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chrisflock

FJR nose gunner
Joined
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Location
La Crosse, WI
My wife is applying for some more 'edukashun' and if it happens...well, there probably won't be time or money for any long trips. For 4 years.

That means if I want to make a trip out west, it will have to be this summer. So my tentative plan is to go to Yellowstone. I'm looking for tips and tricks.

A couple of things:

1) I won't have much time for this trip. I can probably burn 5 or 6 days vacation days on this trip, and that has caused me to starting (or finishing) this trip on a holiday weekend. I've been weighing the pros and cons on this, as I'm afraid that campgrounds and national parks will be extremely busy on Memorial Day or July 4th, but perhaps if we are just 'on the road' for the holiday (not actually at a tourist-overrun destination) it would be survivable.

2) We won't have much money for this trip. I would love to stay in a nice hotel every night, but we're just not going to be buying $100 hotel rooms every night. Seedy hotels are more likely. Camping even more likely. Camping in places that don't charge would be even better, if possible.

So, does anyone have any tips? For that matter, I know that I got some great suggestions for a trip down to the Ozarks last year from some of you guys. I've considered doing that this summer as a possibility as well, so if someone has tips for someplace to go on a 7-10 day trip, let me know.

 
Yellowstone is my favorite National Park. You can see it all in a couple days or you can enjoy a week or more there without getting bored. Camping there is excellent fun. You should reserve well in advance to ensure you get a campsite in the park. They do have a campground that doesn't require reservations, but it fills up early.

From Wisconsin I recommend you head towards Billings, Montana and ride down Beartooth Pass and enter the park from the north. You can buy fuel in the park, but the price is high so fill up in Billings.

If you go out the south end of Yellowstone you'll find yourself in the Grand Tetons, which are worth the visit even if all you have time for is to ride through and look.

 
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Jenny Lake campground in the Tetons is amazing and usually out of the way enough to avoid the crowds in Jellystone but still within range for daily visits.

I'd take in Glacier national park while you are out there.. less crowds and much more in terms of scenic beauty.

 
Day 1 Blast out to Wall, SD...sleep. Get ready for some fun.

Day 2 Black Hills and Custer state park

Day 3 Devil's Tower, Big Horns and Chief Joseph Hwy to Cooke City

Day 4 Go over Beartooth Pass north . Go over Beartooth Pass south. Head west to Mammoth, WY, then south on the west side of the park to campground. Ride more within the campground visting the features.

Day 5 Do a loop of Yellowstone seeing all the features

Day 6 Rinse and repeat

Day 7 Head out the east entrance to Cody, head north, do Chief Joseph Hwy again and Beartooth Pass again noth into Montana.

Day 8 Head home...

Day 9 Get home...and start ride report from some of the most beautiful area you've ridden in.

Edit: I would revise my itinerary to definitely exit south to the Tetons...

 
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My wife is applying for some more 'edukashun' and if it happens...well, there probably won't be time or money for any long trips. For 4 years.

That means if I want to make a trip out west, it will have to be this summer. So my tentative plan is to go to Yellowstone. I'm looking for tips and tricks.

A couple of things:

1) I won't have much time for this trip. I can probably burn 5 or 6 days vacation days on this trip, and that has caused me to starting (or finishing) this trip on a holiday weekend. I've been weighing the pros and cons on this, as I'm afraid that campgrounds and national parks will be extremely busy on Memorial Day or July 4th, but perhaps if we are just 'on the road' for the holiday (not actually at a tourist-overrun destination) it would be survivable.

2) We won't have much money for this trip. I would love to stay in a nice hotel every night, but we're just not going to be buying $100 hotel rooms every night. Seedy hotels are more likely. Camping even more likely. Camping in places that don't charge would be even better, if possible.

So, does anyone have any tips? For that matter, I know that I got some great suggestions for a trip down to the Ozarks last year from some of you guys. I've considered doing that this summer as a possibility as well, so if someone has tips for someplace to go on a 7-10 day trip, let me know.
Get your reservations now if you want to camp in the park. The KOA just outside the west entrance is pretty good too.

 
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I've camped in Yellowstone twice--off season both times, and never had a problem getting a site without reservations (you DO have to get to the booth at each campsite pretty early in the day). I'm not completely sure, but I'm fairly sure at least some of the campgrounds in the park do NOT take reservations. Not that you shouldn't at least TRY to get them, mind you.

And by the way, make sure the holiday weekend is at the END of your trip while you're heading home, not at the beginning. Camping is THE way to experience Yellowstone, too, IMNSHO. Somebody--I think here on the forum--once said something like "I can't recall the last three motel rooms where I slept, but I'll never forget a single campsite I ever stayed in." By the way, one of my off-season stays there (3 nights, I think) was the week before Memorial Day. Park was almost empty, and that's only 4 years ago. Amazing what a difference going past that date makes.

Be ready for weird weather whenever you go. First time there, my nose and forehead were still peeling badly from sunburn while I froze my butt off in COLD rain and then below freezing temps for the next few days. This year (mid-September) it was cold, rainy, and overcast, then sunny and nice. I'd try to devote as much time to the park as possible if I were you, since it's your end destination. There's SO much to see there. More advice: stop in and see EVERY attraction where you see a sign inside the park. They're mostly out of sight from the road, but only a short bit up a little road or driveway and sometimes a short walk. All kinds of pools, geysers, "mud volcanoes," waterfalls, and on and on. All well worth seeing.

Good places to eat inside the park. You should treat yourself to at least one dinner at the Old Faithful Inn. There'll be a line, but worth it. Across the parking lot is the Old Faithful Lodge, which is much cheaper. You can rent a "budget cabin" for $67 a night, per their website. If you camp, you can shower in their communal shower (the cabins don't have a bathroom. Everybody goes to the central bathroom/shower.) Don't get too excited about the "communal showers," either. They still keep the two sexes segregated. :angry2:

Fun place to ride a bike, though. Watch out for those NPS LEOs, though. They seem to love their speeding enforcement power. Don't hit a buffalo, either. . . And have a great trip.

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If camping, I second getting reservations. I pulled into Yellowstone last June on a weekday in the evening. I figured it was early season and being mid week, shouldn't have a problem getting a campsite. The lady at the gate looked at me like my head was on fire when I asked if any campsites were available in the park... "No way." I ended up going back out of the park and found a Forest Service campsite. Next day made a bee line for a park campsite. I found one, but by 10am they were all full again. I've since heard 2010 was a record year for attendance in the park. Who knew?

Also, some of the campsites are remote, like 20 miles to any kind of store, so be prepared.

 
Here's my two cents Google Map

Get off I-90 at Rapid City and take a spin through the Black Hills with a possible stop at Mt Rushmore. Head back to to I-90 up to Ranchester and WY-14 up and over the Big Horns. You can take 14 all the way to Cody or divert in the Big Horns on 14-Alt through Lovell. I like 14-Alt but that's a bit longer. Up the Chief Joseph Hwy to Bear Tooth and down to Red Lodge. Repeat back to Cody, if it's fun once it'll be twice as fun twice :yahoo: You can enter through Cooke City and that's a nice enough drive but the East entrance from Cody is the nicest for my money. Between Cody and the East entrance is Buffalo Bill State Park that might make a good base to ride from to explore Yellowstone and Cody.

On the way back you could head south to Grand Teton Nat Park and Jackson. Then take US-26/287 through the Togwatee Pass to Riverton then north along the Wind River to Worland where you pick up US-16 back across the Big Horns to I-90.

 
I rode cross country this summer, leaving California on June 28 and passing through the Tetons and Yellowstone on June 30. Yes, right before the fourth of July. First, Yellowstone was in peak season, but Beartooth Pass and Chief Joseph Highways had just opened, and had lots of snow on the berms. Second, you have to anticipate traffic jams that go for miles. Traffic will stop for a damn buffalo, bear, moose, elk, and of course CONSTRUCTION. I used my California lane splitting technique a lot to get through the park. Also, bison don't care for motorcycles, especially in spring when their calves are nearby, and you are the smallest target on the road after they have been harrassed by cars and monster RVs. When passing, unavoidably close, I used a car or RV as a shield.

On the road, if nothing else pass through the Black Hills. The Needles Hwy is especially nice. Also recommend US14A through the Big Horn range in Wyoming, and that puts you in position to go to Red Lodge MT to pick up the Beartooth Pass, or head south to Cody. Much better than I-90. Have fun.

Tetons

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Steam

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Beartooth Pass

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Awesome turns

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From Wisconsin I recommend you head towards Billings, Montana and ride down Beartooth Pass and enter the park from the north. You can buy fuel in the park, but the price is high so fill up in Billings.
Hitting the Park after Memorial Day would be a good plan, although you could get bitten by the weather.

I'd alter Geezer's plan to:

Cross the Beartooth (which is spectacular but not much fun riding) and then go down to Cody along the Chief Joseph Highway -- Sunlight Basis Road. Absolutely spectacular and fantastic riding. Then go in the Park via the East entrance.

 
...and WY-14 up and over the Big Horns. You can take 14 all the way to Cody or divert in the Big Horns on 14-Alt through Lovell. I like 14-Alt but that's a bit longer...
Definitely do 14 ALT.

Get this ride in as they're already changing/straightening 14 (one of the area's nice mcy roads). Get it in while you can...then again, it may already be too late...

 
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Here's my two cents Google Map

Get off I-90 at Rapid City and take a spin through the Black Hills with a possible stop at Mt Rushmore. Head back to to I-90 up to Ranchester and WY-14 up and over the Big Horns. You can take 14 all the way to Cody or divert in the Big Horns on 14-Alt through Lovell. I like 14-Alt but that's a bit longer. Up the Chief Joseph Hwy to Bear Tooth and down to Red Lodge. Repeat back to Cody, if it's fun once it'll be twice as fun twice :yahoo: You can enter through Cooke City and that's a nice enough drive but the East entrance from Cody is the nicest for my money. Between Cody and the East entrance is Buffalo Bill State Park that might make a good base to ride from to explore Yellowstone and Cody.

On the way back you could head south to Grand Teton Nat Park and Jackson. Then take US-26/287 through the Togwatee Pass to Riverton then north along the Wind River to Worland where you pick up US-16 back across the Big Horns to I-90.
This is a great Route Rick sent me on it a few years ago :yahoo: Watch the wind by Warren it can down right brutal!!

 
If you want to spend a night in West Yellowstone, MT I'd recommend the "City Center Motel" where a room can be had in the summer for about $75, compared to 200 or so for most of the "name brand" hotels. It's a nice clean basic hotel with good parking for bikes.

City Center Motel

214 Madison Avenue

West Yellowstone, MT 59758

(800) 742-0665

 
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Got to add a couple more thoughts. This September, leaving the Park and heading south past the Tetons, we suffered through a VERY long stretch at the 35 mph limit--all the way out of the park and continuing all the way past the Tetons, since the parks are adjoining. Must have been 50 miles. And they DO enforce. Plus miles of it, IIRC, were two lane, no passing, and LOTS of big slow campers. ugh.

The other thing is, it's not just Memorial Day weekend that the park fills up. It's from Memorial Day ON. You really don't want to be there either during or after M.D. if you can help it.

Edited to add: looking through the thread, somebody mentioned Glacier before, and Sam did again, just below this. You know there's only one road that really goes through the park ("Going to the Sun Road"), and it never opens up till sometime around the 4th of July, right? You can go around the park, outside of it, but the spectacular part is that GTTS road. Would be a shame to go there when you can't see that. OTOH, if you go north, outside the park, from St. Mary (at the east park entrance) and go back a few miles, you'll come to "Many Glacier Road" that leads you to the back entrance of the park. To me, "Many Glacier" was the most gorgeous place in the whole park. Don't miss it if you go.

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I am in the same boat. Planning a trip to Grand Tetons, Yellowstone and Glacier from California in 2011. I have just started the planning phase and am still trying to figure out where to look for beginngers. I will keep an eye on this thread for more ideas.
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Here is Jenny Lake Campground a short distance from the south entrace to Yellowstone.

no noisy generators or families that have never been outside of the city limits for the first time..

The campground sits right below and across Jenny lake from the Grand Teton mountain.. tallest in the Teton park

Some use it as a starting point to climb in the Tetons...

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from the campground in the winter

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Another thought on camping in the Teton/Yellowstone area...Colter Bay campground in Teton National park.It's more north so it's closer to Yellowstone,and they let you camp on the hiker/biker loop,at least they did in '08, so the cost was only $5.00/night.Everything you need is at the marina,a 1 mile walk/ride away.

A shot of the marina...

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