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twowheelnut

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ok Then????Thank you all for that.

So who else makes a 20W40 oil and will a 20w 50 actually void my warranty?

Tim
I've never seen 20W 40 beyond the Yamaha Chemical shelf at local dealers and trust me, I've looked (never Googled, though. Note to self...) I doubt very much that using 20W 50 would affect warranty claims given the diverse number of concoctions and brews that these rummies use. ;) I am convinced though, that syn oils and PCIII's are responsible for the infamous and dreaded tick. I had proof, but a black Suburban pulled up to the house one day and...

 
They can't make you use their oil filters, or their oil. Good luck finding some 20W40 that they don't sell.

My owners manual also says "Recommended engine oil grade: API service SE, SF, SG type or higher"

Those service types might have been back before the addition of friction modifiers. Friction modifiers bad for wet clutch. It doesn't say anything about that that I saw in the manual.

Like I said, I use a 15W40 w/some extra ZDP thrown in for good measure (and to bring a gallon up by .25 quarts).

 
They can't make you use their oil filters, or their oil. Good luck finding some 20W40 that they don't sell.
My owners manual also says "Recommended engine oil grade: API service SE, SF, SG type or higher"

Those service types might have been back before the addition of friction modifiers. Friction modifiers bad for wet clutch. It doesn't say anything about that that I saw in the manual.

Like I said, I use a 15W40 w/some extra ZDP thrown in for good measure (and to bring a gallon up by .25 quarts).
Where are you getting the ZDP, and is that really the extra .25 quart we don't get in a gallon of expensive oil? Given the high cost of that synthetic Honda oil I put in my bikes, and since I'm going to be removing the cats with the new 4-2-1, that may be the way to go with each of my bikes.

 
Where are you getting the ZDP, and is that really the extra .25 quart we don't get in a gallon of expensive oil?
Go to GM parts online and search for part # 1052367

8 ounces of that (probably overkill anyway) and a gallon of Costco Delo 400 every 4000, with filter, under $20.00

 
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I run 20 -50 in the fjr 20- 50 in my coccours dirt bike and all the bike that I have owned.

I am running 290-50 syn. now in my fjr may go back to dino

shifting is smoother

I think Castrol is making either 15- 40 or a 10-40 i syn.

No it will not cancel warranty it is equal at the very least IMHOP it is better.

When I changer from the orignal Yamaha oil after first service to castrol my engine gat a lot quieter.

I think there is better oils that yama lube . good luck weekend rider

Tip When I go on a trip for extended miles I use Synthic for the extended mileage so you do not have to do a servie while traveling. :D weekend rider

 
There actually are a couple of 20w40's out there, Spectro makes one, but good luck finding one on the shelf. I did call Yamaha on this and put it specifically to them concerning my YES warranty. "Will using a quality brand of 10W40 void my warranty?" The answer was "No it will not." The individual stated what the concern was about was more along the lines of not changing oil at regular intervals, allowing the oil to be at too low of a level for extended periods, and running peanut oil or other weird stuff.

I currently run a relatively new Mobil 1 product that is 10w40 full synthetic with absolutely no friction modifiers. Pennzoil also makes 10W40 non-synthetic and bottles it in a car bottle and a bike bottle. Same oil different price, again I asked Pennzoil and that's what they told me. Then there is the Rotella, Delvac, diesel stuff too. All of it is good stuff and will not void the warranty. Although the subject of many oil threads, IMO the only real differences between all of these is price and personal preference.

 
While the U.S. Yammies call for 20w40, did we not at one time have a European member post an oil chart from his respective FJR manual that listed various approved viscosities and corresponding temperature ratings? Or was this a dream?

Stef. Paging Mr. Stef.

 
ok Then????Thank you all for that.

So who else makes a 20W40 oil and will a 20w 50 actually void my warranty?

Tim
I've never seen 20W 40 beyond the Yamaha Chemical shelf at local dealers and trust me, I've looked (never Googled, though. Note to self...) I doubt very much that using 20W 50 would affect warranty claims given the diverse number of concoctions and brews that these rummies use. ;) I am convinced though, that syn oils and PCIII's are responsible for the infamous and dreaded tick. I had proof, but a black Suburban pulled up to the house one day and...
TWN:

Tim will appreciate you restarting his thread. I believe he is out on a ride for the next several days. It will be good for him to return and see his question is still being looked at for "OIL".

You are a gentleman and a scholar. :rolleyes:

 
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TWN:You are a gentleman and a scholar. :rolleyes:
BWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!

Oh, that was rich! You're killin' me!

 
...did we not at one time have a European member post an oil chart from his respective FJR manual that listed various approved viscosities and corresponding temperature ratings? Or was this a dream?
Stef. Paging Mr. Stef.
Yessir, Mr Scab did you call for me? :rolleyes: and, no, that was not a dream... that's exactly what the European Workshop Manual says..

ManualImmagine.JPG


No Yammy motor oil is recommended here in Yurrup. Your warranty won't expire nor will you go blind if you use another oil.

On several boards there's a recurring dumb debate, however, on the mysterious snake oil Mama Yama wants you to use in the final drive. But I digress...

Stef

 
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... that's exactly what the European Workshop Manual says..
Good stuff, Stef. My shop manual doesn't have any info I could find like that. It just adds that the 20W40 is recommended for temps above 5C/40F. So I'm thinking my 15W40 is actually more appropriate, since my operating temps go lower than that, more like 30F from time to time in the winter.

 
... that's exactly what the European Workshop Manual says..
Good stuff, Stef. My shop manual doesn't have any info I could find like that. It just adds that the 20W40 is recommended for temps above 5C/40F. So I'm thinking my 15W40 is actually more appropriate, since my operating temps go lower than that, more like 30F from time to time in the winter.
Yep, TC that sounds about right.

10038241.JPG


I use a Castrol RS4 10W60 part-synthetic oil I got a smokin' deal on in Germany (I drove back with several gallons of it in my trunk) and top it up with a half pint of STP magic oil additive as da Radman once recommended.

Er..Scab...when the time comes to open that oil can will you promise me you'll let somebody else do it. :p :p :p

Stef

 
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But, but, I just got a new chainsaw!
All right, then :rolleyes:

But make sure you invite Quentin Tarantino over to your place and tell him to bring some cameras and lights
chainsaw.gif


Stef

 
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WOW!

As was mentioned. I "left" for moonshine this morning after changing my oil filter to the pure one. and my oil to the castrol GTX 20w-50 (cause I decided what the hell)

I rode close to 70 miles starting at 42 degrees and steadily dropping to around 34 where as the Sun came up. I looked into my rearview mirror with A slight head duck to peak at my wife. The sunlight was shining off of her BLUE face. Beautiful but, I couldn't feel my feet already. 460 miles to go and I was riding in the non SNOW part of my journey. I stopped. Called the motel and now am at home typing on a forum.... Lame I know but doing internet search now for a short trip. Sunday and monday should be warm so I should be saddle bound for two days with my Honey like I intended.

Thanks for the OIL responses.

Happy riding

Timalan

 
Keep in mind that there is quite a bit of "tolerance" in oil viscosity measurements and a bit of actual overlap between the different viscosity grades. Point is: take enough samples of 15W40 and measure it for viscosity at 0 degrees F and some of the samples will measure in the range acceptable for 20W. Similarily, measure a bunch of 20W oils at 0 F and some of them will be in the range of acceptability for 15W. I cannot imagine any real performance difference in the oil between a 15W- and a 20W- that anyone would attempt to void a warranty for. The only difference that might be measured is cold cranking speed if you were routinely starting your FJR after parking outside at night at 0 degrees F.... Just my opinion.

 
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