Throttle Body Synch…

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Joined
Jan 27, 2024
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Location
Ann Arbor, MI
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22,409 Miles
Performed the synch maintenance and I don’t think it was necessary and I’m not sure it did anything.
Warmed up bike, performed the synch. Manual indicates no vacuum delta greater than 10mmHg, this synch is in spec.
Watch the popular YouTube video on this and I think that made it look more complicated than reality, for me this was a very easy job.
Guys I ride with swear by this service, so I borrowed the synch tool and did it. It’s a good experience, just think it’s oversold as necessary, really don’t know?
Was this worth doing? Did it do anything? Perhaps if there were more miles the delta between cylinders would be greater and it would be more necessary.
Thoughts?
 
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22,409 Miles
Performed the synch maintenance and I don’t think it was necessary and I’m not sure it did anything.
Warmed up bike, performed the synch. Manual indicates no vacuum delta greater than 10mmHg, this synch is in spec.
Watch the popular YouTube video on this and I think that made it look more complicated than reality, for me this was a very easy job.
Guys I ride with swear by this service, so I borrowed the synch tool and did it. It’s a good experience, just think it’s oversold as necessary, really don’t know?
Was this worth doing? Did it do anything? Perhaps if there were more miles the delta between cylinders would be greater and it would be more necessary.
Thoughts?
The only time I do a throttle body sync is after I have done a major service like a valve adjustment. The amount yours is off would not have a material effect on running. Still, it is good to check at least occasionally. Gen I bikes seemed to go off more than later ones.
 
Hi guys. Bought FJR1300A 2011 after quite a long stay. Got issues with it's operation and seems like finally have found a problem - completely stack idle valves - couldn't make them move even by pressing with a screwdriver. I believe to clean them up I need to remove the TBs. So the question is - to remove them, should I drain coolant as per the Manual? I believe that hoses from the wax motor can be just plugged after disassembling? Thank you in advance.WhatsApp Image 2024-03-23 at 11.07.58_ebaf1bd2.jpgWhatsApp Image 2024-03-21 at 18.08.47_ae3283e5.jpg
 
Hi guys. Bought FJR1300A 2011 after quite a long stay. Got issues with it's operation and seems like finally have found a problem - completely stack idle valves - couldn't make them move even by pressing with a screwdriver. I believe to clean them up I need to remove the TBs. So the question is - to remove them, should I drain coolant as per the Manual? I believe that hoses from the wax motor can be just plugged after disassembling? Thank you in advance.View attachment 6686View attachment 6685
Not a common problem. What are your symptoms? Any active or stored fault codes?
 
No any fault codes. The main problem - the spark are black and wet (especially cyl 1 and 4) - the one that I can see has stack idle valves. Starts perfectly, after warm revs doesn't drop down for at least 20 minutes. Fuel burns in the exhaust pipes so the mufflers became yellow after a short ride. In my opinion al these symptoms would be there if idle valves are stack what was confirmed. Also the last trip I lost one cylinder and had to come back with 3 only. After inspection - spark plugs were found like this:( With a lot of soot on them.
 
If you are getting evidence of very different behavior between 1,4 and 2,3 have a good look at your coils. There are two coils that energize ignition - one for each of these cylinder pairs. Might be a bad coil or even a bad wire or plug cap (cylinders are in series with a "wasted spark" system). Sometimes it will help to unscrew the plug cap from the wire, trim 1/4" from the end and screw the cap back onto the wire. There is VERY little wire to spare so don't trim much!! (The "spike" in the plug cap that makes contact is sort of a thick needle with a spiral cut into it so it is screwed rather than pulled or pushed) Coils with wires and plug caps attached can often be found for cheap on eBay.
Not saying that it isn't the wax motor - just that it isn't a common issue.
An article on the "Fast idle" circuit from a long time ago. Gen I bike but should mostly apply...

https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/further-details-on-fast-idle-system.122016/
 
I stuck a couple of pencil in those little water hoses as I had just done a coolant change when I removed the TB's.
 
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