Spiegler - Missing Banjo Bolts?

So I finally get around to installing my Spiegler brake and clutch lines and. of course, I don't count the banjo bolts before starting. Now as I'm almost done, I notice that I'm short three banjo bolts. I've got all the washers and whatnot.

This leads me to wonder: Was I supposed to reuse the factory bolts on the ABS unit or am I just SOL? :angry:

BTW - I may have remarked on this before but you guys must be gifted mechanics to enjoy doing this stuff. Getting the factory clutch line off was just about as far away from Nirvana as one can get. Oh, and the fittings connecting the front brake hardline to the flex line are the anti-joy, if there is such a thing. I thought for sure I was going to mess up one of those.

Anyhoo, please let me know about the banjo bolts.

Meanwhile, I'll go back to the HID install...

Thanks,

Jim

One other person reported being short a BB or two back right after the group buy. Contact them and let them know. They shipped his missing ones to him. Give them a total count (normal and double) and if you have ABS or not. They'll do the math.

This leads me to wonder:  Was I supposed to reuse the factory bolts on the ABS unit or am I just SOL?

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For the ABS version of the kit, you were indeed supposed to re-use the factory banjo bolts just on the ABS module only, as seen below... the "exposed" banjo bolts (calipers, master cylinder, etc) were suppose to be the new anodized ones.

You can see how the OEM banjo bolts are re-used on the ABS module here (though note you are to use new aluminum washers that should be in your Spiegler kit):

Getting the factory clutch line off was just about as far away from Nirvana as one can get.  Oh, and the fittings connecting the front brake hardline to the flex line are the anti-joy, if there is such a thing.

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The clutch line R/R job is no fun, concur with you there. The ABS hard lines at the steering neck can be a complete ass-pain as well, especially if you don't use a proper "line-wrench" to remove the fitting.

Aha! So I was supposed to reuse the ABS unit bolts. I guess Rick Conn chose to do a bit more complete upgrade because the pictures in his Brake Line Installation Guide show the new shiny Spiegler bolts instead of the factory ones.

I guess I'm a little skittish over bolts ever since someone told me that I could reuse the factory bolts to attach my ABM rotors but they'd look like ass.

Thanks much for the quick responses. :drinks:

BTW - What's this fancy line-wrench of which you speak?

Cheers,

Jim

What's this fancy line-wrench of which you speak?

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I guess Rick Conn chose to do a bit more complete upgrade because the pictures in his Brake Line Installation Guide show the new shiny Spiegler bolts instead of the factory ones.

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The photo WC posted was my first photo during the R&D work and the photo in the article was the upgraded version.

BTW - What's this fancy line-wrench of which you speak?

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That would be a flairnut wrench. Looks like a box end wrench with a slot cut out, to slip over the line. It keeps from rounding off the flairnut heads, like a 2 sided open-end does. :cigar:

I was short 5(?) bolts in my initial package... Gary got me hooked up once I let him know... now I just need to get the biatches installed.

Well, that settles it, I'm a major :asshat: . Why couldn't I have learned what the right tool for the job was BEFORE doing this and f*#king up one of the nuts just like you said. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why someone would torque a little bitty 10mm nut so tight.

Well, its all back together now. Hopefully I won't need to disconnect that nut anytime soon. :blush2:

I'll be picking up a set of line wrenches (aka flare nut wrenches, aka split box wrenches) tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Jim

I guess I'm a little skittish over bolts ever since someone told me that I could reuse the factory bolts to attach my ABM rotors but they'd look like ass.

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Ok, here comes a thread-jacking:

What bolts should I order from Tastynuts to replace my stockers for mounting the ABM rotors? I had to replace mine at the time of install but just ordered stock bolts at the time. And you're right, they DO look like ass.

Wow, I just posted this same question. Tasty Nuts says: front disc bolts M6x20mm & the rear M8X25mm, they do not say what pitch. Tasty Nuts (under fjr) show a set of 10 for the front. Should be a set of 12. Also under fjr they show sprocket nuts., so if they don't know it's a shaft drive or how many bolts on the front, I don't know if they got the sizes correct.

Here's the TasyNuts # that I used with the my ABM rotors:

TI12DISCR1R6(Reference #1712)

I ended up going with the natural color. I tried the 'gold' color but did not

like the color with my '04. Sold those and then picked up another set in the

natural color.

Regards,

Gary

okay, you used a set of (12) Yamaha R1 / R6 Disc Bolts - TI12DISCR1R6 M6 x 20mm length shouldered bolts for the fronts, did you do the rear rotor?

Yep, 6 per side. No I did not do the rear rotor. Had a bitch of a time getting

the old ones out. I also cleaned out the threads in the wheel of all the old

thread lock before putting in the new ones. Was a job but turned out nice.

Gary

OK, just to rescue this thread from the highjackers, I have the brakes all bled and reconnected and everything looks fine, except one thing: The bleed screws on the front calipers screw different amounts.

Are the bleed screws for the front calipers different from each other? The bag that I got from Gary just said "SB8125L Front & Clutch" I have to admit that I didn't pay much attention when I took them out. I suppose that's a fault I'll need to remedy.

Thanks,

Jim

Are the bleed screws for the front calipers different from each other?

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I didn't get the Speedbleeders, but I seem to recall from the original Spiegler threads that yes, they are different.

I have a 2004 FJR w/ABS. Used (2) SB 8125L for left front & clutch slave (1) SB7100 for rear, (1) SB8125LL right front

First off, in my own defense, I didn't notice the difference because I got 3 of the SB8125L. Here is what I've found just to document this issue on this board:

Posted by: MCML Jul 25 2005, 02:03 PM

Sparky, I actually found my old notes (burried on my desk) and they show that the front left and clutch are 8mm x 1.2, 1.28. The front right is 8mm x 1.25, 150. The rear is 7mm x 1.0, 138. So, if those notes are right, then there are three different bleeders for the four locations with the front port side and clutch being the two that are the same and, I am guessing, the smaller of the two others going to the rear. I am going to take the notes downstairs and see if the thread sizes and lengths match my notes.

This is for the ABS model only -

Model Year Position Part Number OEM Retail Stainless Retail

FJR 1300 ABS 04 - Front caliper 1x SB8125L $7.00 $15.00 <- Left

FJR 1300 ABS 04 - Rear caliper SB7100 $7.00 $15.00

FJR 1300 ABS 04 - Clutch slave cylinder SB8125L $7.00 $15.00

FJR 1300 ABS 04 - Front caliper 1x SB8125LL $7.00 $15.00 <- Right

Cheers,

Jim

WC - Thanks for the quick response.

Pending - Thanks, you must have been posting while I was cutting and pasting.

For the record, Gary is overnighting me the correct Speedbleeder (SB8125LL) for my front caliper. I really appreciate a guy who goes out of his way to make things right when they make a mistake.

Gary McCoy ([email protected]) at University Motors is a great source for parts.

Cheers,

Jim

jim v, did you make a new bracket for where the hard lines connect to the new lines in the front?The instructions call for a new homemade bracket there.Did the speed bleeders work as advertised?I've still got to tackle this project soon.