Hi everyone, new owner here. My first FJR, 2009 gen 2, NA version, 60,000 kms. Not my only bike, (4 others) bought for 2 up as my new lady wanted to ride. Rode a pals gen 1 and I was hooked. I did the barbarian fix to allow CO access, it worked but I found all cylinders at 0 which surprised me. In a roll on with the gen1 I got soundly smoked, any suggestions here? Also, when I attempted to check TB sync with vac gauge, I found #4 (right end?) screw bottomed, no adjustment left. They're pretty close in sync so not a big issue, but still ... I need to check valve lash (no history) but plug boot on 4 was so stuck I tore it trying to remove. I found a replacement but I'm terrified of the others now. Yamaha wants $125 each, yikes! Any suggestions here are most welcome. I'm not new at this wrenching stuff, millwright and machinist for 40yrs, just saying to eliminate the lack of experience scenario. Sweet bike, thanks for reading guys.
Throttle body sync
- Thread starter Bub
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
RossKean
Well-known member
If the TBS is close, don't worry about it. Try working your way around the plug boot separating it from the valve cover. Don't try to just pull it off. I always put a little silicone grease on the rubber where it contacts the metel. Never any issues since. Do the TBS (and plugs and coolant) after the valve check. Good chance you won't need adjustments at 60,00If one screw is bottomed out, start by closing all to lightly seated and open each to half or three quarters of a turn. Usually a good starting point. Of course, make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Note: If screws are all open too far or not enough, you may be able to balance but won't be able to adjust idle speed to the ideal warm idle speed at 1100 rpm or so.
If the wire pulls out of the boot. You can trim the end of the wire and screw it back on. If I wrecked a boot or wire. I would probably try to get a set of coils, wires and boots (used) on ebay. Usually available a lot cheaper than new.
If the wire pulls out of the boot. You can trim the end of the wire and screw it back on. If I wrecked a boot or wire. I would probably try to get a set of coils, wires and boots (used) on ebay. Usually available a lot cheaper than new.
Update. I did the valve check, all easily within spec. The other plug boots came off nicely. Removed the AIS and changed coolant. The CCT seems fine so I didn't change it. ($250 from Yamaha). Throttle bodies synced up nicely. Did total removal of rear suspension for lube service. Found scuffing damage to the long pin in relay arm so replaced it and bearings. Added zert to front relay bearing so can be lubed without removing center stand. Removed swingarm for check and lube, all good. U-joint has no play. Videos showing spline lube never address the front spline from the transmission. U-joint must be removed to grease that. It can come out with swingarm in place if you hold your mouth right.
Many thanks for the tips, much appreciated. Cheers.
Many thanks for the tips, much appreciated. Cheers.
Front spline has no motion in it, under operating conditions. It only needs anti-seize on it so that it can be disassembled. The rear drive-shaft spline is inside the rear hub assembly, and is spring loaded pushing the shaft forward. Any lateral motion of the shaft is taken up in the rear spline, which is bathed in gear lube. It’s this design that makes the Yamaha shaft drive so bullet-proof compared to certain others.
Pjotr
Member
What gear lube do you use for rear spline?
RossKean
Well-known member
Some maintain that a high molybdenum grease is needed for drive splines and U-joint. I have never used anything other than a good synthetic waterproof bearing grease. Far less messy than the black moly crap and have not seen any evidence of wear. (Has anyone ever seen drive spline failure in an FJR?)
For the rear drive "pumpkin" fluid, I have always used a synthetic gear lube such as Mobil1 75W-90 instead of the expensive Yamalube stuff.
Pjotr
Member
Some maintain that a high molybdenum grease is needed for drive splines and U-joint. I have never used anything other than a good synthetic waterproof bearing grease. Far less messy than the black moly crap and have not seen any evidence of wear. (Has anyone ever seen drive spline failure in an FJR?)
For the rear drive "pumpkin" fluid, I have always used a synthetic gear lube such as Mobil1 75W-90 instead of the expensive Yamalube stuff.
Rosskean, thank you. There are extensive discussions on what to use, but have not seen a short and clear answer. I’ve to do it soon.Some maintain that a high molybdenum grease is needed for drive splines and U-joint. I have never used anything other than a good synthetic waterproof bearing grease. Far less messy than the black moly crap and have not seen any evidence of wear. (Has anyone ever seen drive spline failure in an FJR?)
For the rear drive "pumpkin" fluid, I have always used a synthetic gear lube such as Mobil1 75W-90 instead of the expensive Yamalube stuff.
