Recent content by Biquer

Any tips on putting the cover back on a Gen 3? Get everything out of your way for maximum access, including the throttle cables and any wiring loom parts. I usually try to keep it as low and flat as possible on the approach and tilt slightly up on the left and slightly higher at the front. My...

No argument here, the Alps is the one to beat! I use an SW Motech ION with tank ring for short stuff and an RKA expandable for long stuff.

I had an electrical short due to corrosion in the wiring above the engine on my 2105 ES resulting in a low voltage situation. This resulted in code#44 on the dash and no suspension adjustment. I researched this and found that some people have never got this resolved, probably because of...

Yes they have the same plastic caps, I just removed them to take a better picture. I cleaned them and protected them, I'm confident they'll be fine. The 3 in the photo were just above and behind the metal coolant pipe into the head. I'm still scratching my head about the gap above the radiator!

My 2015 with under 90,000 miles threw up an Error code number 89, which is a loss of comms between the dash and the ECU. When I went into the Diagnostics the ECU was not there. The bike could run, the dash was powered/illuminated, but there was no speedo or any other data and the rhs screen only...

Thanks for that.

Many thanks, you are right. So the reality is that these can be treated as vents.

Thanks, I'm aware of those. Its the ones at the bottom of the drawing I'm interested in, in the box marked 'FOR CAL'. They are on European models too. They appear to be something to do with emissions? You can see the 2 hoses going onto the jointer numbered 24, there is a hose that goes from the...

There appears to be an extra hose from each throttle body from 2016 on. they join via 2 T pieces with 1 hose coming off each pair. Can anyone tell me where the 2 hoses go? It seems as if there's 1 hose exiting from each side of the throttle bodies.

That pricing does not reflect the pricing from Yamaha in Europe. The gen 2 & 3 radiators are both $870, if it was $300 it would have been a no-brainer.

The radiator and expansion bottle were full before the rally and I was checking the bike every day, there were no drips. During the rally I was moving fast and in 30-40°C temps, I didn't see any drips, I think the heat and air movement was evaporating whatever was leaking. The first I knew of...

Exact same place as mine, I've seen about 5 others and know of another 3, seems to be a manufacturing flaw, but it must be a rare enough occurrence. You've shamed me with that photo, mine looks like scrap compared to that. Yes I do all my own work. It was a lot of hours but I did a lot of other...

Yes its running fine. You are of course correct re the cost of a repair and I have bought an 11,000 mile 2015 engine for $600 as well, it is future insurance for both my 2015 and 2008 FJRs. However I wanted to see if I could repair the original engine, it failed on me on the last day of the Iron...

I plugged my multimeter into the cam sensor coupling and got the expected 4.9v signal voltage. I rotated the engine through a couple of cycles and the voltage dropped to 0 also as expected as the ring on the cam lined up with the sensor. That cleared the fault. It makes no sense to me but that's...

I'm thinking it might still be the cam position sensor as it was in previous versions? Any tips for testing it?