Trouble Bleeding Clutch Fluid (AE)

[wyowanderer]

Has anyone else had trouble bleeding out the old clutch fluid on their AE? I hooked up my mity-vac to the bleed nipple and got very little fluid out of the system. The level in the reservoir didn't change much either. In the process I am now pretty certain I have introduced air into the system and don't think I have emptied out all the old stuff. Not sure what would be preventing the flow???? What is the capacity of the system as well?

Also, I have been getting the dreaded SH 26 error code very frequently. Have 12,000 miles on bike now. Thinking I should have purchased the extended warranty when I bought the bike this past January! Dang. I am bumming about that after reading some horror threads on this site. Not sure if this is related to not being able to get clutch fluid out.

Thanks for any and all help.

 

[mcatrophy]

I've not experienced bleeding the clutch, but have seen the SH__26 briefly after a clutch soak, but not related.

Where I can perhaps help a little is that one of the possible causes of the SH__26 fault code is clutch fluid issues. The manual says:

As a suggestion for fixing:

Which strongly suggests a fluid issue.

It might help cycling the ignition which will attempt to operate the clutch (brake on), that will at least exercise the system. That also helps when you do finally get it flowing properly to get air out, where the manual asks you to remove the rear suspension to operate the actuator manually.

You might get some help from this thread.

Good luck.

 

[wyowanderer]

I've not experienced bleeding the clutch, but have seen the SH__26 briefly after a clutch soak, but not related.
Where I can perhaps help a little is that one of the possible causes of the SH__26 fault code is clutch fluid issues. The manual says:

As a suggestion for fixing:

Which strongly suggests a fluid issue.

It might help cycling the ignition which will attempt to operate the clutch (brake on), that will at least exercise the system. That also helps when you do finally get it flowing properly to get air out, where the manual asks you to remove the rear suspension to operate the actuator manually.

You might get some help from this thread.

Good luck.

Thanks Mcatrophy for your quick and detailed reply. I forgot to mention in first post that I did cycle ignition and disassembled slave cylinder to manually pump out fluid but to no avail also. Seems to be some sort of blockage. I did notice that their was some "goop" in the slave cylinder upon initial dis-assembly. It was causing the cylinder to hang up somewhat, but after cleaning up the cylinder it appears to be working better. Wonder if this "goop" is clogging something else in the system? Thanks for the link on the similar thread. Don't know how I missed that in my hours of searching this site. Sounds like this fella pulled the line going into slave cylinder and was able to drain out the fluid that way. I have already been there, although I had the reservoir cap off when I tried it. I will attempt it again when I get home tonight. I am hoping something works in my favor on my next go at it.

 

[wyowanderer]

Thinking I may need to get to clutch master cylinder to see if problem of not being able to bleed lines lies in there. It appears the master cylinder is back in near swing-arm? Don't have a service manual yet, but has anyone tackled this job on an AE? Do I have to remove swing arm to get to master cylinder? I hate to take my bike to a mechanic but I might have to. I would imagine the nearest "qualified " mechanic to me may be in Idaho Falls (150 miles away). Any suggestions there? I don't have a warranty on my bike so a decent independent mechanic may be better in this case? Darn it!

Also, bike is stalling out when put in gear now. I am getting an SH 51 code now as well. Not cool.

 

[jmgrif]

Sorry I don't have the AE but hang in for help here! I'm sure someone has read about your problem and will be along shortly? I have been on this forum for about 5 years and assistance is not far away!

Mark

 

[HJHFJR]

Shift code 51 - Shift actuator sensor signal is abnormal. Shift rod is not in neutral position when shift actuator is not operating.

If you shifted gears with air in the clutch hydraulics, the shift mechanism may not return to the neutral position due to the clutch not fully disengaging. You can manually realign the shift are on the shift actuator by removing the cover and aligning the hole on the shift arm with the hole on the shift actuator using a 5mm drill bit.

Where you getting the Shift code 26 prior to your attempts of bleeding the clutch hydraulics or did the shift code 26 appear after you attempted to bled the clutch hydraulics? I would not attempt to fool with the clutch master cylinder until all other avenues have been explored. To access the clutch master cylinder you have to remove the swing arm.

 

[Makuna]

Has anyone else had trouble bleeding out the old clutch fluid on their AE? I hooked up my mity-vac to the bleed nipple and got very little fluid out of the system. The level in the reservoir didn't change much either. In the process I am now pretty certain I have introduced air into the system and don't think I have emptied out all the old stuff. Not sure what would be preventing the flow???? What is the capacity of the system as well?
Also, I have been getting the dreaded SH 26 error code very frequently. Have 12,000 miles on bike now. Thinking I should have purchased the extended warranty when I bought the bike this past January! Dang. I am bumming about that after reading some horror threads on this site. Not sure if this is related to not being able to get clutch fluid out.

Thanks for any and all help.

I bleed/replaced fluid last winter. I had no problems with fluid flow, though it did seem awfully dirty.

 

[wyowanderer]

Shift code 51 - Shift actuator sensor signal is abnormal. Shift rod is not in neutral position when shift actuator is not operating.
If you shifted gears with air in the clutch hydraulics, the shift mechanism may not return to the neutral position due to the clutch not fully disengaging. You can manually realign the shift are on the shift actuator by removing the cover and aligning the hole on the shift arm with the hole on the shift actuator using a 5mm drill bit.

Where you getting the Shift code 26 prior to your attempts of bleeding the clutch hydraulics or did the shift code 26 appear after you attempted to bled the clutch hydraulics? I would not attempt to fool with the clutch master cylinder until all other avenues have been explored. To access the clutch master cylinder you have to remove the swing arm.

Unfortunately I was getting shift code 26 before I attempted the bleed. I just got back from a 2600 mile ride and the code was popping up more frequently and shifting was getting harder as I neared home. When I tried bleeding system I only got a couple ounces of fluid out and the level in reservoir never changed, so I am assuming I pulled fluid from master cylinder to slave cylinder only. I am guessing master cylinder isnt moving freely maybe and is the root of my problem. Guess I better get ahold if service manual. Thanks for your help

 

[Donal]

Shift code 51 - Shift actuator sensor signal is abnormal. Shift rod is not in neutral position when shift actuator is not operating.

If you shifted gears with air in the clutch hydraulics, the shift mechanism may not return to the neutral position due to the clutch not fully disengaging. You can manually realign the shift are on the shift actuator by removing the cover and aligning the hole on the shift arm with the hole on the shift actuator using a 5mm drill bit.

Where you getting the Shift code 26 prior to your attempts of bleeding the clutch hydraulics or did the shift code 26 appear after you attempted to bled the clutch hydraulics? I would not attempt to fool with the clutch master cylinder until all other avenues have been explored. To access the clutch master cylinder you have to remove the swing arm.

Unfortunately I was getting shift code 26 before I attempted the bleed. I just got back from a 2600 mile ride and the code was popping up more frequently and shifting was getting harder as I neared home. When I tried bleeding system I only got a couple ounces of fluid out and the level in reservoir never changed, so I am assuming I pulled fluid from master cylinder to slave cylinder only. I am guessing master cylinder isnt moving freely maybe and is the root of my problem. Guess I better get ahold if service manual. Thanks for your help

Is this the first time the clutch hydraulic system has been bled? Even on the manual clutches the fluid gets kind of gungy very quickly, far worse than either the front or rear brakes. Once you get it moving make it a habit to flush/refill every year.

 

[wyowanderer]

Shift code 51 - Shift actuator sensor signal is abnormal. Shift rod is not in neutral position when shift actuator is not operating.

If you shifted gears with air in the clutch hydraulics, the shift mechanism may not return to the neutral position due to the clutch not fully disengaging. You can manually realign the shift are on the shift actuator by removing the cover and aligning the hole on the shift arm with the hole on the shift actuator using a 5mm drill bit.

Where you getting the Shift code 26 prior to your attempts of bleeding the clutch hydraulics or did the shift code 26 appear after you attempted to bled the clutch hydraulics? I would not attempt to fool with the clutch master cylinder until all other avenues have been explored. To access the clutch master cylinder you have to remove the swing arm.

Unfortunately I was getting shift code 26 before I attempted the bleed. I just got back from a 2600 mile ride and the code was popping up more frequently and shifting was getting harder as I neared home. When I tried bleeding system I only got a couple ounces of fluid out and the level in reservoir never changed, so I am assuming I pulled fluid from master cylinder to slave cylinder only. I am guessing master cylinder isnt moving freely maybe and is the root of my problem. Guess I better get ahold if service manual. Thanks for your help

Is this the first time the clutch hydraulic system has been bled? Even on the manual clutches the fluid gets kind of gungy very quickly, far worse than either the front or rear brakes. Once you get it moving make it a habit to flush/refill every year.

I would say yes, probably first time. I just picked up bike this year, but am assuming no one bled system before.

 

[wyowanderer]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=127850

Ran across the above thread. A member comments that in order to bleed the clutch on an AE you have to access the master cylinder which involves dropping the swing-arm. He claims there is a special shaft on the master cylinder that allows you to bleed system? I ordered a service manual today, so when it comes in I guess I will find out what it entails. Can someone with an AE and a service manual comment on the validity of this? I called one of my nearer Yamaha dealers today (150 miles away) to inquire about getting my bike in and he said he was too busy and didn't show any interest on trying to help me. Wow. I did ALL my wrenching on my previous bike (02 Connie), so I guess I need to buck up and give this a try. The ole Connie just didn't have all the bells and whistles this one does, especially the YCCS!

 

[HJHFJR]

What the link states is true. The procedure in the FSM basically states the following;

1. Remove - Air filter case, Rear Wheel, and Swingarm
2. Turn the main switch on and check that transmission is in neutral
3. Connect a Mityvac brake bleeding tool tightly to the bleed screw
4. Loosen the bleed screw
5. Suck out the fluid into the mityvac reservoir using the hand held vacuum pump
6. tighten the bleed screw
7. Disengage the clutch by turning the manual clutch operation bolt clockwise until it stops
8. Loosen the bleed screw and then retighten it
9. Engage the clutch by turning the manual clutch operation bolt counter clockwise until it stops
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until all of the air bubbles have disappeared from the clutch fluid in the clear plastic hose
11. Tighten the bled screw to 4.3 ft-lbs
12. Manually engage and disengage the clutch 30 times using the clutch operation bolt
13. Then the FSM goes through a procedure of checking the pressure plate stroke to ensure it is within specification of greater than 0.11 inch
14. If out of specification, the FSM assumes there is still air the hydraulic system and states to repeat steps 8 thru 10
15. If everything is to specifications, install swingarm, wheel, and and airfilter case

There has not been a well documented method that I could find on how to bleed the clutch hydraulics on an AE other than what is in the FSM. Most have been successful by using a minivac tool system, but it is not always 100% successful. The key to bleeding the system is to ensure that no air bubbles are introduced into the system on an AE as other problems begin to raise their ugly head.

This link has other methods of bleeding the clutch. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=146106

Hope the above helps

 

[wyowanderer]

What the link states is true. The procedure in the FSM basically states the following;

1. Remove - Air filter case, Rear Wheel, and Swingarm
   
2. Turn the main switch on and check that transmission is in neutral
   
3. Connect a Mityvac brake bleeding tool tightly to the bleed screw
   
4. Loosen the bleed screw
   
5. Suck out the fluid into the mityvac reservoir using the hand held vacuum pump
   
6. tighten the bleed screw
   
7. Disengage the clutch by turning the manual clutch operation bolt clockwise until it stops
   
8. Loosen the bleed screw and then retighten it
   
9. Engage the clutch by turning the manual clutch operation bolt counter clockwise until it stops
   
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until all of the air bubbles have disappeared from the clutch fluid in the clear plastic hose
    
11. Tighten the bled screw to 4.3 ft-lbs
    
12. Manually engage and disengage the clutch 30 times using the clutch operation bolt
    
13. Then the FSM goes through a procedure of checking the pressure plate stroke to ensure it is within specification of greater than 0.11 inch
    
14. If out of specification, the FSM assumes there is still air the hydraulic system and states to repeat steps 8 thru 10
    
15. If everything is to specifications, install swingarm, wheel, and and airfilter case
    

There has not been a well documented method that I could find on how to bleed the clutch hydraulics on an AE other than what is in the FSM. Most have been successful by using a minivac tool system, but it is not always 100% successful. The key to bleeding the system is to ensure that no air bubbles are introduced into the system on an AE as other problems begin to raise their ugly head.

This link has other methods of bleeding the clutch. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=146106

Hope the above helps

Thanks HJHFJR! That is the information I was looking for! Once I get shop manual I will tackle this "little task". I am really hoping a complete bleed and cleaning up the components in the master cylinder will take care of my SH 26 error code popping up as well. Thanks again...much appreciated.

 

[NitroMan]

I just flushed my clutch and brake fluids last weekend. Took about 30 minutes with a MightyVac. For the clutch, I bled keeping the reservoir full until all the old fluid was out, which was pretty dirty. I then cycled between first and neutral a few times and re-bled. Clutch shifts a lot smoother now. Amazing how dirty it got in a year. If you don't have fluid coming out with a MightyVac it sounds like you may have a blockage of some sort. Maybe putting reverse pressure through the system might work?

 

[wyowanderer]

What the link states is true. The procedure in the FSM basically states the following;

1. Remove - Air filter case, Rear Wheel, and Swingarm
   
2. Turn the main switch on and check that transmission is in neutral
   
3. Connect a Mityvac brake bleeding tool tightly to the bleed screw
   
4. Loosen the bleed screw
   
5. Suck out the fluid into the mityvac reservoir using the hand held vacuum pump
   
6. tighten the bleed screw
   
7. Disengage the clutch by turning the manual clutch operation bolt clockwise until it stops
   
8. Loosen the bleed screw and then retighten it
   
9. Engage the clutch by turning the manual clutch operation bolt counter clockwise until it stops
   
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until all of the air bubbles have disappeared from the clutch fluid in the clear plastic hose
    
11. Tighten the bled screw to 4.3 ft-lbs
    
12. Manually engage and disengage the clutch 30 times using the clutch operation bolt
    
13. Then the FSM goes through a procedure of checking the pressure plate stroke to ensure it is within specification of greater than 0.11 inch
    
14. If out of specification, the FSM assumes there is still air the hydraulic system and states to repeat steps 8 thru 10
    
15. If everything is to specifications, install swingarm, wheel, and and airfilter case
    

There has not been a well documented method that I could find on how to bleed the clutch hydraulics on an AE other than what is in the FSM. Most have been successful by using a minivac tool system, but it is not always 100% successful. The key to bleeding the system is to ensure that no air bubbles are introduced into the system on an AE as other problems begin to raise their ugly head.

This link has other methods of bleeding the clutch. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=146106

Hope the above helps

Question...I am going to have to remove swing-arm to access the clutch master cylinder. Am I going to have to also remove centerstand? Gosh, I sure hope not as I don't have a bike lift.

 

[HJHFJR]

According to the FSM it states that the shock absorber assembly is to be removed and then the swing arm. In the shock absorber removal process it states to remove the center stand. The FSM is not always correct in what needs to be removed in order to service items and sometimes states to remove more than is necessary.