hi thanks for your replyI am not close to my manual but the head bolts on the FJR are one time use. Once they are removed they are to be replaced with new. The torque spec is based on the strech of the bolt. That is why they give you a initial setting then the amount of rotation to achieve max stretch on the bolt.
Yes, this is the way that 'stretch to fit bolts work'. In modern engines clamping force is an exact science.hi thanks for your replyI am not close to my manual but the head bolts on the FJR are one time use. Once they are removed they are to be replaced with new. The torque spec is based on the strech of the bolt. That is why they give you a initial setting then the amount of rotation to achieve max stretch on the bolt.
new bolts have been bought
so i start with 25nu then do i have to turn the bolt 180 degrees from that point???????
thanks for that just wanted to make sure as it states in the hand book that if you pass the 180 degrees that the bolt should be removed and a new one fittedYes, this is the way that 'stretch to fit bolts work'. In modern engines clamping force is an exact science.hi thanks for your replyI am not close to my manual but the head bolts on the FJR are one time use. Once they are removed they are to be replaced with new. The torque spec is based on the strech of the bolt. That is why they give you a initial setting then the amount of rotation to achieve max stretch on the bolt.
new bolts have been bought
so i start with 25nu then do i have to turn the bolt 180 degrees from that point???????
I was just going to post a correction to what I wrote earlier, the bolts are correctly called Torque to Yield bolts like Inewlf says. All bolts should be torqued dry unless specifically stated otherwise. Lubrication on threads can cause a range of 25% to over 40% torque increase.They are called torque to yeild bolts and unlike old type head bolts should never be retorqued..I believe both bolts and head should be dry.
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