Trailer Build - hopefully in improvement to my current one

[Auburn]

I'm not sure why you'd want to, but you could take the Bushtec along with you someplace. Inside the new one!

Since it'll be done sometime in the fall, I guess you'll call it a 2017 model. What color will it be?

Probably be black

 

[Auburn]

A quick update, I didn't get to work on the trailer much this last weekend. I did make one modification after some thought. I shortened the front section of the trailer by 6 inches - so the trailer is now the same size as the bushtec with the ice chest area included.

I have put the floor in it - 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood is bolted in with screws that are tapped into the frame. Galvanized the bottom steel before putting the plywood in. The other piece of plywood is removable and where the ice chest will sit on top of to separate it from sitting on the tools under it.

Need to build the lid and hinge system, then I can put the sheet metal on.

I am looking for someone here in the PNW who has a metal brake at least 30" wide. Preferably one that I could borrow to use here.

Rear shot

 

[Hudson]

Hopefully something to see for tech day!

 

[audiowize]

I'll go look at my brake, it is either 24" or 36" wide, can't remember off the top of my head.

 

[Auburn]

I'll go look at my brake, it is either 24" or 36" wide, can't remember off the top of my head.

I picked one up at Harbor Freight. Cheap one but should do the job for what I need.

 

[Fred W]

You're way too far into this build now to use this idea, but I could foresee it being very useful to be able to slide the axle forward and backward to get proper balance and tongue weight with varying loads.

Also there is a good reason for cambering the wheels inward like the bushtec as most of the weight will be on the outside wheel in turns as the g force shifts laterally.

Final thought is that the front looks like it is going to be flat and will cause a lot of drag. If you put some sort of a rounded nose cone on the front and tapered the back it would tow better at speed.

 

[paramonkreel]

Are you going to brace the draw bar at all? Feels a bit odd to me to have that long of an unsupported rod in charge of all of that mass, I just imagine it torquing in a hard stop. The mech e in me wants some triangle brace on it.

 

[Auburn]

Are you going to brace the draw bar at all? Feels a bit odd to me to have that long of an unsupported rod in charge of all of that mass, I just imagine it torquing in a hard stop. The mech e in me wants some triangle brace on it.

No it doesn't need it. It is 1-1/8" DOM 120 wall thickness tubing. It is plenty strong. It is also welded to the frame via the plate made and a similar one at the back of the tubing which is attached to the support bar the axles pivot off of. That is more support than the bushtec has, which is the same tube, with flat plates welded to it and then bolted to the bottom of the fiberglass tub.

 

[Auburn]

Got a chance last night to start doing some of the sheet metal. This is my first time ever bending sheet metal using a sheet metal brake. The metal is starting from a 4' 8' sheet of 20 gage rolled steel. I figured I would start with the inner protection from the wheel wells. I The piece is all one piece except for the small piece that I had to add beacuse of the interference from the floor and tubing to get it sealed up from the elements. I will be sealing the inside of the seams with silicon after the sheet metal is in place. I have another piece to add around the shock, and the top of the wheel well. I was surprised how strong (not flimsy) the metal is.

Also learned I need to allow a little more length for the shrinkage caused by internal 90 degree bend. I was about an 1/8" short of where I wanted, but not enough to have to remake the piece.

 

[Auburn]

You're way too far into this build now to use this idea, but I could foresee it being very useful to be able to slide the axle forward and backward to get proper balance and tongue weight with varying loads.
Also there is a good reason for cambering the wheels inward like the bushtec as most of the weight will be on the outside wheel in turns as the g force shifts laterally.

Final thought is that the front looks like it is going to be flat and will cause a lot of drag. If you put some sort of a rounded nose cone on the front and tapered the back it would tow better at speed.

If I had the tools to roll the corners, I would do that. I got a tubing bender, but the isn't working too well yet. I am going to attach the sheet metal with rivets, so I can make that modification at a later date. The trailer is the same width of the bike with the saddle bags, so I think it won't have too much drag. I will know once I can tow it to see.

As far as having an adjustable side for the axle, that is an engineering thing that I will have to give thought to for a future build should I do another after this. The easiest way to handle balance will be how the trailer is loaded. My priority for this build is to get the heavy weighted items over the axles and not have it at the ends like my Bushtec does. with that accomplished, it will be a lot easier to adjust the tongue weight to get it proper by adjusting the internal loading.

Great idea, but it will need a lot of thought and engineering to make it work.

 

[Panman]

Looking forward to seeing this on Saturday, I'm looking at putting brakes on the Bushtec next year when I throw in the towel. Have you considered any kind of brakes?

 

[eflyguy]

Sliding the axle wouldn't work with this design because the wheels are "inboard". Wouldn't be too hard with outboard wheels with fenders, but then you're losing volume. I agree - just a little bit of thought during loading can solve that problem.

I really want to make me one of these.

 

[Auburn]

Looking forward to seeing this on Saturday, I'm looking at putting brakes on the Bushtec next year when I throw in the towel. Have you considered any kind of brakes?

We'll have to figure something out, probably have to be a retrofit for this one.

 

[ChrisCo]

Also learned I need to allow a little more length for the shrinkage caused by internal 90 degree bend. I was about an 1/8" short of where I wanted, but not enough to have to remake the piece.

I've got a bad habit of doing that with tube. It annoys the crap out of me when I do that. Just curious - What kind of tube bender do you have?

Are you doing any kind of seam seal under the skit (to keep the moisture out)?

 

[Auburn]

Spent the day working on finishing the lid and getting it assembled as a roller. Sitting about 2" below ride height when loaded. The shocks only have 15 lbs of air. The lid won't stay down without more weight. The center rectangle is for the garment bag to hang off of from my Bushtec.

The trailer in current form weighs 150 lbs. I have about 30 lbs more that will go on it in sheet metal. I little over what I was shooting for, but not worth the cost difference to use aluminum.

 

[Panman]

Are the wheels going the right direction? They look backwards.

Can you set the Bushtec next to it for perspective?

 

[Auburn]

Are the wheels going the right direction? They look backwards.

Can you set the Bushtec next to it for perspective?

The wheels are on correctly, they are not uni-directional. I'll try when it is dry to set the two next to each other again.

 

[Auburn]

One thing i realized that I will need to do is make a sway bar since tne air shocks are plumbed together. I am thinking a 7/16" round bar and bend it to fit the application. What I don't know is what kind of steel and temper to get.

If someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

 

[FJRay]

I have the original sway bar off my spyder and your welcome to it. It has mounts and connector links. If they ever let me out of the hospital I can measure it up and send pictures.

 

[Auburn]

I have the original sway bar off my spyder and your welcome to it. It has mounts and connector links. If they ever let me out of the hospital I can measure it up and send pictures.

Very cool. Hope the surgery is going well for you.