep in mind there could be other things internal to the Nuvi that will keep the audio from working, depending on the extent of the damage. You have it in front of you so you will need to make the call, if its worth the effort.

I suspect the 760 is exactly the same as mine since some of the reference material I found (NUVI PINOUT LINK) dealt with various models within the 7XX series, and nothing lead me to believe they were different.

This list (extracted from my large spreadsheet) should give you the pinout info you requested. When I mention "Spring Pins", I'm refering to the 25 pin interface from the cradle to the Nuvi.

Cradle Socket (18-pin connector)

1-Main Power +12V

2-Main Power +12V

3-To Pin 5 of Spring Pins

4-To Pin 7 of Spring Pins

5-To Pin 6 of Spring Pins

6-To Pin 3 of Spring Pins

7-To Pin 4 of Spring Pins

8-Main Ground

9-Main Ground

10-Audio Out (Right)

11-Audio Out (Left)

12-Audio Out (Ground)

13-Microphone

14-Microphone

15-Not Connected

16-Not Connected

17-To Pin 15 of Spring Pins

18-To Pin 16 of Spring Pins

I noticed an error in your post - it was probably just a typo. Please note pins 8&9 are the main grounds, not 7&8 as you stated. Pin 7 is the ID pin that gets grounded via the resistor if you want to tell the Nuvi to direct audio to the cradle pins 10,11,12.

I purchased a second hardwire cable from ebay to attempt the soldering job. I think its feasible with the my smallest soldering iron and a good magnifying glass (and some luck!). I also have a spare cradle, but I leave that one in the truck and don't really want to mess with it. A "butchered" 18-pin cable is okay for me because it will be inside the AquaBox with very little movement (pull) on it, so a somewhat fragile and non-waterproof cable will be acceptable. Cradles are more costly than the hardwire cable so that is another of my reasons to go that route.

People have soldered inside the cradle (see page 8 or so in the pinout link above) and one method I recall didn't require a high level of precision for soldering on the circuit board. This may be a good option for you. If you can't find it in the thread, let me know and I will look again and get you the exact post# where the guy is describing how he did it.

Garmin sells interface cable p/n 010-10865-00 to work with the 7XX series, and BMW sells kit p/n 65-90-0-445-990 for hardwire installation of the 760 (specifically) in their cars. I have most of the pinout information on those as well, but I don't think either will do what you want, in terms of cables. I will try to post an image of my spreadsheet showing all this info shortly for you and others to take a look at.

Lastly, I intend to give a ride report on the Nuvi/Aquabox setup shortly. I was able to set up a BT link between the Nuvi and my cell phone. This allowed telephone calls with my helmet headset/mic and also MP3 and GPS turn info audio with proper priority. It had a few glitches (mostly operator errors!) but its definitely a workable solution for the next year or two.

 
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